I know I was just messin around with you guys...

 

If you want to race your Z:

it's either buy a small tire trailer and build a htich

OR

buy a big truck/trailer and Tow your Z.

...most of us don't have the $$ to make the Z into a trailer queen.

 

I have had very good results with a disaapearing hitch I had installed on my 350Z to haul my track trailer. It is welded to the frame of the car, not the aluminum bumper for a much stronger attachment. It did require the use of an Injen type exhaust that took out the stock muffler element and left a lot more room to weld the hitch bracing onto the frame. This was a custom weld job with a 90 degree drop down (removable) hitch connection. It was not very expensive ($300) and nothing shows when the connector is off the car. I have had it for 3 years and have hauled the trailer behind my Z to many DE's as with regular 600- 1000 mile RT hauls. It has made tracks days so much easier and enjoyable.

Happy to send some trailer and hitch pics if you send me your e mail at tdchristensen@comcast.net

Tomzz

 

This is a good thread. You guys that already have trailers are the word. Thanks for breaking the ice.

 

Good picture I got under the rear of my Nismo for hitch owners. Looks like it will work. What do you guys think?

 

yep
the one from roark will do just fine
when you do the extenstion/ball just make sure its out another 3-4 inches to clear the diffuser.

also on roarks design i would put the bottom two bolts closer to the bumper reciever to help reduce any flex toward the front of the car from the bumper.

i have made one for my car but just of the lack of something better to do i will be making a second one on a new bumper with the different bolt placement. no nothing was wrong with the first one, i just have nothing better to do.
good luck and see if he is still making them

 

AND..if you have a 2006 or later Z with LED tail lights, you will need this type of wiring harness:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118176KIT.htm

Circuit Protected Modulite 4 Pole Harness with Hardwire Kit (Includes Testers)

Code: 118176KIT
Price: $64.95

Capacity: 8.4 amps. This kit uses the 118176 circuit protected Modulite powered converter and includes everything necessary for installation on your vehicle.

Circuit Protected Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness

Features:

* Short circuit protection safeguards itself and the tow vehicle against harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations.
o Module automatically resets itself once tripped
* Virtually eliminates draw on the vehicle's taillight circuit
* Powers the trailer's stop, turn, tail and running lights directly from the tow vehicle's battery
o Maximizes trailer light brightness
* May be used on 2 and 3 wire systems
o When used on 2 wire systems, brake wire on harness must be grounded
o Adapts a 3 wire system on the towing vehicle to a 2 wire system on the trailer.
* Includes circuit tester and (5) scotch locks to aid in installation.
* Also includes 4-pole trailer connector cover with LED test lights.

Specs:

* 4-pole trailer connector is 60" long from converter box
* Pigtail leads measures 18" long - passenger wire (green) measures 72" long
* Will work on vehicles with LED taillights
* Capacities: 4.2 amps (tail); 2.1 amps (stop/turn)

Warning:
Overloading circuit can cause fires. Do not exceed lower of towing manufacturer rating or:

* Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps)
* Max. tail lights: (4.2 amps)

 

I've got a hitch on my 05 G35C. I use it to tow my race trailer with race wheels and tools to the track. However, I have been told the bumper supports are much stronger on the 2005+ G's compared to the 03-04. Not sure of the truth of this. I'll try and get some links to where I got the hitch from, i think it was the curtis one. Maybe some pics, as well.

As for you retards who keep saying "hitch FTL", well, I say people who don't undertsand racing their sports car FTL

 

I use that on my 2005 Z -- the only difficulty is running the 12V line from the battery to the tail. You will learn about how to take off (and put back) quite a bit of the right side inside plastic. I basically ran mine almost directly alongside the rear washer fluid line -- at least around the door area. Just make sure that you "wrap" the 12V line inside some of that plastic auto wiring conduit -- you don't need to have a short on a live 12V line!