Redline Time Attack! @ Buttonwillow Dec 2 & 3
#122
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Entry to Cotton Corners, inside right wheels over top of rumble strip
Entry to Bus Stop, outside right wheels on edge of rumble strip (right to left turn so prefer to keep moment of turn in on asphalt and not painted bumper)
Turn in to Bus Stop
Apex at Bus Stop, left wheels on rumble strip
Unwinding steering at apex of Riverside Sweeper at 100-105mph
#123
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Nice to see you guys out there giving it your all. My Silvia suffered in the last half from a stuck injector of all things. Could have been worse i suppose. Anyway, from all the dirt accumulated in my car from spinning out on more than one occasion, i have enough dirt to finish a gardening project on my side yard now. For my first time ever driving this track at all, and the first time in a year having even driving this car... i managed a 2:13 which i am pleased with. At least i have a foundation to build from when i go back in the spring. While i know that i have a long way to go from my stock SR, i am going to focus more on aero and downforce before upgrading internals next summer. And my skills should significantly improve by then. But i do need at least another 150HP over my current 260HP setup for next year.
Originally Posted by knight_white99
A properly setup Nissan twin turbo 350Z - somewhere north of $50K
Entry fee to the Redline Time Attack - $325
Being able to read Ed's writings and talk to him - priceless.
Entry fee to the Redline Time Attack - $325
Being able to read Ed's writings and talk to him - priceless.
#124
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Originally Posted by kognition
Nice to see you guys out there giving it your all. My Silvia suffered in the last half from a stuck injector of all things. Could have been worse i suppose. Anyway, from all the dirt accumulated in my car from spinning out on more than one occasion, i have enough dirt to finish a gardening project on my side yard now. For my first time ever driving this track at all, and the first time in a year having even driving this car... i managed a 2:13 which i am pleased with. At least i have a foundation to build from when i go back in the spring. While i know that i have a long way to go from my stock SR, i am going to focus more on aero and downforce before upgrading internals next summer. And my skills should significantly improve by then. But i do need at least another 150HP over my current 260HP setup for next year.
Mike
#125
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Hey Mike, thanks.
The hoods are up next. Mold is finished pretty much. I had a pain of a time with the hood, because while honeycomb is perfect for this application, the special honeycomb adhesive could not handle the engine bay temps. So i found a high performance self extinguishing aerospace foam core to bond the upper and lower hood laminates to. It might actually be a 5 or 6 lb hood if my numbers are correct. Ditto on the G35 hood. I am also researching thin fans that we can actually mount into the hood itself to do a more efficient job of forcing the hot air out.
Vents just don't seem to be enough for you guys.
The hoods are up next. Mold is finished pretty much. I had a pain of a time with the hood, because while honeycomb is perfect for this application, the special honeycomb adhesive could not handle the engine bay temps. So i found a high performance self extinguishing aerospace foam core to bond the upper and lower hood laminates to. It might actually be a 5 or 6 lb hood if my numbers are correct. Ditto on the G35 hood. I am also researching thin fans that we can actually mount into the hood itself to do a more efficient job of forcing the hot air out.
Vents just don't seem to be enough for you guys.
Originally Posted by 350ZNV
Nice to see you on here Mike! Your Silvia is easily capable of some very fast times once you get her all dialed in, and I can't wait until you do . BTW, I am about to send you a PayPal payment . Let me know whats coming up next to buy.
Mike
Mike
#126
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Originally Posted by kognition
Hey Mike, thanks.
The hoods are up next. Mold is finished pretty much. I had a pain of a time with the hood, because while honeycomb is perfect for this application, the special honeycomb adhesive could not handle the engine bay temps. So i found a high performance self extinguishing aerospace foam core to bond the upper and lower hood laminates to. It might actually be a 5 or 6 lb hood if my numbers are correct. Ditto on the G35 hood. I am also researching thin fans that we can actually mount into the hood itself to do a more efficient job of forcing the hot air out.
Vents just don't seem to be enough for you guys.
The hoods are up next. Mold is finished pretty much. I had a pain of a time with the hood, because while honeycomb is perfect for this application, the special honeycomb adhesive could not handle the engine bay temps. So i found a high performance self extinguishing aerospace foam core to bond the upper and lower hood laminates to. It might actually be a 5 or 6 lb hood if my numbers are correct. Ditto on the G35 hood. I am also researching thin fans that we can actually mount into the hood itself to do a more efficient job of forcing the hot air out.
Vents just don't seem to be enough for you guys.
EDIT: Found one. Also may I suggest pre-drilled holes for hood pins...
#131
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You guys need some serious hood venting, it is a huge problem with the T.T. kit
in particular. Theres no air gaps anywhere in the engine bay, i would say that is a huge weak link. We will have the hood pre drilled for hood pins because that is all that will hold the hood down. OEM hood latch = bahh!! This is track stuff.
in particular. Theres no air gaps anywhere in the engine bay, i would say that is a huge weak link. We will have the hood pre drilled for hood pins because that is all that will hold the hood down. OEM hood latch = bahh!! This is track stuff.
Originally Posted by 350ZNV
You are the man! If vented, what is the hood design going to look like? May I suggest the Nismo RS style hood. Hang on, let me find a picture...
EDIT: Found one. Also may I suggest pre-drilled holes for hood pins...
EDIT: Found one. Also may I suggest pre-drilled holes for hood pins...
#132
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good times!
IMO, the Z guys should be looking for times in the 1:56-1:55 range in this config. That would be in the Modified class. I see no reason that a boosted Z33 can't keep up with a boosted NSX. I think Billy drove a Z to a 1:57, but it had slicks on that time I believe. So a bit more power, and with DOT race rubber, I think that is an honest time to shoot for.
Billy was driving the Factor X NSX to consistent 1:55's on Sunday, ... that is a 'full street car' with stereo system, etc. No wide body, so it can only accept 'smaller' tires than what a Z or G can run.
looking forward to next year!
IMO, the Z guys should be looking for times in the 1:56-1:55 range in this config. That would be in the Modified class. I see no reason that a boosted Z33 can't keep up with a boosted NSX. I think Billy drove a Z to a 1:57, but it had slicks on that time I believe. So a bit more power, and with DOT race rubber, I think that is an honest time to shoot for.
Billy was driving the Factor X NSX to consistent 1:55's on Sunday, ... that is a 'full street car' with stereo system, etc. No wide body, so it can only accept 'smaller' tires than what a Z or G can run.
looking forward to next year!
#133
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Kognition:
I could not agree more with your venting observation. Looking at the front view of the car, it is clear that we need to open up the bumper skirt to more air flow for the array of air hungry exhangers (radiator,oil cooler, power steering cooler, intercooler) In addition we really need an air ducting intake for the front brakes. The rear brakes are a huge cooling issue, but I have not gotten around to really looking at a solution, short of a change to the rear fender body kit and that is not inexpensive. It seems to me that if we go that route, we really should be getting longer half axles and pushing the stance out a few inches on each side at the same time.
As for the hood, the VIS approach does seem to work, but I am sure that with what has been learned with these cars over the past couple of years, that you can improve on it for both functionality, and looks. The "shark gill" look is not bad. And I like the directing of the flow to the side A pillars so that one does not throw any oil mist etc onto the windscreen. But it is not as efficient as it could be, not by any means. Additional evacuation slots could and should be in the area near the hinges, and I think additional intake scoops at the front would help force more air flow across the block.
Natural heat convection lifts the heat, but a vacuum or suction from the top flow would really be terrific.
That still leaves the low and rear mount of the twin turbos, cranking out serious heat, tucked down out of the flow. Not sure whether more needs to be done there, or what can be done. I have tried the thermal barrier coatings and that seems to have a true impact for power and reducing heat expression, but this is probably not additionally addressable with the hood. A side duct in the front fenders could be the only approach to force more air there. In any event it is not as important as getting flow to the assemblage of coolers up front, and the under bonnet heat out of there.
Looking forward to your masterwork!
I could not agree more with your venting observation. Looking at the front view of the car, it is clear that we need to open up the bumper skirt to more air flow for the array of air hungry exhangers (radiator,oil cooler, power steering cooler, intercooler) In addition we really need an air ducting intake for the front brakes. The rear brakes are a huge cooling issue, but I have not gotten around to really looking at a solution, short of a change to the rear fender body kit and that is not inexpensive. It seems to me that if we go that route, we really should be getting longer half axles and pushing the stance out a few inches on each side at the same time.
As for the hood, the VIS approach does seem to work, but I am sure that with what has been learned with these cars over the past couple of years, that you can improve on it for both functionality, and looks. The "shark gill" look is not bad. And I like the directing of the flow to the side A pillars so that one does not throw any oil mist etc onto the windscreen. But it is not as efficient as it could be, not by any means. Additional evacuation slots could and should be in the area near the hinges, and I think additional intake scoops at the front would help force more air flow across the block.
Natural heat convection lifts the heat, but a vacuum or suction from the top flow would really be terrific.
That still leaves the low and rear mount of the twin turbos, cranking out serious heat, tucked down out of the flow. Not sure whether more needs to be done there, or what can be done. I have tried the thermal barrier coatings and that seems to have a true impact for power and reducing heat expression, but this is probably not additionally addressable with the hood. A side duct in the front fenders could be the only approach to force more air there. In any event it is not as important as getting flow to the assemblage of coolers up front, and the under bonnet heat out of there.
Looking forward to your masterwork!
Last edited by Eagle1; 12-09-2006 at 05:47 AM.
#134
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John, just for the learning for us, why does the SCCA not prefer to run #13 CW very often?
SCCA has a tendency to run their events CCW for some reason.
SCCA might be low on workers and their track coverage requirements are a bit higher then most other sanctioning bodies.
But, I think the number one reason is:
I and others prefer CCW and the run down to Star Mazda over the sweeper cutoff. Makes the Esses much faster and Magic Mountain is very different when you approach it at over 100 mph and start braking on the uphill. 1CCW is my favorite.
I've got 900MB of video (with no sound) of Gary Sheehan in the Flying Miata chasing my old 240Z around 1CCW. One of these days I'll post it somewhere.
#135
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Hi Ed,
Maybe cooling fans coming in from the fender wells would help with forced air.
Thinking about it as i write this, it might be more efficient to force cooler air into the area than to pull hot air out. And maybe a snorkel design to get the cooler air into the turbo exhaust side. Even a push/pull fan design could do much more. There is just so much heat energy being expelled that simple vents seem ineffective. I mean, all the work and technology to make it perform... and .... simple vents to get rid of the engines number one enemy? Heat. I think attention needs to be payed to removing the engine bay heat by
a good fan system that doesn't use alot of amps.
Maybe cooling fans coming in from the fender wells would help with forced air.
Thinking about it as i write this, it might be more efficient to force cooler air into the area than to pull hot air out. And maybe a snorkel design to get the cooler air into the turbo exhaust side. Even a push/pull fan design could do much more. There is just so much heat energy being expelled that simple vents seem ineffective. I mean, all the work and technology to make it perform... and .... simple vents to get rid of the engines number one enemy? Heat. I think attention needs to be payed to removing the engine bay heat by
a good fan system that doesn't use alot of amps.
Originally Posted by Eagle1
Kognition:
I could not agree more with your venting observation. Looking at the front view of the car, it is clear that we need to open up the bumper skirt to more air flow for the array of air hungry exhangers (radiator,oil cooler, power steering cooler, intercooler) In addition we really need an air ducting intake for the front brakes. The rear brakes are a huge cooling issue, but I have not gotten around to really looking at a solution, short of a change to the rear fender body kit and that is not inexpensive. It seems to me that if we go that route, we really should be getting longer half axles and pushing the stance out a few inches on each side at the same time.
As for the hood, the VIS approach does seem to work, but I am sure that with what has been learned with these cars over the past couple of years, that you can improve on it for both functionality, and looks. The "shark gill" look is not bad. And I like the directing of the flow to the side A pillars so that one does not throw any oil mist etc onto the windscreen. But it is not as efficient as it could be, not by any means. Additional evacuation slots could and should be in the area near the hinges, and I think additional intake scoops at the front would help force more air flow across the block.
Natural heat convection lifts the heat, but a vacuum or suction from the top flow would really be terrific.
That still leaves the low and rear mount of the twin turbos, cranking out serious heat, tucked down out of the flow. Not sure whether more needs to be done there, or what can be done. I have tried the thermal barrier coatings and that seems to have a true impact for power and reducing heat expression, but this is probably not additionally addressable with the hood. A side duct in the front fenders could be the only approach to force more air there. In any event it is not as important as getting flow to the assemblage of coolers up front, and the under bonnet heat out of there.
Looking forward to your masterwork!
I could not agree more with your venting observation. Looking at the front view of the car, it is clear that we need to open up the bumper skirt to more air flow for the array of air hungry exhangers (radiator,oil cooler, power steering cooler, intercooler) In addition we really need an air ducting intake for the front brakes. The rear brakes are a huge cooling issue, but I have not gotten around to really looking at a solution, short of a change to the rear fender body kit and that is not inexpensive. It seems to me that if we go that route, we really should be getting longer half axles and pushing the stance out a few inches on each side at the same time.
As for the hood, the VIS approach does seem to work, but I am sure that with what has been learned with these cars over the past couple of years, that you can improve on it for both functionality, and looks. The "shark gill" look is not bad. And I like the directing of the flow to the side A pillars so that one does not throw any oil mist etc onto the windscreen. But it is not as efficient as it could be, not by any means. Additional evacuation slots could and should be in the area near the hinges, and I think additional intake scoops at the front would help force more air flow across the block.
Natural heat convection lifts the heat, but a vacuum or suction from the top flow would really be terrific.
That still leaves the low and rear mount of the twin turbos, cranking out serious heat, tucked down out of the flow. Not sure whether more needs to be done there, or what can be done. I have tried the thermal barrier coatings and that seems to have a true impact for power and reducing heat expression, but this is probably not additionally addressable with the hood. A side duct in the front fenders could be the only approach to force more air there. In any event it is not as important as getting flow to the assemblage of coolers up front, and the under bonnet heat out of there.
Looking forward to your masterwork!
#139
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Originally Posted by betamotorsports
Just for reference, here are some comparable lap times for 13CW:
Formula Atlantic 01:40s (stupid fast)
T1 02:02s (Z06 Corvette)
ITS 2:03s (E36 BMW 325is)
Spec Racer Ford 02:04s (110hp, 1,700 lbs)
T2 02:05s (A 350Z with $5,000 worth of suspension work, a basically stock engine, and a great driver)
Formula Atlantic 01:40s (stupid fast)
T1 02:02s (Z06 Corvette)
ITS 2:03s (E36 BMW 325is)
Spec Racer Ford 02:04s (110hp, 1,700 lbs)
T2 02:05s (A 350Z with $5,000 worth of suspension work, a basically stock engine, and a great driver)
Also the 100 degree heat which can kill lap times to the tune of 2-3 seconds per lap compared to cool weather.
#140
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Each region in different in its level of competition. In SoPac we have national level T2 drivers (Dave Schotz is the best local example - Runoffs pole in 2005 and front row 2006) and some of the top ITS drivers (John Norris and Bryan Lampe are two examples) and ITS lap times are typically a bit faster then the T2 lap times. T1 here is undersubscribed so it tends to be slower then it should be.
T2 was weak in the results example I posted above (2 cars in class).
EDIT: In SoPac ITS and T2 run in the same group and the group winner is almost always an ITS car.
T2 was weak in the results example I posted above (2 cars in class).
EDIT: In SoPac ITS and T2 run in the same group and the group winner is almost always an ITS car.
Last edited by betamotorsports; 12-22-2006 at 07:38 AM.