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Autocross/Road SCCA Solo II, SCCA Club Racing, Redline Track Events, Speed Trial, Speed Ventures, Grand-Am Cup, JGTC, Procar Australia

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Old 03-06-2017, 09:26 PM   #321
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BRAP!!




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Old 03-16-2017, 12:15 PM   #322
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Looking for advice on the harness bar position. Im planning on putting a horizontal bar right behind the seat in the plane of the main hoop with a belt angle of 10 degrees down. My question is, is there a minimum distance required from the mounting point of the shoulder bars to the seat openings? I read the SCCA, NASA and FIA rule books and cant find anything but couldve sworn I heard someone say there was a minimum requirement... If there is not minimum distance required can i run it fairly close to the seat and still take up enough slack? If not i can always design the bar to bend outwards (away from the seat)... Any advice is appreciated!!
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:59 PM   #323
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harness bar added
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:53 AM   #324
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harness bar added
Looking good! The X came out very symmetrical and the overall lay looks great. How is the clearance from the seat to the bar? Make sure its not below the shoulder line.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:34 AM   #325
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Looking good! The X came out very symmetrical and the overall lay looks great. How is the clearance from the seat to the bar? Make sure its not below the shoulder line.
Clearance from back of seat is good. Realized had the seat way to far back when initially mocking it up. The bar will put the harness at a 10 degree angle per fia rule book.

Thinking of doing a taco gusset on the lower side of the front X... does anyone know if I have to cut the tips of the triangle out to leave the welds exposed or is it OK if the gusset covers some weld. Have read contradicting info and nothing concrete in rule book....
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:54 PM   #326
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Clearance from back of seat is good. Realized had the seat way to far back when initially mocking it up. The bar will put the harness at a 10 degree angle per fia rule book.

Thinking of doing a taco gusset on the lower side of the front X... does anyone know if I have to cut the tips of the triangle out to leave the welds exposed or is it OK if the gusset covers some weld. Have read contradicting info and nothing concrete in rule book....
I prefer the taco-gusset, light and strong. I really like when people dimple punch the center. You can use the punched hole to back-purge during welding if you decide to go crazy. I think the cut at the tip is for you to decide, as far as I read, the FIA doesn't specify that detail...which means it's open to interpretation.

If you leave it as a solid taco, I would cut the tips to allow out gasing to keep your weld from blowing out as you end the bead. It does look cleaner when the weld doesn't bunch up at the corner and there is little stength to gain by a complete weld to the tip.
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:22 PM   #327
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I prefer the taco-gusset, light and strong. I really like when people dimple punch the center. You can use the punched hole to back-purge during welding if you decide to go crazy. I think the cut at the tip is for you to decide, as far as I read, the FIA doesn't specify that detail...which means it's open to interpretation.

If you leave it as a solid taco, I would cut the tips to allow out gasing to keep your weld from blowing out as you end the bead. It does look cleaner when the weld doesn't bunch up at the corner and there is little stength to gain by a complete weld to the tip.
They're going to be solid tacos as I don't have dimple dies I agree they look dope, but not worth $300 for one time use IMO.
Thanks for the tip though.
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:32 PM   #328
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Quick question from page 1 or 2 you said you removed your A.C..... Was their a noticeable difference from not cranking that pully? I hardly ever use my A.C. Because I like the windows down. Any drawbacks from removing it other than the no cold air in the summer factor...

My car is basically a weekend toy that never gets driven on a track or anything....
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:40 PM   #329
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They're going to be solid tacos as I don't have dimple dies I agree they look dope, but not worth $300 for one time use IMO.
Thanks for the tip though.
If you realllly want the dimples, you can hole saw the location and find a local fabrication shop to finish the dimples. Little shops are usual open to that stuff.

Either that, or look into a tool rental for something like that. It is never wise to spend $300 for 15 mins of use.
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:44 PM   #330
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Quick question from page 1 or 2 you said you removed your A.C..... Was their a noticeable difference from not cranking that pully? I hardly ever use my A.C. Because I like the windows down. Any drawbacks from removing it other than the no cold air in the summer factor...

My car is basically a weekend toy that never gets driven on a track or anything....
If ur AC isn't running l, there's no load on that pulley so it's basically free wheeling... there is no noticeable difference. You will however loose a decent amount of weight if u removed the compressor, lines and condenser. You will also free up space in the engine compartment. I did this primarily for the weight savings, especially since it's up front. If it's a street car I'd keep it. Defroster will work better and you won't ruin resale value. Just my 2 cents
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Old 03-17-2017, 05:39 PM   #331
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Still needs some trimming but general shape is there.

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Old 03-17-2017, 08:13 PM   #332
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Still needs some trimming but general shape is there.

Are you going to keep the bottom of the taco collinear with the bottom of the seat belt bar ?
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:46 PM   #333
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I really like where you placed the cage, for me a big guy (6'4 2XXlbs) this is the first time I've seen someone put it behind the driver divide...
so much room for the driver !

more
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:29 AM   #334
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Are you going to keep the bottom of the taco collinear with the bottom of the seat belt bar ?
That's the plan, are you thinking there is an issue? Please voice concerns now before I weld it in.
Ideally I was going to line the bottom of the taco up perfect with the drivers bar but fia rules specificy that taco gussets in main hoop need to be 3x tube diameter.... so that's what I got.

@king baby
I'm 6'0 and even having the cage where it is leaves not too much space for driver, can't imagine it being mounting on lower floor...if it were on the lower floor it'd start to get in the way of entry/exit of vehicle too... it'll b hard enough with door bsrs, don't need any other obstacles!
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:15 PM   #335
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That's the plan, are you thinking there is an issue? Please voice concerns now before I weld it in.
Ideally I was going to line the bottom of the taco up perfect with the drivers bar but fia rules specificy that taco gussets in main hoop need to be 3x tube diameter.... so that's what I got.

@king baby
I'm 6'0 and even having the cage where it is leaves not too much space for driver, can't imagine it being mounting on lower floor...if it were on the lower floor it'd start to get in the way of entry/exit of vehicle too... it'll b hard enough with door bsrs, don't need any other obstacles!
I was only asking for me an aesthetic point of view. If that's what you end up, it's obviously only right to follow the rules. The fia spec will cover you for nasa and scca of course.

I'm just asking the dumb questions, I haven't looked at the rule book in a while. My project has been lonely as I become days away from my wedding!
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:33 PM   #336
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I was only asking for me an aesthetic point of view. If that's what you end up, it's obviously only right to follow the rules. The fia spec will cover you for nasa and scca of course.

I'm just asking the dumb questions, I haven't looked at the rule book in a while. My project has been lonely as I become days away from my wedding!
Taking the plunge!! Congrats, hope everything goes well! I'm sure ull have great weather seeing as u dont live in the goddamn tundra lol. I was at Barber last weekend with the race bike and it was in the 50s... not happy -_-

Anyways, welded in the gusset and got the a pillar footings complete.

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Old 03-21-2017, 12:40 PM   #337
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Does anyone have any reason why i shouldnt weld 16ga sheet steel over the location where i will be welding my main hoop footing? My thoughts are itd be easier to weld the 16ga to the thin car sheet metal then weld the footing to that... Or some tips on welding my 1/4" footing to 20ish ga sheet?
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:45 PM   #338
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Very fricken nice! You almost look like you know what you are doing
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:52 PM   #339
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Very fricken nice! You almost look like you know what you are doing
Almost!!
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:47 PM   #340
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Very fricken nice! You almost look like you know what you are doing
Almost!!
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