I'd like to see a thread for the Oil Cooler setup to not get off topic from the cage.

Mount pump in front of diff, leave everything else in tirewell?

 

There is another photo posted here somewhere with the cooler under the car.
I think it's the guy with the WFT OMG plate and the "Move Over ==>>" decals.

Love the cage photos!!!

 

Sasha Anis of SG garage.

 

^^^ Yep, that's the one!!!

 

He moved it from there I believe, it was in another thread.

Heres some good threads on Diff Coolers/Locations

https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...installed.html

https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...-location.html

https://my350z.com/forum/product-ann...ooler-kit.html

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...ial-temps.html

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...installed.html

 

It can not be removed

But it looks so much better removed

 

Yep. That's the other one I remember seeing:

 

If you want to mount it underneath the car (like the area where the stock muffler used to be), you could always take your diff cooler and use it to replace your small engine oil cooler, then get a shorter but wider cooler for the diff, so it does not hang down so low.

 

Here are some pics of my NASA PT legal cage. I take 3 points for it though due to the rear strut brace and tieing into the pillars with the gussets.

 

This thread is EPIC. What was the original question again? Ah, who cares. MOAR race car pics! This business of removing the rear console is temping, but probably unwise in a streetable car with an unknown racing future. It's not like you could put it back.

 

Keep the pics coming, planning on a cage next year. good timing

 

Since this is turning into a free for all...


Heres how I roll since about 2 months of owning the car haha. Started by taking out a couple of things, and before I knew it...






No idea on exact weight, but a thought for those looking at a cage (I want to do a 6pt over the winter), is the seats. You need a good 4inches or so behind you, and if you are tall like me this presents a problem with the factory seats. A proper racing seat should free up some room, especially something thin, since factory leathers are quite thick.


Also I know the sound deadening is tough to get out, but its worth it, trust me! I filled a grocery bag with the stuff and I still only have about 75% of it out, and the thing was heavy. Easily 10+ lbs.

 

NASA rules pertaining to the cage if you're thinking or running Performance Touring or TTA/B:

ROLL CAGES:
6 or 8-point (two main hoop, two rear brace, two front hoop, and either two front firewall or foot
well optional mounting points) roll cage designs constructed per the NASA CCR may be utilized
without a PT modification point assessment. Additional bars and/or attachment points within the
driver’s compartment that exceed the allowances in the CCR are also permitted. The following
roll cage designs are permitted but will be assessed points as follows:
20
1) One or more bars that penetrate the front bulkhead/firewall +2
2) One or more bars that are welded to the chassis (directly or with a plate) anywhere farther
than 6” from the end of one of the above 6 or 8 listed tubes where it terminates at a plate +2

If you add bracing to the strut bar:
27) Add a third (or more) attachment point to a front or rear strut tower bar (or replace an existing/OEM three point bar) +1

and if you want to cut out and replace the factory strut brace, this looks like a no point modification:
47) Add rear strut tower bar (two attachment points—bolted in or as a component of the cage)

You are free to cut out the package tray and speaker housing as long as your car meets the weight requirements for your class in PTA/B/TTA/B.
If you're building it for ST, you're free to do what you want as long as it conforms to the CCR for safety. WT/HP is all that really matters in ST other than tire size and compound.

Glad to see another Z race car being built!

 

Yea second cage. The first was a autopower.

 

Quick question:

03 base model, if I get rid of the OEM seat belts, am I going to cause any CEL or cause issue with the car starting properly? I was unsure if these are tied into the air bag stuff at all.

 

Nope, but the light will be on unless you wire it to be off.

 

I assume that nismo, or anyone does not sell a nice resistor? I guess I will go do some searching to see if anyone has provided a solution.

 

Some very impressive cages in here, just wanted to thank everyone for sharing.

I want to cage my car for my health lol, but dont currently plan on road racing, but MAY in the future, so Im at a crossroads of what would be NHRA and then also be good for any thing I may get into in the future. Overbuilding I guess would suffice for most classes?

 

Alberto,

I know my cage builder for instance (Scott Rhea @ izzyscustomcages.com) just got done building a NHRA (9.99 legal i belive) AND NASA legal cage in a FD RX7.

If your builder knows the rule books through and through they can make it happen for you!


Neil

 

so how do you get to adjusting the shocks???

-J