Feeling kind of chuffed with myself.

My car is getting more and more track oriented so decided to shave a little weight and gut the doors. I've seen a few threads on using lexan in the doors to keep out the rain but I think this is a good alternative.

I took out the mig and welded a few tabs to the doors. Used the existing window bolts and hardware to secure the glass to the tabs. Job done. Cost - virtually nothing. Seals up almost like OEM (except that weird adjustment when you close the door). They can be removed in 2 minutes with a 10mm wrench.

 

how much weight did that save you?

 

Man, that is freakin' awesome!!!! My passenger window motor died last week and I want the exact setup you've got goin'. I'm having trouble removing the window, any tips on how to separate the window from the 2 metal attachments and motor?

 

+1 on how much weight you saved......


How does this compare to stock when you close the door do you hear more rattling and noise from inside and outside the cabin? Or would you say the noise has decreased?

 

Nice job man. I just gutted my doors over the winter and did the lexan window approach attaching in a somewhat similar way you did yours.

I know the window motor, the door trim and the window tracting saved a decent amount. When I removed mine I think the tracting weighed the most. Also, that black metal panel, window motor and trim add up to a decent amount. I don't have any exact numbers though.

 

very nice... looks so oem too. must resist gutting...

 

Basically there are 3 bolts that attach the window mechanism to the back side of the black finishing panel. There are three holes in the black panel covered with round stickers to seal the hole. Remove the stickers covering the holes and you will see the bolts. Remove bolts and lift out window. Then you can remove the black panel.

Get a pdf of the factory manual on line (google should find you a source). With that you can see the drawings of the door mechanism.

 

I wouldn't do this if your car is a daily driver and you are concerned about noise.

I weighed the black panel and glass on a bathroom scale and it was about 20lbs for one side. Obviously not super accurate but I think for both doors, with trim, gaskets, wiring harness, black panel and glass you are looking at 40-50lbs.

The doors feel significantly lighter when you close them.

 

How is the interior door handle bolted/welded? I think the answer is obvious, but I want to be sure - you simply unbolt the window for events but it's otherwise always in the up position? Or does it just slide into those holders, allowing you to simply slide it in and out? Also, can you lock/unlock the doors only with the key fob now?

For others asking - the weight is significant after you include the interior portion of the door, all the bolts, the aluminum panel that holds it all together, the window motor, the window guide, and the window itself. Easily 25# per side.

 

I welded a tab to the crash bar for the door handle. The window is bolted in the up position, no adjustment. Wiring harness is gone so no lock/unlock. Pulling the harness also seems to kill the hatch lock/unlock with is a pain, but I'm rigging up an extension for the mechanical release.

 

Refined the design a little. Added an aluminum trim panel and used it to anchor the door handle. Cut two 1" access holes for the bolts anchoring the windows.

 

Wow nice.

 

Nice. Care to make a few more? This is the look / cleanness I'm trying to achieve.

 

+1, you build, we buy. I would love to lose the door panels but havent come up with a way to keep the door handles functional without getting too ghetto.