Any OBD software that lets me reset tire pressure sensors?
09-23-2004 | 08:30 AM
#1
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Any OBD software that lets me reset tire pressure sensors?
(I posted this in the Wheels forum, and didn't get any response, so I thought someone here might know about this.)
I just bought an extra set of Track wheels with the stock tire pressure sensors. I plan to use my existing wheels for track events (I already have RA-1s on them), and the new set for daily street use.
I'd like to be able to reset the sensors when I switch wheels, so that the Tire Pressure Monitor system will work with both sets. But according to the service manual, you need a $250 resetting tool (which I could manage) and the Nissan Consult-II OBD reader/controller, which costs about $7,000 (which I can't afford).
So does anyone know if there are any OBD software packages for PC (or Pocket PC) that have the functionality of being able to re-initialize the TPM system?
(BTW, yes, I know I can take it to the dealership, but I'd rather not have to take the time and money every time I feel like switching wheels. Also, if I end up getting a tire trailer, I'd want to be able to reset at the track.)
Thanks.
I just bought an extra set of Track wheels with the stock tire pressure sensors. I plan to use my existing wheels for track events (I already have RA-1s on them), and the new set for daily street use.
I'd like to be able to reset the sensors when I switch wheels, so that the Tire Pressure Monitor system will work with both sets. But according to the service manual, you need a $250 resetting tool (which I could manage) and the Nissan Consult-II OBD reader/controller, which costs about $7,000 (which I can't afford).
So does anyone know if there are any OBD software packages for PC (or Pocket PC) that have the functionality of being able to re-initialize the TPM system?
(BTW, yes, I know I can take it to the dealership, but I'd rather not have to take the time and money every time I feel like switching wheels. Also, if I end up getting a tire trailer, I'd want to be able to reset at the track.)
Thanks.
09-23-2004 | 09:00 AM
#2
According to the Z service manual, you only need the "resetting tool" to reset the ID # on the TPSes in each wheel. It seems as though once you got them done they should be fine from that point on. How about mounting the other set of wheels and take it to the dealer and get them reset. As long as you mount them in the same position each time you should be okay.
09-23-2004 | 01:27 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions, but I don't think it's that simple. Here's what the manual says:
So you have to use the Consult-II to put the car's network in the mode to receive the ID codes from the wheel transmitters. (BTW, further on there's a method of doing it without the $250 activation tool, just by setting each wheel at a different specific pressure, but you still need to be in the ID registration mode.)
There's no indication that the system will just automatically recognize the transmitters. If so, they wouldn't bother to tell you to use the Consult-II. And there's also no reason to think that the car could remember two sets of IDs since 99.9% of owners won't have two sets of wheels.
So to restate the question, does anyone know of an OBD reader or software package that has the ID registration functionality? Alternatively, do you know where one could find the software codes the Consult-II uses to go into that mode?
Thanks.
ID Registration Procedure
ID REGISTRATION WITH TRANSMITTER ACTIVATION TOOL
1. Turn ignition switch "OFF".
2. Connect CONSULT-II and CONSULT-II CONVERTER to data link connector.
3. Touch “AIR PRESSURE MONITOR”, “WORK SUPPORT” and “ID REGIST”.
4. With the transmitter activation tool (J-45295) pushed against the front-left transmitter, press the button then keep 5 seconds.
5. Register the IDs in order from FR LH, FR RH, RR RH or RR LH. When ID registration of each wheel has been completed, a buzzer sounds and hazard warning lamp blinks.
ID REGISTRATION WITH TRANSMITTER ACTIVATION TOOL
1. Turn ignition switch "OFF".
2. Connect CONSULT-II and CONSULT-II CONVERTER to data link connector.
3. Touch “AIR PRESSURE MONITOR”, “WORK SUPPORT” and “ID REGIST”.
4. With the transmitter activation tool (J-45295) pushed against the front-left transmitter, press the button then keep 5 seconds.
5. Register the IDs in order from FR LH, FR RH, RR RH or RR LH. When ID registration of each wheel has been completed, a buzzer sounds and hazard warning lamp blinks.
There's no indication that the system will just automatically recognize the transmitters. If so, they wouldn't bother to tell you to use the Consult-II. And there's also no reason to think that the car could remember two sets of IDs since 99.9% of owners won't have two sets of wheels.
So to restate the question, does anyone know of an OBD reader or software package that has the ID registration functionality? Alternatively, do you know where one could find the software codes the Consult-II uses to go into that mode?
Thanks.
09-23-2004 | 01:48 PM
#5
TPS is not a standard OBD function - it is Consult specific.
What ares and I were trying to say is that you need to get the dealer to set the ID's of your second set of tires to match the first set. IE, FL=0, FR=1, RL=2, RR=3. That way they would be interchangable.
I believe most people that use a second set of tires for the track, etc. don't even bother with the TPS.
What ares and I were trying to say is that you need to get the dealer to set the ID's of your second set of tires to match the first set. IE, FL=0, FR=1, RL=2, RR=3. That way they would be interchangable.
I believe most people that use a second set of tires for the track, etc. don't even bother with the TPS.
09-23-2004 | 02:33 PM
#6
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What ares and I were trying to say is that you need to get the dealer to set the ID's of your second set of tires to match the first set. IE, FL=0, FR=1, RL=2, RR=3. That way they would be interchangable.
I believe most people that use a second set of tires for the track, etc. don't even bother with the TPS.
The possibility of having TPS on street and on track is one of the reasons I bought an extra set of Track wheels, instead of going aftermarket. (I also happen to like the stock look better than most aftermarket wheels.) If I can't find a way to reset them myself, I'll keep the transmitters for the track wheels registered and do without TPS on the street.
TPS is not a standard OBD function - it is Consult specific.
One of those options is what I'm (still) hoping to find.
09-23-2004 | 03:11 PM
#7
Originally posted by DavesZ#3
What ares and I were trying to say is that you need to get the dealer to set the ID's of your second set of tires to match the first set. IE, FL=0, FR=1, RL=2, RR=3. That way they would be interchangable.
I believe most people that use a second set of tires for the track, etc. don't even bother with the TPS.
What ares and I were trying to say is that you need to get the dealer to set the ID's of your second set of tires to match the first set. IE, FL=0, FR=1, RL=2, RR=3. That way they would be interchangable.
I believe most people that use a second set of tires for the track, etc. don't even bother with the TPS.
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09-23-2004 | 03:56 PM
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ChinaClipper: Thanks for your comments. So far, my TPS readings have agreed pretty well with my handheld gauge. Are you sure when you've seen a difference that it wasn't a matter of the tires cooling off as you went around the car to each wheel?
Also, just to be persnickety, when one system gives you one reading and other gives a different one, how can you tell which is right, unless you have a laboratory standard against which to compare both? If both are consistent, you can't be sure that the handheld is more accurate.
Even granting that TPS may be less accurate than a good handheld in absolute terms, as long as the units are self-consistent, I can use the readings effectively to make adjustments based on on-track performance. It doesn't matter if TPS says 39 and the handheld says 41 as long as I can use the fact that keeping the readings at 39 gives me better handling. The system also shows variations between the tires, which is useful, and provides data while you're on track. You can't do that with your handheld gauge!
In any case, plus or minus one pound is certainly an acceptable margin of error for my purposes. I'm not running in Formula 1, after all. It may not be perfect, but IMO it's useful.
I'd be with you in discounting the TPS if you said that you had seen four different readings from the handheld when TPS showed all four tires at the same pressure, or if a TPS sometimes read higher than the handheld and sometimes lower. But I haven't seen anything like that.
So, do you have some kind of "in" with them? Anything that might help me?
Also, just to be persnickety, when one system gives you one reading and other gives a different one, how can you tell which is right, unless you have a laboratory standard against which to compare both? If both are consistent, you can't be sure that the handheld is more accurate.
Even granting that TPS may be less accurate than a good handheld in absolute terms, as long as the units are self-consistent, I can use the readings effectively to make adjustments based on on-track performance. It doesn't matter if TPS says 39 and the handheld says 41 as long as I can use the fact that keeping the readings at 39 gives me better handling. The system also shows variations between the tires, which is useful, and provides data while you're on track. You can't do that with your handheld gauge!
In any case, plus or minus one pound is certainly an acceptable margin of error for my purposes. I'm not running in Formula 1, after all. It may not be perfect, but IMO it's useful.
I'd be with you in discounting the TPS if you said that you had seen four different readings from the handheld when TPS showed all four tires at the same pressure, or if a TPS sometimes read higher than the handheld and sometimes lower. But I haven't seen anything like that.
(I have verified this with the OEM TPS manufacturer for Nissan.)
09-23-2004 | 04:57 PM
#9
the joys of TPS
Originally posted by commasense
ChinaClipper: Thanks for your comments. So far, my TPS readings have agreed pretty well with my handheld gauge. Are you sure when you've seen a difference that it wasn't a matter of the tires cooling off as you went around the car to each wheel?
ChinaClipper: Thanks for your comments. So far, my TPS readings have agreed pretty well with my handheld gauge. Are you sure when you've seen a difference that it wasn't a matter of the tires cooling off as you went around the car to each wheel?
Also, just to be persnickety, when one system gives you one reading and other gives a different one, how can you tell which is right, unless you have a laboratory standard against which to compare both? If both are consistent, you can't be sure that the handheld is more accurate.
Even granting that TPS may be less accurate than a good handheld in absolute terms, as long as the units are self-consistent, I can use the readings effectively to make adjustments based on on-track performance. It doesn't matter if TPS says 39 and the handheld says 41 as long as I can use the fact that keeping the readings at 39 gives me better handling. The system also shows variations between the tires, which is useful, and provides data while you're on track. You can't do that with your handheld gauge!
In any case, plus or minus one pound is certainly an acceptable margin of error for my purposes. I'm not running in Formula 1, after all. It may not be perfect, but IMO it's useful.
I'd be with you in discounting the TPS if you said that you had seen four different readings from the handheld when TPS showed all four tires at the same pressure, or if a TPS sometimes read higher than the handheld and sometimes lower. But I haven't seen anything like that.
So, do you have some kind of "in" with them? Anything that might help me?
Good luck and HTH!
09-30-2004 | 01:08 PM
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ChinaClipper was right. The folks at Schrader have sent a detailed and helpful reply to my questions. Here's what I just got from them:
So the bad news for me is that I will probably have to go to the dealer to have my sensors reset. But since Mr. Huber has been so helpful, I may try to pry a little more detail out of him about why the Consult tool is necessary.
And ChinaClipper, it looks like your problems aren't because of the batteries. They should be good for another eight years.
Mr. Hyder,
You inquired about the tire pressure sensors on the 350Z. I will try to answer your questions as best I can.
>>I've read the Nissan service manual and believe that each wheel sensor has a unique identifier code, and that in the initialization process the car's network learns which code is in each wheel. Is that right?
-This is true. Each sensor/transmitter sends its unique ID along with the tire pressure via radio frequency to an on-board receiver. If the receiver on the vehicle is properly programmed with the sensor id's from each rim, it will filter out any transmissions from nearby vehicles and monitor only those sensors that are fitted to the car.
>>There are two methods for recognizing the sensors, one that uses a transmitter ID tool. Is that using RFID technology? If not, how does the tool identify the sensors and "inform" the car's computer?
-The sensors use technology that is not quite the same as RFID. The tool used at dealerships activates the sensors with a low frequency signal. However, the sensors respond with a high frequency (315MHz) message that is decoded by the vehicle's receiver. With RFID, a single channel (low or high frequency) is used for bi-directional communication.
>>Is it possible to put the car in this registration mode without using the Consult-II device (which is hard for an ordinary owner to get)? Perhaps using a standard OBD-II reader device or software package, or with simple programming of such a system?
-Unfortunately, the 350Z tire pressure monitor reprogramming method requires the use of the Consult tool.
>>Finally, I have heard that the wheel sensors have a lithium battery built into them. Is that correct? If so, what is its expected life, what happens when it begins to fail (inaccurate readings? no readings?), and can the battery be replaced by the owner, or does the whole sensor have to be replaced?
-There is a lithium battery in the sensor. We use a communication strategy that reduces power consumption. The battery should last for 10 years or 150,000 miles. Once the battery is depleted, the valve/sensor must be replaced. There should, however, be no significant degradation in performance for the 10 year period leading up to battery depletion.
Thanks for you interest and good luck.
Rich Huber
Business Development Manager
Schrader Electronics
3255 West Hamlin
Rochester Hills, MI 48309
Phone 248-218-8046
Fax 248-218-8053
You inquired about the tire pressure sensors on the 350Z. I will try to answer your questions as best I can.
>>I've read the Nissan service manual and believe that each wheel sensor has a unique identifier code, and that in the initialization process the car's network learns which code is in each wheel. Is that right?
-This is true. Each sensor/transmitter sends its unique ID along with the tire pressure via radio frequency to an on-board receiver. If the receiver on the vehicle is properly programmed with the sensor id's from each rim, it will filter out any transmissions from nearby vehicles and monitor only those sensors that are fitted to the car.
>>There are two methods for recognizing the sensors, one that uses a transmitter ID tool. Is that using RFID technology? If not, how does the tool identify the sensors and "inform" the car's computer?
-The sensors use technology that is not quite the same as RFID. The tool used at dealerships activates the sensors with a low frequency signal. However, the sensors respond with a high frequency (315MHz) message that is decoded by the vehicle's receiver. With RFID, a single channel (low or high frequency) is used for bi-directional communication.
>>Is it possible to put the car in this registration mode without using the Consult-II device (which is hard for an ordinary owner to get)? Perhaps using a standard OBD-II reader device or software package, or with simple programming of such a system?
-Unfortunately, the 350Z tire pressure monitor reprogramming method requires the use of the Consult tool.
>>Finally, I have heard that the wheel sensors have a lithium battery built into them. Is that correct? If so, what is its expected life, what happens when it begins to fail (inaccurate readings? no readings?), and can the battery be replaced by the owner, or does the whole sensor have to be replaced?
-There is a lithium battery in the sensor. We use a communication strategy that reduces power consumption. The battery should last for 10 years or 150,000 miles. Once the battery is depleted, the valve/sensor must be replaced. There should, however, be no significant degradation in performance for the 10 year period leading up to battery depletion.
Thanks for you interest and good luck.
Rich Huber
Business Development Manager
Schrader Electronics
3255 West Hamlin
Rochester Hills, MI 48309
Phone 248-218-8046
Fax 248-218-8053
And ChinaClipper, it looks like your problems aren't because of the batteries. They should be good for another eight years.
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