Trailer hitch for 07 coupe.
I posted this in the Interior/Exterior forum and have gotten no hits so I'm reposting here since folks who track their cars might be more familiar with the problem.
I am considering a small trailer to haul tires and tools to track events. This has been discussed before in the track forums. I have an 07 Enthusiast.
Curt Hitches makes an excellent hitch that looks very easy to install but only up through the 06 model. Nothing for the 07. I've emailed Curt but haven't heard back from them yet.
I've got the FSM for the 06 and the 07 coupe and I can see no difference at all between the bumper, rear fascia and exhaust.
So my question is this: Is there a difference in the configuration of the rear of the 06 vs the 07 that would make the hitch designed for the 06 not work on the 07? Or are there other differences that would come in to play?
I am considering a small trailer to haul tires and tools to track events. This has been discussed before in the track forums. I have an 07 Enthusiast.
Curt Hitches makes an excellent hitch that looks very easy to install but only up through the 06 model. Nothing for the 07. I've emailed Curt but haven't heard back from them yet.
I've got the FSM for the 06 and the 07 coupe and I can see no difference at all between the bumper, rear fascia and exhaust.
So my question is this: Is there a difference in the configuration of the rear of the 06 vs the 07 that would make the hitch designed for the 06 not work on the 07? Or are there other differences that would come in to play?
I had one on my 2006 and sold the bumper bar and trailer hitch to Scott300. I can' think of any issues from a model year difference perspective.
However, you will need to weld the bumper bar to chassis mounting brackets as they are designed to deform in "crash". So that means they will deform when the trailer puts a load on them. So you have to weld up the seams in the mounts to prevent them from deforming from happening.
However, you will need to weld the bumper bar to chassis mounting brackets as they are designed to deform in "crash". So that means they will deform when the trailer puts a load on them. So you have to weld up the seams in the mounts to prevent them from deforming from happening.
I've had one on my 2005 Z since, well, 2005. Once I got the bumper brackets seam-welded (I bought a second set since I figured the original set had broken welds, and I was right), I've had zero problems. Of course, my tire trailer with all of my equipment is less than 500 lbs -- and I wouldn't go much beyond that weight without changing how the hitch was built.
All the information you seek is here pretty much:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...re-thread.html
The hitches out there will work for any year Z.
-J
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...re-thread.html
The hitches out there will work for any year Z.
-J
Thanks Jason and thanks for the PM about welding the brackets. It looks do-able.
And sorry about starting a new 'trailer' thread, I just wasn't able to find out why there where no hitches listed for the 07-08 models.
The logistics of going to tracks a long way from home gets pretty complicated. The only major downside to a small trailer is that when my wife goes with me, she will be stuck at the track since we will only have my car.
If I get a full size trailer at least she'll have my truck if she wants to go somewhere else.
But my truck is old.
Clearly I need a new truck and a new 20' trailer.
And sorry about starting a new 'trailer' thread, I just wasn't able to find out why there where no hitches listed for the 07-08 models.
The logistics of going to tracks a long way from home gets pretty complicated. The only major downside to a small trailer is that when my wife goes with me, she will be stuck at the track since we will only have my car.
If I get a full size trailer at least she'll have my truck if she wants to go somewhere else.
But my truck is old.
Clearly I need a new truck and a new 20' trailer.
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^ I hear ya..
I will say this though....
-For local 50miles or less events - having the autoX trailer and hitch on the Z is very nice and convenient..
-For farther events, or ALL day events, where the wifey is coming along - hands down having your own trailer and truck are well well worth it!
Mount a lock box on the front of the trailer tongue and work off the trailer lock box when it comes to tools......just in case the wife leaves with the truck. lock the box when your out on the track...etc..
also, a suggestion on the trailer length - the Z is just a nose hair over 14 feet long...a 16 foot trailer will allow you to mount the wheels in the front of the Z - use a pole going through all the wheels from one end to the other - see my trailer build thread....
an 18 foot is ok, but i would perfer a 16 foot, especially if you have the bed of a truck to carry other items..or even the wheels..
20 foot is way overkill and towing a 20 foot trailer becomes a chore.... turning radius, backing up, etc...a 16 foot is usually shorter than the truck pulling it...the difference in towing a 16 over a 20 is pretty significant...
i hope some of that helps...
-J
I will say this though....
-For local 50miles or less events - having the autoX trailer and hitch on the Z is very nice and convenient..
-For farther events, or ALL day events, where the wifey is coming along - hands down having your own trailer and truck are well well worth it!
Mount a lock box on the front of the trailer tongue and work off the trailer lock box when it comes to tools......just in case the wife leaves with the truck. lock the box when your out on the track...etc..
also, a suggestion on the trailer length - the Z is just a nose hair over 14 feet long...a 16 foot trailer will allow you to mount the wheels in the front of the Z - use a pole going through all the wheels from one end to the other - see my trailer build thread....
an 18 foot is ok, but i would perfer a 16 foot, especially if you have the bed of a truck to carry other items..or even the wheels..
20 foot is way overkill and towing a 20 foot trailer becomes a chore.... turning radius, backing up, etc...a 16 foot is usually shorter than the truck pulling it...the difference in towing a 16 over a 20 is pretty significant...
i hope some of that helps...
-J
I have a 24' trailer and wish it was a 28'. I have some nice cabinets and I load up my full toolbox so it's tight when I figure in my bicycle and a second spare for the trailer. One of these days I want to figure out how to keep a grill in the trailer too. :P
^ I hear ya..
I will say this though....
-For local 50miles or less events - having the autoX trailer and hitch on the Z is very nice and convenient..
-For farther events, or ALL day events, where the wifey is coming along - hands down having your own trailer and truck are well well worth it!
Mount a lock box on the front of the trailer tongue and work off the trailer lock box when it comes to tools......just in case the wife leaves with the truck. lock the box when your out on the track...etc..
also, a suggestion on the trailer length - the Z is just a nose hair over 14 feet long...a 16 foot trailer will allow you to mount the wheels in the front of the Z - use a pole going through all the wheels from one end to the other - see my trailer build thread....
an 18 foot is ok, but i would perfer a 16 foot, especially if you have the bed of a truck to carry other items..or even the wheels..
20 foot is way overkill and towing a 20 foot trailer becomes a chore.... turning radius, backing up, etc...a 16 foot is usually shorter than the truck pulling it...the difference in towing a 16 over a 20 is pretty significant...
i hope some of that helps...
-J
I will say this though....
-For local 50miles or less events - having the autoX trailer and hitch on the Z is very nice and convenient..
-For farther events, or ALL day events, where the wifey is coming along - hands down having your own trailer and truck are well well worth it!
Mount a lock box on the front of the trailer tongue and work off the trailer lock box when it comes to tools......just in case the wife leaves with the truck. lock the box when your out on the track...etc..
also, a suggestion on the trailer length - the Z is just a nose hair over 14 feet long...a 16 foot trailer will allow you to mount the wheels in the front of the Z - use a pole going through all the wheels from one end to the other - see my trailer build thread....
an 18 foot is ok, but i would perfer a 16 foot, especially if you have the bed of a truck to carry other items..or even the wheels..
20 foot is way overkill and towing a 20 foot trailer becomes a chore.... turning radius, backing up, etc...a 16 foot is usually shorter than the truck pulling it...the difference in towing a 16 over a 20 is pretty significant...
i hope some of that helps...
-J
As far as a trailer to tow the Z I also have a tractor that I would like to haul. For the tractor, plus an implement, I will need a 20 footer at least.
guys, I completely disagree... I have commented in those roark threads as well -- on the roark designed hitch....
for one, if you read his old post, hes not the designer, but rather a guy that took the idea to a welder/fabricator and that guy was just a "handy" guy, not a designer or implementation thinker of what he was doing....and how the product was gonna be used, loads applied, etc...
the biggest and worst issue with the roark designed hitch is that he drilled completely through the impact beam leaving "non bearing area" locations in the bolt mount up.
--- there are post to where another user cracked his beam due to this open shank fastener condition....
The hitch design itself is fine...but the bolts mounting the hitch going through "all parts" of the rear Z impact beam is the problem. (not the bolts themselves mind u)....
by going through all parts, he turned that "joint" into a friction/clamp application, and had no sleeves at a bare minimum for install. - crushing the beam when torquing down the bolts...
anyone with a roark should NOT drill through the entire beam, but only through the first WALL of aluminum and install the bolts that way.
-further, drilling all the way through the beam, then completely kills the strength of the Z impact beam further than having drilled holes only on one side....
so, if you have a roark, i suggest mounting as i specified....
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Feb 27, 2013 at 10:32 AM.
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