AndyB or someone with audioLink ALT. NOISE!!
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From: Duluth, MN
AndyB or someone with audioLink ALT. NOISE!!
What were your settings?
I have the BOSE HU -> PD4 LOC -> Shielded RCAs - > Alpine MRV-F450 AMP -> Infinity 62.5I Speakers.
I have horrible alternator noise in the system. First, with car off I have a slight "white noise" when volume is at 0. When I turn on the car I get the nice alternator noise (high pitch increases with engine RPM).
http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html
I went here and started in on the steps to elliminate. With the RCAs unplugged from PD4 I have no noise at all. If I put my thumb to the center pole of the RCA I hear the "white noise".
I am running the RCAs straight back from the PD4 through the center consol to the AMP. They were a little long, so they are looped together away from the power line. I have a single 4 AWG power line coming from the battery through the firewall on the passenger side along that door edge into the glove compartment to the AMP. The closest the RCAs and Power cable get to each other is right there at the glove box. They both come in at the little opening in the upper right.
What wires/colours have you going into the PD4 from the Wire harness? If you don't remember or whatnot that's ok, don't go out of your way.
I have double checked all the wires to make sure no speaker wires are contacting anything. I only have the rears in right now, with the driver speaker completely out and the pass. front still stock.
I am thinking either:
1) I haven't grounded the AMP very well or
2) Somehow noise is coming from PD4
Any thoughts or suggestions?
I have the BOSE HU -> PD4 LOC -> Shielded RCAs - > Alpine MRV-F450 AMP -> Infinity 62.5I Speakers.
I have horrible alternator noise in the system. First, with car off I have a slight "white noise" when volume is at 0. When I turn on the car I get the nice alternator noise (high pitch increases with engine RPM).
http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html
I went here and started in on the steps to elliminate. With the RCAs unplugged from PD4 I have no noise at all. If I put my thumb to the center pole of the RCA I hear the "white noise".
I am running the RCAs straight back from the PD4 through the center consol to the AMP. They were a little long, so they are looped together away from the power line. I have a single 4 AWG power line coming from the battery through the firewall on the passenger side along that door edge into the glove compartment to the AMP. The closest the RCAs and Power cable get to each other is right there at the glove box. They both come in at the little opening in the upper right.
What wires/colours have you going into the PD4 from the Wire harness? If you don't remember or whatnot that's ok, don't go out of your way.
I have double checked all the wires to make sure no speaker wires are contacting anything. I only have the rears in right now, with the driver speaker completely out and the pass. front still stock.
I am thinking either:
1) I haven't grounded the AMP very well or
2) Somehow noise is coming from PD4
Any thoughts or suggestions?
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From: Connecticut
Noise
Wow, sorry to hear about the problem.
My setup is a lot like yours. I have the PD-4 behind the HU, RCAs down the middle, power down the passenger side, and I have virtually no noise at zero volume.
I am not a stereo setup expert, but I do have a few ideas on what you can try. . .
Is the PD-4 right up front? One thing the AudioLink guy told me on the phone was to put it as close as possible to the HU. That is why the audiolink cable is so short.
Second, check your grounds. A poor ground is the #1 cause of noise in my experience. Make sure the grounds go to solid metal surfaces that are part of the body. If they are painted you need to sand off the paint to get good contact. (if you have any doubts, check the resistance from your ground wire to some other obvious ground points.)
As for level setting, you want to run the output of the PD-4 fairly high, and turn down the input gain on the amp. The more gain you use on the amp the more noise you get since it also amplifies the noise.
I would start by turning the gain on the amp down to the minimum, and the volume on the HU to max. Then increase the output level of the PD-4 until you hear slight distortion, then back off some.
Lastly, you might want to ring out your RCA with an ohm meter. If one of the cables is defective (like if the ground is broken/weak) it could cause noise.
Good luck.
My setup is a lot like yours. I have the PD-4 behind the HU, RCAs down the middle, power down the passenger side, and I have virtually no noise at zero volume.
I am not a stereo setup expert, but I do have a few ideas on what you can try. . .
Is the PD-4 right up front? One thing the AudioLink guy told me on the phone was to put it as close as possible to the HU. That is why the audiolink cable is so short.
Second, check your grounds. A poor ground is the #1 cause of noise in my experience. Make sure the grounds go to solid metal surfaces that are part of the body. If they are painted you need to sand off the paint to get good contact. (if you have any doubts, check the resistance from your ground wire to some other obvious ground points.)
As for level setting, you want to run the output of the PD-4 fairly high, and turn down the input gain on the amp. The more gain you use on the amp the more noise you get since it also amplifies the noise.
I would start by turning the gain on the amp down to the minimum, and the volume on the HU to max. Then increase the output level of the PD-4 until you hear slight distortion, then back off some.
Lastly, you might want to ring out your RCA with an ohm meter. If one of the cables is defective (like if the ground is broken/weak) it could cause noise.
Good luck.
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Thanks for the reply. I have been messing with it now for a few minutes. I have set the gain on the PD4 all the way up, and the gain on the AMP all the way down. This helps get rid of most of the white noise, but not the alternator noise.
Oh well. I will keep trying. I will relocate the ground next.
Oh well. I will keep trying. I will relocate the ground next.
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From: Connecticut
AndyB
That is weird, with the RCA unplugged from the front (but still attached to the amp) you have no alternator whine? Hmmmm.
Seems to me there are a few possibilities left, but they all seem like long shots.
You PD-4 could be bad. But it is working except for the noise. I recommend calling the AudioLink people. They were very helpfull when I had questions. They are a little hard to get on the phone (small operation) but if you leave a message and/or try a few times they will probably be willing to help.
Where is the PD-4 located? Most people are putting them flat behind the HU or behind/under the climate controls. I wouldn't expect the PD-4 to pick up much noise through the air. The case is solid metal and should be a good shield.
One last thing... try listening to the noise as you move thje PD-4 and the wires around it. Maybe something is working as an antenna and you can just move it out of the radio "hot spot" or something. (sort of the opposite of tuning in a radio.)
I know this must be driving you nuts. I really feel like my install was lucky. Not only was the guy who did it very skilled, but all the parts were working and played well together. I guess that doesn't always go that way.
Good luck.
Seems to me there are a few possibilities left, but they all seem like long shots.
You PD-4 could be bad. But it is working except for the noise. I recommend calling the AudioLink people. They were very helpfull when I had questions. They are a little hard to get on the phone (small operation) but if you leave a message and/or try a few times they will probably be willing to help.
Where is the PD-4 located? Most people are putting them flat behind the HU or behind/under the climate controls. I wouldn't expect the PD-4 to pick up much noise through the air. The case is solid metal and should be a good shield.
One last thing... try listening to the noise as you move thje PD-4 and the wires around it. Maybe something is working as an antenna and you can just move it out of the radio "hot spot" or something. (sort of the opposite of tuning in a radio.)
I know this must be driving you nuts. I really feel like my install was lucky. Not only was the guy who did it very skilled, but all the parts were working and played well together. I guess that doesn't always go that way.
Good luck.
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From: Connecticut
one more idea
Ok, sorry, one more idea.
Make sure the input gain on the PD-4 (on the input from the HU) is not too high.
You should be able to turn the radio volume up to full volume without distortion. (you can turn down the output of the PD-4 a little to be sure that any distortion you hear is from the input side)
If you get distortion from the input side at full volume you can turn down the input gain, which might help reduce sensitivity to noise.
Make sure the input gain on the PD-4 (on the input from the HU) is not too high.
You should be able to turn the radio volume up to full volume without distortion. (you can turn down the output of the PD-4 a little to be sure that any distortion you hear is from the input side)
If you get distortion from the input side at full volume you can turn down the input gain, which might help reduce sensitivity to noise.
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i have an idea that is kinda a long shot but is a possibility. Try this put everything back the way you had it when you had alot of white noise and turn the volume up so that the noise is clearly audible. Slowly bring the rpms up if the sound increases in pitch evenly and doesnt level out while the rpms are still rising you might have a bad/going bad coil pack on my accord i had a similar problem ( told the friends it was my special supercharger whistly
) and i never could figure it out till one day when i was doing a burn out the coil finally let go (Guess the motor moved to much and broke the coil compleatly)and it turned out the stem on the coil was broken and was letting interference out, after replacing that i had no noise at all. G/l hope this helps alittle. o yea one more idea go to radioshake get a 14-20volt capacitor with a decent rating (costs a dollar or 2) and connect it to the amp on the main power in it should help to reduce anyline ripple you get if its not something thats being picked up over the wires (ie electromagnetic interference)
) and i never could figure it out till one day when i was doing a burn out the coil finally let go (Guess the motor moved to much and broke the coil compleatly)and it turned out the stem on the coil was broken and was letting interference out, after replacing that i had no noise at all. G/l hope this helps alittle. o yea one more idea go to radioshake get a 14-20volt capacitor with a decent rating (costs a dollar or 2) and connect it to the amp on the main power in it should help to reduce anyline ripple you get if its not something thats being picked up over the wires (ie electromagnetic interference)
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Andy B I have a few questions if you dont mind. Im trying to figure out your setup. does it go like this after placing the pd4 and the $50.00 harness behind the head unit do the rca wires for the 4 6.5 speakers run down the center console to the glove compartment to the inputs on the alpine amp and then rca's leave through the outputs to the speaker locations in the rear and door speakers? Also the power for the amp is a heavy gauge rca wire that goes through the passenger side carpet and then through the firewall to the positive terminal on the battery. Also is the basslink as easy as one wire to the alpine amp stock location through to glove where amp is? One more thing Andy did you ground the amp in the glove with something called a block? I believe I saw 2 of them in a picture of your install. But my biggest question is still where do the speaker wires originate from the pd4 after its installed and work them to the amp and then to the speakers. Andy I have seen your install many a time I have all the pic. downloads of your install removal of all the panels,dash,console,front and rear firewall etc. from morpheus I am ready to do this just have some final questions. sorry for so long of a post.. Richard
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From: Connecticut
details:
Ok, I think you may be confused about RCAs. They are the wires with the plug ends that have an outer (ground) conductor and a core (signal) conductor. Typically they are smaller wires meant for low level signals, not for speakers or power leads.
Here is what I did:
Signal path:
The PD-4 is jammed behind the HU and attached with the AudioLink cable. That cable gave me 4 RCA outputs (4 channels) . I ran the 4 RCA outputs through shielded RCA cables to the 4 RCA "line in" inputs on the Alpine amp. (not the speaker level inputs)
On the Alpine amp there are 2 non-fading pre-amp outputs. I ran 2 short RCA cables from those outputs to the "line in" on the basslink.
The "amp on" signal from the PD-4 goes to both the Alpine amp and the Basslink. (although, oddly, it seems to be more of an "ignition" signal than a "radio on" signal.)
Power:
+12 is drawn directly from the battery via 4 AWG wire, fused at the battery. The 4AWG (fat) wire runs down the passenger side under the carpet to under the glove box. There it hits a distribution block that take the 4AWG in, splits it, and provides two 8AWG outputs, each with its own fuse. One 8AWG output goes to the amp, the other to the basslink.
(The fuse under the hood is 60 amps. The 2 fuses in the power distribution block are 30 amps. Safety was important to me. I didn't want an installation mistake to burn up my Z! )
The amp and basslink are each grounded to the body at a point near the component with 8AWG cable.
Speakers:
For speakers we ran 12 AWG x 2 "oxygen free speaker wire" from the speaker outputs on the alpine. No RCA here. You want a low impedance cable since these are long runs at high power levels. For my 55WRMS amp 12AWG is plenty. (probably overkill)
I hope I answered your questions.
AndyB
Here is what I did:
Signal path:
The PD-4 is jammed behind the HU and attached with the AudioLink cable. That cable gave me 4 RCA outputs (4 channels) . I ran the 4 RCA outputs through shielded RCA cables to the 4 RCA "line in" inputs on the Alpine amp. (not the speaker level inputs)
On the Alpine amp there are 2 non-fading pre-amp outputs. I ran 2 short RCA cables from those outputs to the "line in" on the basslink.
The "amp on" signal from the PD-4 goes to both the Alpine amp and the Basslink. (although, oddly, it seems to be more of an "ignition" signal than a "radio on" signal.)
Power:
+12 is drawn directly from the battery via 4 AWG wire, fused at the battery. The 4AWG (fat) wire runs down the passenger side under the carpet to under the glove box. There it hits a distribution block that take the 4AWG in, splits it, and provides two 8AWG outputs, each with its own fuse. One 8AWG output goes to the amp, the other to the basslink.
(The fuse under the hood is 60 amps. The 2 fuses in the power distribution block are 30 amps. Safety was important to me. I didn't want an installation mistake to burn up my Z! )
The amp and basslink are each grounded to the body at a point near the component with 8AWG cable.
Speakers:
For speakers we ran 12 AWG x 2 "oxygen free speaker wire" from the speaker outputs on the alpine. No RCA here. You want a low impedance cable since these are long runs at high power levels. For my 55WRMS amp 12AWG is plenty. (probably overkill)
I hope I answered your questions.
AndyB
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Andy I want to thank you very much. You really take your time to explain this process. Im going to download it as a reference.
I have just a few questions regarding your instructions. When you said regarding the "amp on " signal from the pd-4 goes to both the amp an the basslink is that on one cable that gets split or does the the pd-4 have a seperate output for each? Here is the link to better help explain. http://www.linkmeup.com/ this question would be under VIEW INSTALLATION INSTUCTIONS... Ok next qustion Andy looking at the pic of the pd-4 with the harness on the pd-4 homepage. On the left side where the cablelink harness is. Does that grey clip clip into the bose HU and then plugs into the pd-4 as in the pic and then the right side of the pd-4 which has for plugs two on top and two on bottom as does the left side of pd-4 is that where you said goes to the Alpine amp. If so thank you for helping me understand. Andy as far as your power section the question I have is regarding power distribution blocks I did research and since I am going with your setup since its what I 've been looking for would this product on this link work for me? Product #SFPD2(GOLD)-SFPD2PT(PLATINUM) a little bit past down the middle of the page. http://www.stingerelectronics.com/we...stribution.asp Andy and my last question which I am really lost on is about the 60amp fuse under the hood and the 2 fuses in the power distribution are 30amps. Could you please show me a link to a site that sells them ao a manufactor and I will take it from there... Once again Andy thank you very much for all your help. Your responce has been a great help understanding these few stumps on my side ........... again sorry for the long post
I have just a few questions regarding your instructions. When you said regarding the "amp on " signal from the pd-4 goes to both the amp an the basslink is that on one cable that gets split or does the the pd-4 have a seperate output for each? Here is the link to better help explain. http://www.linkmeup.com/ this question would be under VIEW INSTALLATION INSTUCTIONS... Ok next qustion Andy looking at the pic of the pd-4 with the harness on the pd-4 homepage. On the left side where the cablelink harness is. Does that grey clip clip into the bose HU and then plugs into the pd-4 as in the pic and then the right side of the pd-4 which has for plugs two on top and two on bottom as does the left side of pd-4 is that where you said goes to the Alpine amp. If so thank you for helping me understand. Andy as far as your power section the question I have is regarding power distribution blocks I did research and since I am going with your setup since its what I 've been looking for would this product on this link work for me? Product #SFPD2(GOLD)-SFPD2PT(PLATINUM) a little bit past down the middle of the page. http://www.stingerelectronics.com/we...stribution.asp Andy and my last question which I am really lost on is about the 60amp fuse under the hood and the 2 fuses in the power distribution are 30amps. Could you please show me a link to a site that sells them ao a manufactor and I will take it from there... Once again Andy thank you very much for all your help. Your responce has been a great help understanding these few stumps on my side ........... again sorry for the long post
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Make sure you mount the PD-4 (hi-level converter) behind the radio. Mounting in the trunk may cause some serious interference. Anyone that has had one of these installed in GM knows what I am talking about. The magnet of your rear speakers can induce noise into that converter.
Also since you removed the RCA cables from the PD-4 and now have no noise, the cables, amp and amp connections are fine. The PD-4 is getting noise somehow. If this particular converter uses a ground, relocating this may help.
Also since you removed the RCA cables from the PD-4 and now have no noise, the cables, amp and amp connections are fine. The PD-4 is getting noise somehow. If this particular converter uses a ground, relocating this may help.
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From: Duluth, MN
Originally posted by knuguy
Make sure you mount the PD-4 (hi-level converter) behind the radio. Mounting in the trunk may cause some serious interference. Anyone that has had one of these installed in GM knows what I am talking about. The magnet of your rear speakers can induce noise into that converter.
Also since you removed the RCA cables from the PD-4 and now have no noise, the cables, amp and amp connections are fine. The PD-4 is getting noise somehow. If this particular converter uses a ground, relocating this may help.
Make sure you mount the PD-4 (hi-level converter) behind the radio. Mounting in the trunk may cause some serious interference. Anyone that has had one of these installed in GM knows what I am talking about. The magnet of your rear speakers can induce noise into that converter.
Also since you removed the RCA cables from the PD-4 and now have no noise, the cables, amp and amp connections are fine. The PD-4 is getting noise somehow. If this particular converter uses a ground, relocating this may help.
BTW, the PD4 is right behind/underneith the HU. I did not extend the wires at all. Also, my RCAs are not anywhere close to the power cable. RCAs down the middle away from all other cables I could see and straight back into the AMP. Power, along side the Passenger door.
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more
I'll try to answer a few, but this paragraph made me dizzy. 
You can split the amp on signal wherever you want. It makes the most sense to split it back by the amps.
The SFPD2 should be fine for power distribution.
For the 60 amps fuse and holders look on the same site. My holder holds AGU fuses, but you need to buy the fuses that go in whatever fuse holders / distribution blocks you buy.
AndyB
You can split the amp on signal wherever you want. It makes the most sense to split it back by the amps.
The SFPD2 should be fine for power distribution.
For the 60 amps fuse and holders look on the same site. My holder holds AGU fuses, but you need to buy the fuses that go in whatever fuse holders / distribution blocks you buy.
AndyB
Last edited by AndyB; May 9, 2004 at 07:08 PM.
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From: CO
Hot wire from battery to -> AMP has to be at least 18" from ANY speaker wire "runs". Or you will get noise. Obviously at the AMP its only a few inches apart.
I ran RCA's through the center console to the AMP.
I ran the Hot wire along the passanger side of the car to the AMP.
Maybe your issue is different though.
-TC
I ran RCA's through the center console to the AMP.
I ran the Hot wire along the passanger side of the car to the AMP.
Maybe your issue is different though.
-TC
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Originally posted by Th3Cleaner
Hot wire from battery to -> AMP has to be at least 18" from ANY speaker wire "runs". Or you will get noise. Obviously at the AMP its only a few inches apart.
-TC
Hot wire from battery to -> AMP has to be at least 18" from ANY speaker wire "runs". Or you will get noise. Obviously at the AMP its only a few inches apart.
-TC
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Well, I am chasing my tail on this one.
Still have noise. I tried adjusting all the inputs/outputs from the HU/PD4/AMP. I still have noise. I have been able to reduce it greatly, but... Now, I am pretty certain it's coming from either the HU or the PD4.
How 'bout this question. For those that replaced the factory BOSE equipment, did you take out the AMPS too? I haven't removed them yet. Could they be giving feedback?
I am looking to try and replace the PD4 with this:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/SCOFAI3
But don't want to spend more money on this. It's frustrating. My other option is to out the HU and PD4 and just get a nice new HU with preouts and all built in. Kind of defeats my goal of completely stock looking.
Still have noise. I tried adjusting all the inputs/outputs from the HU/PD4/AMP. I still have noise. I have been able to reduce it greatly, but... Now, I am pretty certain it's coming from either the HU or the PD4.
How 'bout this question. For those that replaced the factory BOSE equipment, did you take out the AMPS too? I haven't removed them yet. Could they be giving feedback?
I am looking to try and replace the PD4 with this:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/SCOFAI3
But don't want to spend more money on this. It's frustrating. My other option is to out the HU and PD4 and just get a nice new HU with preouts and all built in. Kind of defeats my goal of completely stock looking.
I think changing out the headunit is the only answer.
I just picked up my car today from my car stereo install.
I put MB Quart Components Premiums in the front and MB Quart Reference Components in the rear. With a W3v2 10inch JL Audio sub....the fronts and sub powered by a JL Audio 450/4 4 channel amp with the rears powered off the head unit.
I retained the stock touring Bose 6 cd changer head unit with a PD4 Audiolink............
And after all that money....it still sounds terrible....sure it sounds better than the stock setup, but in speaking with the guys who did the install, he said he tried to get it to sound better but he could not due to the poor Bose HU and PD4......so I want it done right......So I just purchased from ebay a brand new model 2004 Pioneer mp3 headunit.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EBWN%3AIT&rd=1
The install folks said I have some great equipment and if I want to fully utilize it to its full potential I have to replace the headunit....so as everyone said from the beginning scrap the Blose and go aftermarket...........you all are correct.
I think the only way the PD4/stock headunit combo is good for is if you do like AndyB and FrankMusic on 350zmotoring did....by installing a Basslink....
I will let you know how i make out.......keep me updated on your install as well..........good luck!
Ant
I just picked up my car today from my car stereo install.
I put MB Quart Components Premiums in the front and MB Quart Reference Components in the rear. With a W3v2 10inch JL Audio sub....the fronts and sub powered by a JL Audio 450/4 4 channel amp with the rears powered off the head unit.
I retained the stock touring Bose 6 cd changer head unit with a PD4 Audiolink............
And after all that money....it still sounds terrible....sure it sounds better than the stock setup, but in speaking with the guys who did the install, he said he tried to get it to sound better but he could not due to the poor Bose HU and PD4......so I want it done right......So I just purchased from ebay a brand new model 2004 Pioneer mp3 headunit.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EBWN%3AIT&rd=1
The install folks said I have some great equipment and if I want to fully utilize it to its full potential I have to replace the headunit....so as everyone said from the beginning scrap the Blose and go aftermarket...........you all are correct.
I think the only way the PD4/stock headunit combo is good for is if you do like AndyB and FrankMusic on 350zmotoring did....by installing a Basslink....
I will let you know how i make out.......keep me updated on your install as well..........good luck!
Ant
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Ok, so it turns out I'm not that bright.
I purchased the PD4 used off ebay and it came with the cable link. When i got the PD4 I noticed a couple of the wires were cut. I didn't really think much of it, I just figured it was the stock speaker cables, which I didn't worry about.
Turns out, after I actually looked at it today tearing everything out, that they were cut before getting the signal sent to the PD4, so I had no rear speaker signal wires, just grounds. How in the world anything got through is beyond me. A quick fix reassembly and it's golden.
Turned the gain on the PD4 all the way down, and upped the AMP and it's sweet. I have no noise at all now.
BTW, it is really great sounding. I haven't put in the 10" sub yet. Waiting to make a custom box, but the 4 62.5is sound awesome.
My next step is to put in the sub (probably going to start making the box this week).
Eventually, I'll replace the HU, but I really really like the stock look, so the aftermarket HU needs to be as stock looking as possible.
Thanks all for the help.
Oh, as a side note, while searching for the noise I completely ungrounded my amp, but it made no difference in noise at all. Kind of funny really.
I purchased the PD4 used off ebay and it came with the cable link. When i got the PD4 I noticed a couple of the wires were cut. I didn't really think much of it, I just figured it was the stock speaker cables, which I didn't worry about.
Turns out, after I actually looked at it today tearing everything out, that they were cut before getting the signal sent to the PD4, so I had no rear speaker signal wires, just grounds. How in the world anything got through is beyond me. A quick fix reassembly and it's golden.
Turned the gain on the PD4 all the way down, and upped the AMP and it's sweet. I have no noise at all now.
BTW, it is really great sounding. I haven't put in the 10" sub yet. Waiting to make a custom box, but the 4 62.5is sound awesome.
My next step is to put in the sub (probably going to start making the box this week).
Eventually, I'll replace the HU, but I really really like the stock look, so the aftermarket HU needs to be as stock looking as possible.
Thanks all for the help.
Oh, as a side note, while searching for the noise I completely ungrounded my amp, but it made no difference in noise at all. Kind of funny really.
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