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with my mild steel hood vents my OEM hood is down to ~19lbs ... 4lbs less is the best I could do...
Do you run lexan windows? Trying to figure out how to delete the 40lbs of window motors/regulators, glass, panel and still have a hard-mounted/non-opening lexan window.
The rear window on the hatch is lexan. Front isnt worth the hassle (scratches) for the 1-2lb weight savings... dont run side windows at all. Just run a door skin that i made.
The rear window on the hatch is lexan. Front isnt worth the hassle (scratches) for the 1-2lb weight savings... dont run side windows at all. Just run a door skin that i made.
yea - front wouldn't be smart ... I think the OEM glass windshield is structural as well.
contemplating gutting the hood but a little hesitant, dont want to save 8lbs and have a world of problems... id run it with hood pins obviously but is that enough?? Has anyone ran a gutted hook with pins for a substantial amount of time? Worth it?
Old question and kind of useless now since you went fiberglass, but I've gutted a hood before/used pins and regretted it. Made it very flimsy, didn't save a significant amount of weight and would bend by it's own weight with the hood rod only holding one side. Never flew open on me though
Old question and kind of useless now since you went fiberglass, but I've gutted a hood before/used pins and regretted it. Made it very flimsy, didn't save a significant amount of weight and would bend by it's own weight with the hood rod only holding one side. Never flew open on me though
Yea i know a few ppl that have gutted the stock hood and same thing happened... most of them ended up taping up the front of it to the bumper to prevent it from wobbling at speed... this is just a bad idea and still comes in heavier than just biting the bullet and going fiberglass.
with my mild steel hood vents my OEM hood is down to ~19lbs ... 4lbs less is the best I could do...
Do you run lexan windows? Trying to figure out how to delete the 40lbs of window motors/regulators, glass, panel and still have a hard-mounted/non-opening lexan window.
You can weld a small piece to hold the stock window in the closed position and gut everything else.
^I want to move in that direction...I want to eliminate the OEM glass/reg/panel all-together ... If I can pin-in a cloned lexan I think that's optimal. I have a few ideas on this process ... I'll post it up in my build thread as to not hi-jack Dblocks thread!
^I want to move in that direction...I want to eliminate the OEM glass/reg/panel all-together ... If I can pin-in a cloned lexan I think that's optimal. I have a few ideas on this process ... I'll post it up in my build thread as to not hi-jack Dblocks thread!
haha no worries.go on and post in here if u want... interested to see what you come up with.. I have enough spare lexan to make some windows but not planning on it anytime soon... would be nice as a plug for towing in the rain
That is super light! 2682lbs is the lightest ive seen so far.
This is without driver.... add 170lbs. Theres a few LS swapped Z's that ive seen weighing in 50ish lbs more. So technically theyve taken more weight out... i just dont know where
simply impressive ... I need to get on a scale but I think I'm around 2950lbs ...
Sorry for so many questions -
do you know how much your cage weighed?
Did you weight your door assembly when your removed them?
How did you paint your rear hatch and hood??
simply impressive ... I need to get on a scale but I think I'm around 2950lbs ...
Sorry for so many questions -
do you know how much your cage weighed?
Did you weight your door assembly when your removed them?
How did you paint your rear hatch and hood??
No problem! I dont know exactly what the cage weighs... i used 1.75'x.095 DOM. Its pretty heavy.
I think the 350z door assembly with everything in and on it is around 90lbs.
The hood i wrapped with CF wrap... the rear hatch I sprayed with a paint gun but since i didnt use any body filler on the fiberglass it looks like shat and im most likely just going to throw rap on that too. Same goes for the doors although those came out really nice!
I've got that fiberglass hatch and I'm mostly done with bondo'ing it and I'm at a cross roads of spending $500-$800 to have it professionally sprayed/cleared or should I diy with my qx1 color matched paint, a 2k kit with base/mid/clear is $120.
My hold up is that the hatch isnt awesome, it was sorta a 'rescue', unbranded and it may just get thrown in the trash at some point...
I've got that fiberglass hatch and I'm mostly done with bondo'ing it and I'm at a cross roads of spending $500-$800 to have it professionally sprayed/cleared or should I diy with my qx1 color matched paint, a 2k kit with base/mid/clear is $120.
My hold up is that the hatch isnt awesome, it was sorta a 'rescue', unbranded and it may just get thrown in the trash at some point...
Honestly a cheap wrap on amazon or ebay is like 20 bucks as long as you're willing to do the work and it covers up a lot of crap... just a PITA to install. Lets see some pictures of this hatch. What does it weigh?
**** the finish on that is better than my hatch... what I did is hit it with primer, then wrap on that.
encouraging...I think I want to do a last round of bondo’ing to fill in some minor dips and I’ll hit it with some fine grit paper...I’m leaning towards a color matched spray paint...the base, mid, and clear is $70 off eBay ... I sorta want the experience of rattle-can’ing it.
