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Brake Upgrade For Track Options

Old Nov 7, 2007 | 06:42 AM
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Default Brake Upgrade For Track Options

I have 03 Track Model with OEM Brembos and upgraded rotors, pads and fluids. For the $$$ is it better to keep OEM rears and get 6 Pot front either AP or StopTech or Get Upgraded 4 Pot front and Rear system. I do track the car. I know the 14 inch 6 Pot systems are great but do they change the brake bias too much forward with stock rears?? Anybody have experience with this setup. Thanks...
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:52 AM
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Despite my thoughts last year to the contrary, I've found that the OEM Brembos with stainless lines, stoptech 2pc rotors, your choice of pads (I like DS3000 from Ferodo and the HT10, going to try the DTC60/70 next year) work plenty well for me. This is on a nearly-full-weight car (some lightening but the cage probably more than makes up for it) with both street tires and dot-Rs and 14 track days this year.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 08:00 AM
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Default Brakes

Thanks, only time I had fade is at Laguna with Hawk Blue pads. I have heard that they aren't best pad for heavy track use as their MOT is around 1000F.

I have changed pads to Raybestos ST43 front and kept Blues in the back.

I will see this Friday how they do.

Seems like the best thing with the bigger front rotors would be better heat absorbtion properties...

Do you ahave the two piece StopTechs front/rear??

Are they lasting a full season of racing??
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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stoptech 2pcs are all around.

got 11 total days on track with them (other 3 on old OEMs). they're about done now, but the replacement is cheap (enough) since you can just do the friction surface ~160-180/corner
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 08:48 AM
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You can get away with Brembos all around with race pads and ducting. I didn't agree at first, but then I watched David Ray (www.hookedondriving.com) run his Dorito Bro's 350Z around Seca and T-hill on the stock Brembo set-up driving at 100%. I'm working on ducting my Brembos as he has as we speak...
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dmoffitt
stoptech 2pcs are all around.

got 11 total days on track with them (other 3 on old OEMs). they're about done now, but the replacement is cheap (enough) since you can just do the friction surface ~160-180/corner

What kind of pads are you using to only get 11 track days on a set of rotors???

I've had my blanks since last season, and they are still fine. I'm running Raybestos ST-41's front and HP-11's rear. Centric blanks are $60 a rotor.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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HT10s + n00b
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by scotts300
You can get away with Brembos all around with race pads and ducting. I didn't agree at first, but then I watched David Ray (www.hookedondriving.com) run his Dorito Bro's 350Z around Seca and T-hill on the stock Brembo set-up driving at 100%. I'm working on ducting my Brembos as he has as we speak...
+1 Ducting is on my list too
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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Default Stoptech Brakes

Anybody who road races have an opinion on the ST40 front Caliper on a 13 inch versus 14 inch rotor??? Same pad larger rotor..I assume only difference would be heat properties..Seems like the 14 inch with 4 Pot should be enough as 6 Pot has larger pad and maybe more heat generated?????

Any input would be helpful...
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by roger22
Anybody who road races have an opinion on the ST40 front Caliper on a 13 inch versus 14 inch rotor??? Same pad larger rotor..I assume only difference would be heat properties..Seems like the 14 inch with 4 Pot should be enough as 6 Pot has larger pad and maybe more heat generated?????

Any input would be helpful...
The 14in will have more leverage and displacement when pad knock back will show up. That's would be the only draw back (far fetched IMO).
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by roger22
Anybody who road races have an opinion on the ST40 front Caliper on a 13 inch versus 14 inch rotor??? Same pad larger rotor..I assume only difference would be heat properties..Seems like the 14 inch with 4 Pot should be enough as 6 Pot has larger pad and maybe more heat generated?????

Any input would be helpful...
You can fit a smaller wheel over the 13" than you can a 14". Smaller wheel = more centralized weight around the center of the hub. Also, tires are usually cheaper for smaller wheel diameters.

You would certainly have more heat dissipation with the larger rotor in the 14" kit, but in almost 4 years of running the front Stoptech 13" kit I have yet to fade my front pads at the track (although I tend to always run a race compound at the track, so that certainly has something to do with it.)

Another thing to consider is pad availability for the 6 pot pad size...StopTech's ST40 caliper uses the same pad shape as a mid-90's 911, so most every pad compound known to man is available for it. I don't know that the pad shape for the 6-pot caliper is as universal.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 07:44 AM
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Smile St40

Thanks for the repsonses, I think after this season is over(very soon) I will upgrade to the ST40 Caliper with 14 inch rotor....

BTW, anybody besides Stillen sell front ducting that works with OEM Bumper?
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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http://www.ducting.com/Brake_Ducting.html

If I were you, I would try ducting first, then upgrade if you continue having problems. FWIW, I bought 13" Wilwoods that work with 17" wheels. No complaints, and relatively cheap like StopTech. Then again, I had the non-Brembo setup, which was utterly inadequate to start with. There are some good how-to's on the internet for installing ducting.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 12:53 PM
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Default Ducting

Did you do the ducting yourself??

How did you attach it to the bumper and to rotor area??
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 06:41 AM
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It's on my list of things to do. Having done a lot of research in preparation, I came across this example from this forum:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hlight=ducting
I have been debating going to Stillen's front end that is set up for ducting and comes with a kit, but DIY would be much cheaper. When cutting the dust shields on the brakes for the BBK install, I left some metal for mounting tabs. They would need some reinforcement, but aluminum outlets could be attached to them so the air blows into the vanes. Not sure how to attach them, since the steel, aluminum, and rivets would expand at different rates with the heat and probably fail. Maybe safety wire would be better.
There are some plastic bits on the sides of the grille opening that I have removed to allow additional airflow to the radiator. I think that would be a good place to mount some 2.5" inlets.
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