The Tire DB - Posts about Track and AutoX tire brands
That's odd because it seems like I always see them for sale. Somebody had posted a link to a website that was selling them reasonably cheap. I'll have to see if I can track it down for you.
Front Track Wheel
Rear Track Wheel
You need to be careful about some of the used wheel places. They fix up significantly damaged wheels, and I hope that they do them right!
Call them, ask them if they'll stand behind their product (warranty with no exclusions).
Just remember -- the wheels are probably one of the most stressed elements on a car in a corner. You don't want a wheel to collapse under that stress (going from fully stressed to unstressed and back to fully stressed during a single revolution). As as example, I found pictures of my old car (2002 Nissan SpecV with OEM wheels) that showed that the wheels were deflecting almost 15 degrees under autocross cornering loads. No wonder the spokes were cracking.
Remember in wheels, strong-light-cheap, pick any two. There's a reason that the stock Rays are as expensive as they are...
Call them, ask them if they'll stand behind their product (warranty with no exclusions).
Just remember -- the wheels are probably one of the most stressed elements on a car in a corner. You don't want a wheel to collapse under that stress (going from fully stressed to unstressed and back to fully stressed during a single revolution). As as example, I found pictures of my old car (2002 Nissan SpecV with OEM wheels) that showed that the wheels were deflecting almost 15 degrees under autocross cornering loads. No wonder the spokes were cracking.
Remember in wheels, strong-light-cheap, pick any two. There's a reason that the stock Rays are as expensive as they are...
OMG, thank you so much. The Tire & Wheel forum is full of steamrollers and dubz that work with rolled fenders, and not so much info on stock-legal rims and/or rims that are close to stock offset and fit without crazy camber and fender rolling.
Looks like I'm in for some RPF-1's.
Looks like I'm in for some RPF-1's.

Just find a set of used track-model wheels and 285/30R18 V710s all around (no camber adjustment and the 710's have more rubber on the outside edge, you'll chord Hoosier shoulders in no time). and another set of tracks & decent streets. I really doubt using spacers to get RPF1's or something light like that in spec for stock-class is worth it, you wont notice the weight difference...id only go for aftermarket wheels if I needed something wider for BSP. save the cash for more 710's or shocks or events or car payments. all this is only if you have the car paid off or if you have a very secure job though, if I still had payments i'd use 7500 to pay off the car and just get another set of used OEM wheels and decent streets.
Last edited by ke0ki2k; Apr 1, 2009 at 07:36 AM.
Well... as always, it depends. The advantages you list above are true for shorter sidewall tires but they are not as great as many people make them out to be. And there are advantages for taller sidewall tires.
Tire OD affects gearing and, depending on what you're doing (road racing in this context) sometimes shorter gearing will put the car in a bad spot (engine rpm) for acceleration out of an important corner. Taller sidewalls are also more forgiving under hard braking and give a broader slip angle curve in the corners making it easier to drive at the limit. A higher horsepower RWD car will put power down better with taller rear tire sidewalls.
Tire OD affects gearing and, depending on what you're doing (road racing in this context) sometimes shorter gearing will put the car in a bad spot (engine rpm) for acceleration out of an important corner. Taller sidewalls are also more forgiving under hard braking and give a broader slip angle curve in the corners making it easier to drive at the limit. A higher horsepower RWD car will put power down better with taller rear tire sidewalls.
I ran 17" rims on the rear of the G last year just to get a larger sidewall on the car and traction coming off the corners improved dramatically... so much so that we were easily beating similar cars with over 200 'claimed' more whp - this wasn't the only advantage we had, but it sure did help.This year is a whole new ball game with the rule changes in my class and we have something else up our sleeve

I have run 2 sets of RT615, and agree with what has been said about them so far. Great tire for the money. Passable in the rain when new. Anything less than 50% tread (50% isn't much on the 615) and you'd better be locked at 60 or less in the wet or you're in for some fun (not that I would ever barrel past 70 in the rain on the 615, irrespective of tread condition). Dry they are great, but can get greasy. My first foray into RT615 overheating was in an autox slalom. Rear end got away from me, suddenly and violently, but now that I have some experience I can usually feel when they are getting hot and back off accordingly.
Perfect no, but definitely a great bang for buck.
I was able to hook him up with a set of spare track wheels that I had laying around, Original factory tires with plenty of tread, TPS sensors still in the wheels. Best thing is that he lives less than half a mile away...
Seeing that Z on blocks was one sad sight...
Seeing that Z on blocks was one sad sight...
Were I in the market for some track/tires wheels that would double as dailys, I'd run a square setup.
F 19x10 +15~18 275/30/19 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
R 19x10 +10~15 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
A lot of the big Japanese tuning houses use setups like this. Also, the diameter of those two tires will not make VDC go haywire on the street.
F 19x10 +15~18 275/30/19 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
R 19x10 +10~15 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
A lot of the big Japanese tuning houses use setups like this. Also, the diameter of those two tires will not make VDC go haywire on the street.
Nitto Tire and Team Achilles Motorsports recently raced in the world's longest endurance race: 25 Hours of Thunderhill. They competed in the fastest D.O.T. tire class using Nitto NT01 tires. This is the second fastest class behind the Unlimited class that uses race slicks. Nitto created a new website that documents the race as it unfolded. Even though the team had a shaky start, the race was one of the closest on record. Early in the race the team was forced to pit and make needed repairs, which put them four laps down. Then, as they tried to regain their track position, a dense fog settled over the track, making it difficult to see more than a few car lengths ahead. The fog forced officials to stop the race for over 11 hours. After the restart, the team is starting to catch up to the first-place team. But is it enough time?
After weeks of prep and hours of racing, the race came down to a few crucial seconds.
Click here to see how history was made.
Screen Shot:

Nitto NT01

If you have any questions or comments please click here to contact Nitto Tire.
This PostRelease® is part of an advertiser-supported program that sponsors My 350Z. This program delivers relevant news and announcements as posts within the My 350Z forum.
Last edited by PostRelease; Apr 15, 2009 at 10:00 AM.
I know this topic has been beaten to death but I thought I would share my experiences to those who are looking to run track events this summer
Last year I ran Azenis RT615's on my OEM Track wheels 245/40/18 in front with 255/40/18 in back and it worked out very nicely. I ran 39psi (hot) in front and 37 in the rear and the handling was very nicely balanced, even after I added Hotchkis sways. They did tend to get greasy past about 50% treadlife and were useless in the rain by that point. I would buy them again for track use if I was still in HPDE1 or 2, but now that I've graduated to 3 I will be trying out some Nitto NT05's in 275/40/18 all around. I will keep you guys updated with feedback from those when I get back from Mid-Ohio this weekend
edit: They were toast after 5 track weekends (total of 40 20-minute sessions), three autocrosses and about 5k street miles, and I did experience some mild chunking on warmer days.
Last year I ran Azenis RT615's on my OEM Track wheels 245/40/18 in front with 255/40/18 in back and it worked out very nicely. I ran 39psi (hot) in front and 37 in the rear and the handling was very nicely balanced, even after I added Hotchkis sways. They did tend to get greasy past about 50% treadlife and were useless in the rain by that point. I would buy them again for track use if I was still in HPDE1 or 2, but now that I've graduated to 3 I will be trying out some Nitto NT05's in 275/40/18 all around. I will keep you guys updated with feedback from those when I get back from Mid-Ohio this weekend
edit: They were toast after 5 track weekends (total of 40 20-minute sessions), three autocrosses and about 5k street miles, and I did experience some mild chunking on warmer days.
Last edited by Slow*Jim; Apr 8, 2009 at 12:17 PM.









