Well 5th is cruching really badly - and 6th is close behind. Sigh.

Nissan say it be 2 weeks in the shop.

Will keep you posted.

 

not good! What are you going to do for a ride?

 

Sorry to hear that but why 2 weeks? Is that waiting for parts to come in?

 

Yes parts are the problem (it could be less). They are giving me a car (some cost but not much.

 

Have you been giving the box a hard time (1/4 mile or race track work) and how many kms have you covered.

Peter

APS

 

23000Kms and no track work - I do drive my car hard but I treat it well - blip the rev to match etc.

 

That's a bummer.
Asside from 5th and 6th gears, do the others crunch?
I'm guessing it actually quite loud for you to be describing it as a crunch.
Did you notice any stiffness or notchiness when you first got the problem. Otherwise what alerted you to the problem in the first instance - noise perhaps.
I ask you these questions so that we other Z drivers can be on the lookout for similar problems.
Also, which month and year did you accept delivery of your vehicle? Is it possibly an early model like the US ones that had transmission problems (althought I thought these issues would have been resolved before the Z was released here).

 

This sounds like the same problem we had a thread about with my car and its transmission problems. By the way my car is STILL at randwick nissan with no one there having the decency to call me and let me know what is going on. gonna call them and give it to them tomorrow and possibly even arrange for my car to be transported to another dealer, ****ing A$$ holes over there.

 

Fuggen NISSHITS again!

Had the box in my WRX tended to twice - in for diagnosis one day - week wait for parts - in and out same day.

Nisshit only SELLS cars, warranty and repairs and all that shi* - thats a waste of Frog and Nip money! Don't want to hear about it.

FROZZTY

Where's me angriest thingo . . .

 

Well the car was delivered March last year. I've noticed in the last 2 months that the gears were getting a bit stiff - they did'nt slide in quite as easily (Ky?). I pointed it out to the agents who said nothing was wrong (they would). But you drive the car every day you know when something is wrong. Then I got the odd crunch and I thought did I do that? then it did all the time. The other gears are not far behind I think. I spoke to a bloke from Opposite Lock who has just finished the Targa Tasmania and he changed his oil for a very expensive super dupa type - and he has no problems. And he has thrashed it believe me. So the answer is the oil I think - Nissan probably put crap oil in the engine gearbox and diff. I'm going to change all three for the good stuff.

 

CAR2, I think my car is just as old as yours, it was build Jan 2003, and it has 21,000km on it. I've noticed in the last couple of weeks that the gears are smoother then ever.

I'm planning on changing the gearbox oil to Motul Gear 300, any other recommendations? Any recommendations on diff oil (LSD)? And I've to bleed the breaks as well. Not to mention that I've to find some free time during the week to get my car serviced by Peter.

 

Take great care - don't put anything in that has friction modifiers incorporated - especially considering that the synchros are sus - (that's the grinding you hear) - they depend on friction for effective operation - a friction modifier can destroy their oporation.

I have heard that later gearboxes have extra synchro rings to prevent this grinding - does anyone know when this mod was incorporated - I'd be interested to know because every time I change gear I wait for the clash. I just can't get the bad experiences with the WRX together with the myriad of posts about the Z boxe's shortcomings.

Nisshit used to be renowned for their unburstable boxes - seems something has gon missing since the Frogs took over?

FROGglez

 

From what Peter has told me all of the gearboxes in australia have the extra synchro rings ( 3? ). The Zs that didn't have them had the gearboxes replaced. I think there were 5 of them.

So I assume that every one on this board has the gearboxes with extra synchro rings.

The recomended oil for our gearbox is API GL4 75w-85. This is from Motul website:
There is no mention of friction modifiers. So I assume it's good stuff and it's easy for me to obtain, unlike Redline or Royal Purple oils.

Any recomendations for diff oil?

 

Thanks, Nuff

FROGGLEZZ

 

Actually I agree with Frostys original comment. Some modern full synthetic oils are, IMO, too slippery for the synchros to work properly. In other words, they lubrticate too well. I'm not saying the Motul will have that problem but it is worth bearing on mind.

 

apsilon, I know what you mean, that is why I've tried to find an oil which has the GL-4 rating, for example the Redline shockproof oils only have GL-5 rating and no GL-4.

 

I've forgot to add that the GL-4 rating has some thing to do with protecting and meshing synchros, that's my understanding anyways.

 

I think the GL ratings are to do with the type of duty they're effective for as well as the type of materials they're safe to use with. IIRC gear oil is acidic unlike motor oil. That's a bad thing for the copper and brass (or is it bronze?) syncros and bearings that are common in gearboxes as these are soft materials. So if Nissan specify a GL-5 I wouldn't recommend using a GL-4.

IIRC correctly gear oil has even more additives than motor oil as it has to combat this acidity. I think sulfur is a major component hence the lovely smell. Hmm got me thinking, I wonder if "fully synthetic" gear oil is actually fully syntheic or if it's like motor oil.

I think Redline (and no doubt others) have gear oil that have no friction modifiers while still being GL-5. The NS suffix seems to ring a bell in regards to the Redline products.

 

Nissan specifies GL-4 for the gearbox and GL-5 for the diff. The Redline oils are GL-5 and have friction modifiers so I'm sceptical about using them in the gearbox. Unless you can point me towards one which is GL-4 and doesn't have friction modifiers.

I'm starting to think that I'm going to use Redline LightWeight ShockProof for the diff or maybe Heavy ShockProof. I've not decided yet, since I don't know if it works with VLSD. Now all I've to do is find it.

 

Here you go: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...57&subcatID=18

75W90 NS

It's GL-5 but I don't think it's a problem going up just down (ie GL-3 wouldn't be recommended).

I'm sure other manufacturers have something similar.

EDIT: BTW I've used the light shockproof in a tranny before and was reasonably impressed by it. That's the only time I've used a Redline product but it was enough that I'll try them again at some point.