spend $500+ for .5 front camber?
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I'm thinking about getting the SPL front arms and I'm currently at ~2 degrees negative.
If I had arms I would shoot for -2.5 to -2.7 since my car serves a dual purpose.
So, whats everyones opinon, spend the cash for .5 degree or save it for new race rubber?
If I had arms I would shoot for -2.5 to -2.7 since my car serves a dual purpose.
So, whats everyones opinon, spend the cash for .5 degree or save it for new race rubber?
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Originally Posted by joeygill
In my very amateur opinion, I would think you'd get more bang for the buck with getting fresh rubber. Especially since you are already at -2.
Are you at -2 just from lowering springs?
Are you at -2 just from lowering springs?
Yes, I'm lowered on HKS RS's. I believe 03's have a little more negative camber than newer models.
You're don't buy adjustable suspension components for just the extreme range of their adjustment. The whole point of adjustable suspension components is to "adjust" to get the best handling for each situation.
If you're a member of the More Money Then Sense (MMTS) racing team then you buy these adjustable suspension parts, put them at their max setting, and then never "adjust" a thing again.
An example:
Willow Springs Big Track
The most important corners on the track (except 1) are all right hand turns. A properly setup car for that track has an asymetric alignment with less camber on the right side. If you have an adjustable suspension, are willing and able to do the work, you can pick up .2 to .6 in your lap times. If you're a member of MMTS then you just blame your slower lap times on:
Cheating
Old tires
Balked on your fast lap
Too hot
Too cold
Organizesrs hate 350Zs
Car classed incorrectly
If you're a member of the More Money Then Sense (MMTS) racing team then you buy these adjustable suspension parts, put them at their max setting, and then never "adjust" a thing again.
An example:
Willow Springs Big Track
The most important corners on the track (except 1) are all right hand turns. A properly setup car for that track has an asymetric alignment with less camber on the right side. If you have an adjustable suspension, are willing and able to do the work, you can pick up .2 to .6 in your lap times. If you're a member of MMTS then you just blame your slower lap times on:
Cheating
Old tires
Balked on your fast lap
Too hot
Too cold
Organizesrs hate 350Zs
Car classed incorrectly
Last edited by betamotorsports; Sep 17, 2007 at 07:51 AM.
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Yeah, I think I'm gonna wait on these.
The car is daily driven and used for instructing at HPDE's and open track days, so lap times arent my main priority. After looking at my track tires they seem to be wearing eavenly and I dont see any unusual wear from my camber settings.
I think I'm just gonna save my money for new NT01's when my Hankook's are done.
The car is daily driven and used for instructing at HPDE's and open track days, so lap times arent my main priority. After looking at my track tires they seem to be wearing eavenly and I dont see any unusual wear from my camber settings.
I think I'm just gonna save my money for new NT01's when my Hankook's are done.
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Originally Posted by tmak26b
i am surprised you are not wearing your rear tires out with 2 degree of camber.
Well I run -2 degrees out back also, plus I run 275's all around and I rotate them after every track day.
I had 1.8 degree driving on the street and track. I was still getting outside wear (not as bad), but I also had tons of inside wear from too much camber. I think it's a compromise. It does help you use 275, I use tiny 235s
Originally Posted by betamotorsports
If you're a member of MMTS then you just blame your slower lap times on:
Cheating
Old tires
Balked on your fast lap
Too hot
Too cold
Organizesrs hate 350Zs
Car classed incorrectly
Cheating
Old tires
Balked on your fast lap
Too hot
Too cold
Organizesrs hate 350Zs
Car classed incorrectly
I have the SPL's and love them. Camber is set to -3.5 front and even running 255's front and 275's rear I still have some oversteer. The front end grips very well and the steering feel is very precise. They are easy to adjust so that's a nice bonus for a street and track car.
Originally Posted by Axelerate
how does adjusting camber at the track affect the toe?
Do you adjust that as well?
Do you adjust that as well?
I set my camber where I want it for track use, then take it to firestone (life time alignment program), and have them set the toe. I don't want them to touch the expensive camber arms because they might torque down the bolts too much.
I jot down what I have camber set at because after my track day, I'll set camber back to -1.25 for street driving. A few weeks later, I'll adjust my camber back to -2.5 to -2.75 for the track.
I jot down what I have camber set at because after my track day, I'll set camber back to -1.25 for street driving. A few weeks later, I'll adjust my camber back to -2.5 to -2.75 for the track.
If I may add. The stock arms are not design to be used at -2 degrees, meaning that the top mount might be lock when you compress the suspension. At least that what I experience with 2.5 degrees. At that time I didn't know about SPL, so I went with cusco. So far no complains, just that SPL seams to be superior and so it worth the difference in price.
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alright, alright.
I ordered the SPL race spec from Scott @ Relentless.
Hopefully I'll get them before the Red Line event at Summit next weekend.
I'm going to set them at -2.75 and see how I like it. I wont really have time to mess with the settings too much because I'll be instructing on Saturday, so no track alignments at first. I'll have to wait for a test and tune day to really play with them.
Thanks for the help!
I ordered the SPL race spec from Scott @ Relentless.
Hopefully I'll get them before the Red Line event at Summit next weekend.
I'm going to set them at -2.75 and see how I like it. I wont really have time to mess with the settings too much because I'll be instructing on Saturday, so no track alignments at first. I'll have to wait for a test and tune day to really play with them.
Thanks for the help!
Originally Posted by Axelerate
alright, alright.
I ordered the SPL race spec from Scott @ Relentless.
Hopefully I'll get them before the Red Line event at Summit next weekend.
I'm going to set them at -2.75 and see how I like it. I wont really have time to mess with the settings too much because I'll be instructing on Saturday, so no track alignments at first. I'll have to wait for a test and tune day to really play with them.
Thanks for the help!
I ordered the SPL race spec from Scott @ Relentless.
Hopefully I'll get them before the Red Line event at Summit next weekend.
I'm going to set them at -2.75 and see how I like it. I wont really have time to mess with the settings too much because I'll be instructing on Saturday, so no track alignments at first. I'll have to wait for a test and tune day to really play with them.
Thanks for the help!
It takes ~30 minutes to adjust them, so no biggy.
Oh, go -3.0 degrees. More better
Originally Posted by Andres_Miami
If I may add. The stock arms are not design to be used at -2 degrees, meaning that the top mount might be lock when you compress the suspension. At least that what I experience with 2.5 degrees. At that time I didn't know about SPL, so I went with cusco. So far no complains, just that SPL seams to be superior and so it worth the difference in price.
as far as street use goes? if i used spl and just wanted to auto cross it one day with factory specs for camber and toe, with spls would the Z handle the same as stock with tanabe nf210s...or would there be more or less understeer then stock?



