http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

$170 Shipped from Summit

 

So, these ARP studs at 3" long enough to fit 20mm spacers? Just need to confirm this before I order them from Summit Racing.

 

So, I guess it's okay to use the spacers then after I remove the built-in studs.

 

They say that 50mm is what is minimum recommended for up to a 20mm thick spacer.

-J

 

Thanks, Jason! How's it going up at DFW? Are you coming down to SA for x-mas?

 

Thanks for the link . . . just ordered a set this morning.

 

yup

 

so you didn't have to remove the rear wheel hub to install those?
do you have any other advice? (I'm planning to do it one of those WE)

 

I took the e brake assembly apart and pushed them through th eebrake cable entrance. It is a pain I don't plan to loosen those half shafts anymore than I need to. just pull the rotor off, and the ebrake actuator is on the bottom. PUll the pin to free the clevis and then the two bolts on the back that hold the "tube" to the hub. easy peasy.

 

Looks few hours of PITA... but also some $$$ saving.
I'm so happy than nobody understand me cursing in italian!

I guess I'll do one day front and one day rear... looks like a saturday morning / sunday morning project.

 

Fronts are uber easy. Also seeif you can find a 1/2" thrust bearing to pull the studs in, it makes it so much easier than wihtout it

 

Reviving an old thread. Looking for people to weigh in on what they are doing now for studs and lug nuts.

It seems 3" ARP studs at 190ksi tensile strength are still the studs of choice, and now they come in both 1.25 and 1.5 pitch thread. I am curious why one would choose 1.25 over 1.5 or vice-versa, and what "good lugs" people are using. I - too - am tired of the cheapo spline lugs, and want a steel-based lug not an aluminum lug. I have some NISMO studs as well, as that's what is allowed as an upgrade for specz, but a) I couldn't find anything on their material properties and b) I read that they are the same as the OEM studs, just longer. SPL discontinued the cute packet of ARP studs from their website, though I found them on Z1 and other sites for us.

 

I like the Work RS-Z lugnuts. The come in both 12x1.25 & 12x1.5

WORK RS-Z Type
- Finish: Black coated
- Open End
- Steel
- Extended length



The Nismo lugnuts are also steel, they're very similar to the Work RS-Z but in closed end. They come in short and long versions and only available in 12x1.25

 

I'm running the ARP studs and Muteki steel extended length nuts. Idk about the differences, advantages, disadvantages between 1.25 and 1.5, but am interested in more info on that.

 

Well I have both 1.25 and 1.5, LOL. I have the 350Z with the 3" subaru Studs way back from 2005 and still running project Kicks nuts, though I am getting over them. After several thousand on and offs they are showing wear that is slightly unnerving.

On the supra I am also running ARP studs for the IS300/MKIV supra and running Pep-Boys open ended acorn nuts. The Supra is an MKiii Supra with an LS1 swap and currently running Yokohama A005 super soft slicks and I have no issues yet.

Perhaps this winter while the Z is down for an LSx swap I'll go ahead and swap the nuts for steel.

 

after thinking about your statement and here is my take on the thread pitches.

the finer thread theoretically allows for more contact over the same length of lug nut, just slightly. I'd have to do some math but i "think" there is more contact surface on the finer pitch studs.

the coarser thread has fewer turns, which is nice if you change wheels a lot, ie.e drifters, and autoXers. For me with 2 dedicated racecars it really doesn't make a hill of beans to me, I have a cordless impact and my pit stops are few or have a minimum of 5 minutes anyway.

 

Thanks. Your math makes sense. . . I was curious, however, if the courser pitch meant for a "tighter" fit. I think in extremes: I use a super fine thread for delicate items that need to be held together, but can't withstand much tension; I use BIG COURSE BOLTS to hold things together that experience large loads and forces. Clearly 1.25 vs 1.5 is minor, but I have been curious if ARP only made 1.5 until recently because they are better than the 1.25 AND/OR because there was a market for 1.5 and not 1.25. . . If the 1.5 gives 3% more security than the 1.25, or vice-versa, I want to go that route. WHERE ARE ALL MY MECHANICAL ENGINEER FRIENDS?

 

OK get your bottle of aspirin out, I'm not entirely sure of the math but it seems to gel with reality:

D = Basic Diameter.
p = Screw Thread Pitch
At = The screw thread tensile stress area



which i didn't understand the last part the .p so i looked for the long hand derivation (the second from the bottom):



and in using the formula I came up with:

At= (3.14159/4)([D-(0.75*0.866025*p)]+[D-(1.25*0.866025*p)]-[1/(6*0.8660258*p)])^2

M12x1.25

• At= (3.14159/4)([12-(0.75*0.866025*1.25)]+[12-(1.25*0.866025*1.25)]-[1/(6*0.8660258*1.25)])^2
• At= (3.14159/4)(11.18810+10.64683-0.15000)^2
• At= 369.18770

M12x1.5

• At= (3.14159/4)([12-(0.75*0.866025*1.50)]+[12-(1.25*0.866025*1.50)]-[1/(6*0.8660258*1.50)])^2
• At= (3.14159/4)(11.02572+10.37620-0.13000)^2
• At= 369.1877024

M14x1.25

• At= (3.14159/4)([14-(0.75*0.866025*1.25)]+[14-(1.25*0.866025*1.25)]-[1/(6*0.8660258*1.25)])^2
• At= (3.14159/4)(13.18810+12.64683-0.15000)^2
• At= 517.97954

M14x1.50

• At= (3.14159/4)([14-(0.75*0.866025*1.50)]+[14-(1.25*0.866025*1.50)]-[1/(6*0.8660258*1.50)])^2
• At= (3.14159/4)(13.02572+12.37620-0.13000)^2
• At= 501.6774555

SO..... if my math cooks out and seems logical, then:

(At/At)=percentage stronger
369.18770/355.44508=3.87% greater nominal stress AREA with the M12x1.25 studs over the M12x1.50 studs. I'm sure this is just one of many factors to consider and I'm sure Nissan, Toyota, and all of the Other manufacturers have their doctrine on studs, including how many studs, hub centric vs lug centric, and thread pitch. but in my simple apples to apples comparison it seems the M12x1.25 has ~4% great nominal stress AREA, I am still unsure as to the unit of measure this is.. So this is not the final say inthe matter.

I will rebut myself on this point tho. I have been using the Subaru M12X1.25 3" studs since 2005 and have run every sticky tire I could afford, I am currently running the YokoHama A005 Super Soft compound. I have had ZERO drama with my studs, my project Kicks nuts are starting to fall apart (the cones keep falling off, but that is another story).

This is a further rebuttle, on the Supra I am running M12x1.50 ARP studs and will likely drill out and go to M14x1.25 not for the extra strength as much as the rotors I am running on the Supra came off of a SN95 Cobra Mustang and the lug holes on the rotors are M14 and I'm not a fan of having that disparity in size on my Whoa!

Sorry for the novella and if my math or rationale is wrong I am willing and prepared to be wrong

edit: I had to fix a math error, I had the 1.50 and 1.25 math reversed and had to fix it

 

Their website says that those will not work with OEM wheels, that seems strange??

http://www.workwheelsonline.com/work...-lug-nuts.html

 

After reading this again I decided to order some ARP studs since I have been doing more track days this year with plans of more next year as well. I found them for a good price here (ARP 100-7716):

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/arpwheelstuds3.html

I have never bought anything from them before but could not pass up the price.

Now to find some 12x1.25 lug nuts. I am looking at these: http://www.importpartspro.com/32905b...utm_medium=ppc