if it's comin' from the top of the pumpkin, the breather hose may be disconnected. if the pumpkin is overfilled, it may start leaking as soon as you start driving. if it's comin' from the sides (near the driveshafts), it's most likely the oil seals.

you could install new seals with the pumpkin in place, just make sure you move the driveshafts out of the way enough to get a good wack at it. best way is to get a socket which fits around the seal (32mm i think)...or you could always get the real tool (rent at kragen or autozone). just make sure you don't damage the surface of the pumpkin (where it meets the seal).

 

should I be able to see the breather hose? I tried to look for it laying underneath the car ( I can barely fit and don't have a good view), but it's definitely leaking from the top but I couldn't pin point it. Also for the seals do I need to take the axles out? If you could give me a quick DIY that would be great. I've done quite a bit of work myself, but I'm not familiar with the Z's diff.

 

KAZ350Z,

You have PM!

Good luck

 

you can see it, but it's pretty tough. if you are under the car, the tube is on top of the diff cover. if you put your hand above the right (passenger) side stub axle, and reach up until your hand hurts, reach up some more and you should feel the tube. you may be able to get a better look if you could kind of squeeze your head by the right drive shaft (again, until it really hurts). the exit point of the breather is on the left (driver's) side in the subframe.

for the seals, you will need to buy new seals, and new stub axle snap rings. technically, per the FSM, you should also buy new nuts/bolts for the driveshaft/stub axle. then, you have to:

1. drain the diff fluid
2. unbolt the driveshaft from the stub axle
3. tie up the driveshaft so the slip-joint is not at a weird angle
4. remove the stub shaft with a pry bar (slide hammer won't work in this tight space)
5. remove the seal with a scribe on a screwdriver
6. use a tube (i think a 32mm socket works) to "gently push" the new seal in (a plastic hammer or rubber malet should work)
7. installation is reverse of removal (note - make sure the stub axle gets "snapped" all the way in.

hope that helps.

 

"reach up until your hand hurts, reach up some more and you should feel the tube"

haha, thanks a lot, i'll have to run by the dealership for the parts, and then I'll do it this weekend.

 

 

update, so I put it up on the lift and realized I busted my diff. bushing All of these hypothesis' and none of them right, I feel like an idiot, but i figured I'd let you guys know.

 

well, at least you found the problem. you probably didn't even have to hurt your hand to do it well, since it's broke, you might as well look into getting some SPL solid bushings in there!

 

That's why a racer alway say that: we sacrifice a lot to get to this level!

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking when I saw. Are there any other companies that make them?

 

not to my knowledge

 

Anyone have any updates on their set ups???

I would like to do this with a clear plastic bottle that can withstand the temps......need to source something i can use...

-J

 

I think you'd be surprised what temps a water bottle can handle, Cobb TA GTR:
[IMG][/IMG]

 

ha..ha.. cool.....

would like something a little nicer that a typical throw-away water bottle......been trying to source a thick plastic container bottle to use..

-J

 

i was black flagged for leaking all over sebring - i just took a bolt and clamped it into the end of the tube - stopped the leaking!