I sure do...That's my boy! Joseph's a great guy and helps me out alot as I just haven't been able to put in the seat time I really need to get better.

As far as my car, its a 03 base that I first built up with Greddy twins years ago with all the trimmings. When the racing got good to me, I stripped her back down.

Not much to say right now. She's running a revup engine and I still have my original engine. JWT clutch/flywheel combo, Japtrix adjustable suspension, Cobb, Japtrix custom exhaust, Brembo's, 5zigen 10" square setup running on 275's. The interior is mostly stripped out but no cage yet.

I wasn't sure what direction I was going to take the car in until I found out about this so I may start over again while I can.

I'm looking forward to Sebring this weekend and learning more about this program for sure.

 

Rains?

Anyone know anything more about the mumblings of changing the rain tire?

 

Looking to you vet racers for some guidance on setting the C/R on the shocks, stiffness of the sways, and breaking in the new Wavetrac LSD.

I was thinking of starting full soft on both C/R and doing a few laps. Then begin to increase compression until the bumps feel too rough, then back off a tick or two. Then set rebound by driving a few laps using previously-set C, noting how the car leans into the turns, then increase rebound stiffness until the car takes a neutral set without excessive leaning or attitude changes.

Then attack the sway bars based on how the car feels with the C/R set as described above.

Diff break-in? Lots of figure 8s?

 

Scott- in my experience, the swaybar settings come first. If you're able to test, do a five lap session sesion with both bars set at full soft so you know what it feels like, then come in and reset depending on how much lean and under/oversteer you have. Once you get that done, run the next session concentrating on the bars until you get the Z setup the way you like.

I like to use shock settings (bump and rebound) to fine tune the car after getting swaybar settings down. You've got the right ideas on how to progressively tune them. The idea is to change ONE factor and ensure you can FEEL the difference. Unfortunately, it takes a lot of time, so you may not get to do it in this exacting order.

 

Diff break-in- LOTS of figure eights, start slowly and progressively feel whether the lock up is too abrupt or not kicking in. May need to adjust that or add Redline friction modifier to fine tune. After 20 min or so, you may want to check the housing to make sure it's warm, but not burning up, red-hot. I like to let the unit cool down and drain the tranny fluid after initial break-in, but Wavtrac may have other ideas.

 

Have you run the KW Club Sports yet???

 

No rain tires for me this year...maybe next year? Still gotta purchase the crappy Wave Trac Diff, OEM Diff to convert, and new clutch/PP...and maybe some 18x9s....that is an other $2500 or so...

Already in for $3100k for the suspension, $1325 for 4x wheels, $1250 for 4 tires...still need a re-tune after removing my plenum spacer...and at least one local track day to tune the suspension. I estimate I will be close to 10K when the conversion is complete and have all the appropriate spares like rains...

 

BTW: These weights are so unreal...so who can get a DE car down to 3100???

Year Make Model Motor Note Weight (lb)
03-04 Nissan 350Z VQ35DE 3100
05-06 Nissan 350Z VQ35DE 3175
07-08 Nissan 350Z VQ35HR 3300

I weigh about 3250 after a race...not sure how to take off 150 lbs.

IMHO: They should add 150lbs to each car...

 

Diff break-in- LOTS of figure eights, start slowly and progressively feel whether the lock up is too abrupt or not kicking in. May need to adjust that or add Redline friction modifier to fine tune. After 20 min or so, you may want to check the housing to make sure it's warm, but not burning up, red-hot. I like to let the unit cool down and drain the tranny fluid after initial break-in, but Wavtrac may have other ideas.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the tips. So you're saying full soft on sways and C/R, dial in the sways for how I like it, then start my procedure on the C/R settings? I assume I should start with tires that I'm familiar with (i.e. knowing where to put the pressure). I have lots of experience with my greenZ and tire pressures, but basically none with this new Z and the specZ suspension or tires. Bah!

Break in - is the lock up adjustable? Wavetrac does say no friction modifier, or it voids the warranty. I was going to run Motul PA90 since I liked it a lot with the NISMO, but was hoping to break it in, then run an HPDE, then change the fluid before the first NASA event the following weekend. Thoughts?

I hear ya, as I've just had the checkbook open for the past month. Thankfully I had the Motons and NISMO diff from the race car to sell, and am going to start parting out the green Z's goodies here soon as well. I'll run SSR Comp or OEM NISMO 9s until the RPF1 thing is sorted out. I'll look like a drifter, with unmatched F/R wheels. I do have EIGHT 10" RPF1s, so hopefully we get the ok to use 10s in the front and I can put these to use. Otherwise I'll have a set for wet/spares, and need to pick up 9s (assuming they are allowed).

Agreed on the 3100 for the 03-04, which is why I'm sorta happy with having the medium of the 05/06 car. Sad that SOME 05 owners get the screw since not all 05s are the rev-up! When my car hiccup'd for fuel, it weighed 3236 with the driver, so I'm still at least 60# fat since I'd rather not run the fuel down that low. That was with the stock cats, the passenger seat, and four 18x10 RPF1s. The cats and seat removal/swap should drop me 40ish pounds, and I was going to gun some of the headlight wiring and internals of it. I figure I can get to within 20# of the spec weight, leaving me some wiggle room for changes in body weight, rubber, etc. Have you ever felt the hatch without the struts? OMG is that mother heavy. I forget if we can change the glass, I'm thinking not, but I'm too lazy right now to look it up. I'll also be adding the NISMO wing (can you say aero?) and rear diffuser, so some weight will go back to the rear of 'er. How to find another 20# is beyond me, let alone another 75# on top of that for the 03/04 cars.

I still need to tune for the HP limits, but that will have to come later for sure.

JOY! UPS just delivered my BFG banners and suit patches. I ordered all the NISMO/NISSAN stuff today. The z already has most of the stuff I needed, but the forms specifically cautioned against using old stickers, so I went ahead with the new ones. I needed the suit patch anyway.

NISSAN all over the place, and NISMO (black with red "O"). Score.

 

So far I have sold my Tein Coil-over for $1000, set of 17x10 5Zigen wheels for $800, a set of used Enkei 17x9 for $500, and bunch used Hoosiers for $700, and have my old Hotchkis sways bars FS for $250, and another set of 5Zigens to sell for $800...and a Plenum spacer...and what else??? oh yes, 2x new sticker HoHo R6 in 275-40-17 for $250 ea...and a few more used R6s...

 

I know I can hit 3100lbs in my '04. It is around 3050 right now with me in it and half tank. I would have to add a few things back in for meet Spec Z, but It would still be below 3100. I might have to run ballast actually depending on how much fuel would be left after a race.

 

My KWs are on and I'll be trying them at Pikes Peak International raceway this weekend. Also plan to do some tire testing with the R1s.

Scott- you're right about the Wavetrac (I haven't got mine yet) it's not adjustable. The NISMO diff I've used in T2 for the past four seasons is adjustable and responds well to a bit of friction modifier. It's been a very good unit, reliable with just the right amount of lockup for my taste.

As for tires, yes, using tires you're familiar with for testing and break-in makes sense. No reason to waste a new set of BFGs unless you've got $$ to burn.

 

Wow, that's light (with you in it!) with a cage. I guess I'll need to trim mine down a bit!

Keep on sellin' it!

Thanks for the feedback. I love my NISMO as well. The internals were WPC treeated, 60% lock, feels great. I think I'll just run the BFGs for one session to see how they feel at the test day. Speaking of BFG, I got the first shipment of stuff from JMG! Still need the patches, but these will get me started!

 

David,

Are you using the NISMO diff that came stock in the NISMO 350Z? That is legal to use in Spec Z. The rule states that you may use the Wave Trac, you are not required to use it.

 

[QUOTE=laze1; Still gotta purchase the crappy Wave Trac Diff, OEM Diff to convert,
QUOTE]

I can give you my OEM Diff + the money for yours up front if that will help.

 

My NISMO diff is the 1.5 unit that I've used in T2. The WaveTrac diff will be the next acquisition. This weekend I ran the KV suspension in an SCCA race and after some initial setup issues (yep, the rear is too high), found the mechanical grip was a good match for the 285-30-18 R1s allowed for that class.

 

I think I will be buying a NISMO diff...

 

Unfortunately, we all have to have the WaveTrac unit by the Nationals. I wish the rules would allow both diffs, as the NISMO unit has performed superbly.

 

Clifton just said the Nismo unit is legal.

 

No, Clifton thinks the Nismo Z came with a real diff, maybe the whole Spec Z Board thinks so too, keeping fingers crossed Nismo diff is option.