350Z Gutted/Weight Loss Pics NASA TTC Prep
06-25-2014, 04:56 AM
#21
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You should consider Tomei Ti exhaust and y pipe. They are super light, which help you shave about 40lb over stock.
My car is at 3,200 lbs with me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. I feel it is already fast. I can't imagine how fast the car would go weight in at 2,940 lbs.
My car is at 3,200 lbs with me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. I feel it is already fast. I can't imagine how fast the car would go weight in at 2,940 lbs.
Stock cats weigh 26.4lbs:
https://my350z.com/forum/8518753-post39.html
Tomei claim their test pipes weight 8lbs
Saving 18lbs, not bad at all, and not too pricey.
Supposedly the full Tomei setup would save around 61lbs, I wonder if you could run their exhaust w/o the muffler for even more weight savings?
Last edited by l30thelion; 06-25-2014 at 05:57 AM.
06-25-2014, 05:10 AM
#22
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The doors are a good bang for buck weight wise, definitely.
The car was weighed a few times at the NASA event at Sebring, after the warmup/practice session w/ 17x8 lightweight wheels w/ 1/8 tank of fuel, it weighed 2981, I weigh 165, so the car weighed 2726, which was way lower that I expected, I panicked a bit, was under by 50lbs.
For the first timed session I switched to 5zigen 17x10s (which are 10lbs heavier than the 17x8s for a total of 40lbs) and filled the tank some and was later DQ'd for being underweight by 8lbs!!
Finally I filled the tank up completely and fortunately weighed 2952lbs (over by 12lbs) after the 3rd session. At least its simple, I just have to make sure the tank is full before going out every session and know I'll be over by 11-12lbs after.
Last edited by l30thelion; 06-25-2014 at 05:19 AM.
06-25-2014, 05:15 AM
#23
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How much weight can you save, if you were gutting out each door? I am consider gutting out the all the internal of the doors, such as power window, glass, and unnessarry hardware, but keep the plastic door panel for clean look. I think saving weight on the doors are very critical, because removing front and high weight at the door helps bring back the weight balance of the car closer to OEM 53:47 weight ratio or better. I track my car, but I am not ready or brave enough to remove all the front dash and plastic door panel. I can live with removing headliner and carpet.
06-25-2014, 10:24 AM
#24
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http://earthxmotorsports.com/shop/etx36c/
You may have mentioned above removing your AC compressor/condenser, which will improve weight(obviously) and cooling allowing better flow through your radiator. What about your coolant tank and windshieild fluid tanks? can you put those in your trunk? The OEM strut bar is rather heavy (and high) can that be swapped out with a cusco? This may be on the extreme side but can you core-out your OEM aluminum crash bars? I think I cut 8lbs by stratically coring holes in each bump. Did you remove the dampening weight and/or rear wiper assembly in the hatch lid - it's not much but every pounds counts and starts to add up!
Last edited by bealljk; 06-25-2014 at 10:27 AM.
06-25-2014, 10:41 AM
#25
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excuse me if I'm breaking any of the sauctioning body rules as I don't know them - but can you move your battery to the trunk? have you considered a lighter weight battery? I know Braile makes a killer battery, maybe look into EarthX. It's a colorado company $350 will buy you a 3.5lbs battery that has 600 pulse cranking amps (I disregard cold cranking amps because if it's 'cold' than I'm not in the car, I'm in my truck).
http://earthxmotorsports.com/shop/etx36c/
You may have mentioned above removing your AC compressor/condenser, which will improve weight(obviously) and cooling allowing better flow through your radiator. What about your coolant tank and windshieild fluid tanks? can you put those in your trunk? The OEM strut bar is rather heavy (and high) can that be swapped out with a cusco? This may be on the extreme side but can you core-out your OEM aluminum crash bars? I think I cut 8lbs by stratically coring holes in each bump. Did you remove the dampening weight and/or rear wiper assembly in the hatch lid - it's not much but every pounds counts and starts to add up!
http://earthxmotorsports.com/shop/etx36c/
You may have mentioned above removing your AC compressor/condenser, which will improve weight(obviously) and cooling allowing better flow through your radiator. What about your coolant tank and windshieild fluid tanks? can you put those in your trunk? The OEM strut bar is rather heavy (and high) can that be swapped out with a cusco? This may be on the extreme side but can you core-out your OEM aluminum crash bars? I think I cut 8lbs by stratically coring holes in each bump. Did you remove the dampening weight and/or rear wiper assembly in the hatch lid - it's not much but every pounds counts and starts to add up!
Windshield fluid tank is gone completely, nice idea about the coolant tank relocation. I still have windshield wipers and motors since I still drive to events.
OEM Strut bar would probably count as a mod so would take points, will have to look into that though!
OEM crash bars removed already =)
Hatch is gutted pretty good, need to add lexan to cut more.
Great ideas, thx!
06-25-2014, 11:44 AM
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I'm a huge fan the NASA TT Classification system, especially the dyno re-class method, and feel it is the best way to be competitive.
I've chosen to run the car in TTC now w/ a dyno re-class of 2940lbs/235hp:
+10 R6 255/45/17
+ 2 Springs
+ 3 Shocks (Truechoice Phase IV DA Koni)
+ 1 Upgrade Diff
+ 2 StopTech Calipers
Total: +18 TTC
I'm thinking of going to stock calipers and running A6s, that would probably be better use of points as A6s would give me 1 second in lap times vs the R6s ......stoptechs are probably not worth a second.
Here's my info for when I ran TTD and some other info regarding running the Z based on dyno re-class (forgive me if I ramble on a bit, hopefully someone will this information useful):
Dyno Reclass TTD* @ 3195lbs/235hp
+ 7 for the (*)
+10 R6 225/45/17
- 4 225mm Tire
+ 2 Springs
+ 3 Shocks (DA Koni)
+ 1 Upgrade Diff
Total: +19 TTD
Adjusted Wt/Hp Calc:
3195lbs/235hp = 13.59 + .8 (for tire < 255mm) - .05 for weight = 14.34....pretty close to 14.25 min.
Copied from another thread that I posted way back when: https://my350z.com/forum/9559719-post5.html
Yes, the Wt/Hp reclass is the most flexible to way to class a car and in most cases the most competitive.
The nice thing about the NASA Classification system is the various options you can play with. I believe the Z can be very competitive in TTD/TTC and probably TTB (a member on here, Fixxxercask, is gunning for TTB at Nationals). Also want to clarify that any car can be dyno re-classed (mine is stock)...no engine mods or swaps or anything is required....simply get a dyno done (be very careful to follow the exact procedure and fill out proper form) and send an email out to the National director.
Here are some actual reclass configurations for the Z based on Wt/Hp:
3440 lbs / 240whp / TTD / 245mm
3370 lbs / 235whp / TTD / 245mm
3195 lbs / 235whp / TTD* / 245mm
3260 lbs / 240whp / TTD* / 245mm
3360 lbs / 260whp / TTD** / 245mm
2940 lbs / 235whp / TTC / 255mm
3005 lbs / 240whp / TTC / 255mm
2890 lbs / 240whp / TTC / 255mm (must end up in TTB though)
3190 lbs / 306whp / TTB / 265mm
Not sure if this sort of info is sticky worthy but since NASA TT and PT use the same classification system it could be helpful to others as they look to compete in TT/PT to have reference info like this and what others have found to be good setups for TT/PT competition. Maybe in the road course modification guide thread?
I've chosen to run the car in TTC now w/ a dyno re-class of 2940lbs/235hp:
+10 R6 255/45/17
+ 2 Springs
+ 3 Shocks (Truechoice Phase IV DA Koni)
+ 1 Upgrade Diff
+ 2 StopTech Calipers
Total: +18 TTC
I'm thinking of going to stock calipers and running A6s, that would probably be better use of points as A6s would give me 1 second in lap times vs the R6s ......stoptechs are probably not worth a second.
Here's my info for when I ran TTD and some other info regarding running the Z based on dyno re-class (forgive me if I ramble on a bit, hopefully someone will this information useful):
Dyno Reclass TTD* @ 3195lbs/235hp
+ 7 for the (*)
+10 R6 225/45/17
- 4 225mm Tire
+ 2 Springs
+ 3 Shocks (DA Koni)
+ 1 Upgrade Diff
Total: +19 TTD
Adjusted Wt/Hp Calc:
3195lbs/235hp = 13.59 + .8 (for tire < 255mm) - .05 for weight = 14.34....pretty close to 14.25 min.
Copied from another thread that I posted way back when: https://my350z.com/forum/9559719-post5.html
Yes, the Wt/Hp reclass is the most flexible to way to class a car and in most cases the most competitive.
The nice thing about the NASA Classification system is the various options you can play with. I believe the Z can be very competitive in TTD/TTC and probably TTB (a member on here, Fixxxercask, is gunning for TTB at Nationals). Also want to clarify that any car can be dyno re-classed (mine is stock)...no engine mods or swaps or anything is required....simply get a dyno done (be very careful to follow the exact procedure and fill out proper form) and send an email out to the National director.
Here are some actual reclass configurations for the Z based on Wt/Hp:
3440 lbs / 240whp / TTD / 245mm
3370 lbs / 235whp / TTD / 245mm
3195 lbs / 235whp / TTD* / 245mm
3260 lbs / 240whp / TTD* / 245mm
3360 lbs / 260whp / TTD** / 245mm
2940 lbs / 235whp / TTC / 255mm
3005 lbs / 240whp / TTC / 255mm
2890 lbs / 240whp / TTC / 255mm (must end up in TTB though)
3190 lbs / 306whp / TTB / 265mm
Not sure if this sort of info is sticky worthy but since NASA TT and PT use the same classification system it could be helpful to others as they look to compete in TT/PT to have reference info like this and what others have found to be good setups for TT/PT competition. Maybe in the road course modification guide thread?
If I do a reclass and end up in TTD, do I have to limit my mods and be required to stay in TTD? or can I add 20+ points to go back in TTC?
Expect PMs in the future!
06-25-2014, 11:55 AM
#27
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As someone who plans to making the jump from HPDE4 to TT, this was a big help. Looks like I could be much more competitive with that dyno reclass.. Gives more room for points in TTC class.
If I do a reclass and end up in TTD, do I have to limit my mods and be required to stay in TTD? or can I add 20+ points to go back in TTC?
Expect PMs in the future!
If I do a reclass and end up in TTD, do I have to limit my mods and be required to stay in TTD? or can I add 20+ points to go back in TTC?
Expect PMs in the future!
BUT, ensure that you are within the "Adjusted Weight/Power Ratio" for the class you are in (TTC 12.00:1 min).
06-25-2014, 12:14 PM
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3195 lbs / 235whp / TTD* / 245mm
3260 lbs / 240whp / TTD* / 245mm
3360 lbs / 260whp / TTD** / 245mm
How come the above can be classified in TTD even though the power/weight ratio is under 14?
3260 lbs / 240whp / TTD* / 245mm
3360 lbs / 260whp / TTD** / 245mm
How come the above can be classified in TTD even though the power/weight ratio is under 14?
06-25-2014, 01:16 PM
#29
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In my particular case, when I ran TTD, this is the Adjusted Wt/Hp Calc:
3195lbs/235hp = 13.59 + .8 (for tire < 255mm) - .05 for weight = 14.34....pretty close to 14.25 min.
I may be crazy but I love the complexity of the TT rules, you can play w/ so many variables, this is what I ponder sometimes for fun:
06-25-2014, 02:16 PM
#30
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Someone should build an app or software, where you can fill in all these variables, so you can play with the results to get an edge over other racers in choosing to stay in or step up in race classes.
06-27-2014, 06:51 AM
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Yooooo!
I only drive to the track out of necessity, hoping to make the car a trailer queen soon
I take all my tools and 4 big *** tires in the car (almost).......I actually drive to the events w/ a tire in the rear which doesn't allow the hatch to close completely, looks really idiotic. I also never wash the car, I mean its been years since it was washed, seriously. But my philosophy is the only thing that matters is what the clock says!
06-27-2014, 08:45 PM
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Would be great if SpecZ allowed for a car like mine at least weight wise, then I could cage it and run TT and SpecZ.
Last edited by l30thelion; 06-27-2014 at 08:48 PM.
07-17-2014, 05:45 AM
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How much weight did the front part of the cage add?
My car is at the shop getting a cage, sucks getting a bunch of weight put back in but safety first.
I'm hoping I can offset most of the cage weight by running less gas and some more gutting.
Now I need to get a steering wheel and adapter, any suggestions?
Last edited by l30thelion; 07-17-2014 at 05:50 AM.