Sound Deadening Removal/Weight Reduction/Cage Prep
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Well....I just finished my first year in TTB with NASA about a month ago. I won 1st place for the Great Lakes region and got Rookie of the Year in TT. I am looking to remove some more weight from the car and prep for a roll cage. This winter's money is pretty much all going to safety. I have removed just about all of the interior that you can. I have actually cut open some of the wire harnesses and removed unused wires too. (I am not quit done with all that yet, still got more to do) I am going all out in removing anything possible that is not being used. All of the small things add up to a lot when it's all said and done.
As of now, I have removed all of the sound deadening on the drivers side and I am working on the center console and passenger side. This is a very tedious task, but I somehow have the patience for it. I probably have about 12 hours in it already. I use a head gun and scrapers to get most of the big stuff out and then wire wheels to finish it off. I take it all the way down to bare metal to make sure I get everything. I have just "rattle canned" it for now. I grabbed some paint that looks closest to the Daytona Blue. I didn't realize the interior is many shades lighter. It's all good though. I am not that worried about it. As long as it's painted and protected. I may just paint the whole floor this color because it does match the outside of the car pretty well.
I plan on doing all of the sound deadening in the trunk too once I'm done in the cabin. After that, I am going to finish up the wire removal and take it to get caged. I am taking it to rollcageguy. com. He is only about 2 hours from my house. I have heard many good things about him. Since i am doing all the prep and all the interior is out he said it would be about $2k, which I think is pretty fair. If his craftsmanship is as good as everyone has told me, then it will be well worth it.
Here are the pics of what I have done so far. I will add more as I complete more work all the way up to when the cage is done. You can see my bucket full of the big chunks in some of the pictures. Probably weighs about 10-12lbs right now.
As of now, I have removed all of the sound deadening on the drivers side and I am working on the center console and passenger side. This is a very tedious task, but I somehow have the patience for it. I probably have about 12 hours in it already. I use a head gun and scrapers to get most of the big stuff out and then wire wheels to finish it off. I take it all the way down to bare metal to make sure I get everything. I have just "rattle canned" it for now. I grabbed some paint that looks closest to the Daytona Blue. I didn't realize the interior is many shades lighter. It's all good though. I am not that worried about it. As long as it's painted and protected. I may just paint the whole floor this color because it does match the outside of the car pretty well.
I plan on doing all of the sound deadening in the trunk too once I'm done in the cabin. After that, I am going to finish up the wire removal and take it to get caged. I am taking it to rollcageguy. com. He is only about 2 hours from my house. I have heard many good things about him. Since i am doing all the prep and all the interior is out he said it would be about $2k, which I think is pretty fair. If his craftsmanship is as good as everyone has told me, then it will be well worth it.
Here are the pics of what I have done so far. I will add more as I complete more work all the way up to when the cage is done. You can see my bucket full of the big chunks in some of the pictures. Probably weighs about 10-12lbs right now.
Last edited by Fixxxercask; Nov 25, 2011 at 02:57 PM.
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I just finished up removing a good amount of that tar/sound deadening... its a good 20lbs off for front foot wells, rear trunk, and some under the center console.
i used dry ice though and boy was it a hit or miss when for the tar to come off as a clean chunk or leave residue. Especially where there was seam sealer that tar did not want to budge... shaving down to the metal might have been easier, cheaper, and a welder can easily stitch weld where the seam sealer use to be with ease! I still have spots here and there i need to finish up!
i used dry ice though and boy was it a hit or miss when for the tar to come off as a clean chunk or leave residue. Especially where there was seam sealer that tar did not want to budge... shaving down to the metal might have been easier, cheaper, and a welder can easily stitch weld where the seam sealer use to be with ease! I still have spots here and there i need to finish up!
Last edited by Voboy; Nov 25, 2011 at 05:23 PM.
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From: Columbus Ohio
Thread Starter
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From: Columbus Ohio
Thread Starter
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From: Columbus Ohio
I just finished up removing a good amount of that tar/sound deadening... its a good 20lbs off for front foot wells, rear trunk, and some under the center console.
i used dry ice though and boy was it a hit or miss when for the tar to come off as a clean chunk or leave residue. Especially where there was seam sealer that tar did not want to budge... shaving down to the metal might have been easier, cheaper, and a welder can easily stitch weld where the seam sealer use to be with ease! I still have spots here and there i need to finish up!
i used dry ice though and boy was it a hit or miss when for the tar to come off as a clean chunk or leave residue. Especially where there was seam sealer that tar did not want to budge... shaving down to the metal might have been easier, cheaper, and a welder can easily stitch weld where the seam sealer use to be with ease! I still have spots here and there i need to finish up!
About that seam sealer....I removed some of it. Is it necessary to be there? I think it just makes everything air tight, but I don't really think it's needed since the whole floor has spot welds everywhere.
Fixxxercask...what class are you planning to run in the future?
I ask this because my car needs 25lb of ballast to make race weight for NASA-PTB. i.e., 3250 lb with fuel and driver after a race...for PTB
In the sprint races I start with a full tank and end up with more than 1/2 to 5/8 remaining depending on the track and how many green laps we get.
So don't waste too much time taking off weight because you likely don't need to for TTB/PTB....and weight down low like that doesn't hurt much.
Anyway, good luck and drive FAST!!!!



I ask this because my car needs 25lb of ballast to make race weight for NASA-PTB. i.e., 3250 lb with fuel and driver after a race...for PTB
In the sprint races I start with a full tank and end up with more than 1/2 to 5/8 remaining depending on the track and how many green laps we get.
So don't waste too much time taking off weight because you likely don't need to for TTB/PTB....and weight down low like that doesn't hurt much.
Anyway, good luck and drive FAST!!!!




Thread Starter
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From: Columbus Ohio
Thread Starter
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Fixxxercask...what class are you planning to run in the future?
I ask this because my car needs 25lb of ballast to make race weight for NASA-PTB. i.e., 3250 lb with fuel and driver after a race...for PTB
In the sprint races I start with a full tank and end up with more than 1/2 to 5/8 remaining depending on the track and how many green laps we get.
So don't waste too much time taking off weight because you likely don't need to for TTB/PTB....and weight down low like that doesn't hurt much.
Anyway, good luck and drive FAST!!!!




I ask this because my car needs 25lb of ballast to make race weight for NASA-PTB. i.e., 3250 lb with fuel and driver after a race...for PTB
In the sprint races I start with a full tank and end up with more than 1/2 to 5/8 remaining depending on the track and how many green laps we get.
So don't waste too much time taking off weight because you likely don't need to for TTB/PTB....and weight down low like that doesn't hurt much.
Anyway, good luck and drive FAST!!!!





I am hoping the car will feel more nimble. I plan to take the car out before the first race and see how it feels. I don't think not having the aero is going to be that noticeable at Mid Ohio. There are two turns that it helps a lot, but I think having a much better power/weight is going to be more significant and will help on the whole course. If the car feels terrible with no aero, I will just add 7 points worth of weight back to the car and put it back on. I have a bracket that I made that has all thread in the middle where I can slide bar bell weights into and secure them. The ends of the bracket has holes that line up with the passenger side seat bracket holes and I bolt it to there and stays pretty secure to the floor.
I may get my comp license and run PTB too this year. Not sure yet. I might just do TTB one more year before I go to PT.
You should come up for Nationals next year. Competition in NASA is getting really tough. My eyes were wide open to that after Nats. I thought I would do better because I do very well at regionals, but I know now that doesn't mean squat!
Last edited by Fixxxercask; Nov 27, 2011 at 07:42 AM.
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Something to protect the bare metal though.
