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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 06:25 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by armt350z
On my LS you have to loop it. If you block it, the motor overheats. But then again its like 3 inches of hose and 2 hose clamps.
I see... I might do that as no one ejse has chimed in... in the z its more like 4ft of hose
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 12:51 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Dblock55
I see... I might do that as no one ejse has chimed in... in the z its more like 4ft of hose
Nobody else has chimed in because no one else has wanted to pull the heater core. What's it weigh, like three pounds?
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:19 PM
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Haha someone's gotta be a pioneer I guess ;D. The heater core plus the blower unit along with all other things involved had some significant weight loss. Don't have a scale to weigh it but it's more like 15 lbs not 3.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 01:06 PM
  #64  
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I saw you were looking at how to address your heating pipes. Take a look at my album and look how I routed my cooling system in conjunction with the pathfinder mod. Hope it helps.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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I was just thinking, instead of plugging the hole for the crossover and heater pipe like i did on my crossover for the driver side. I would get some 3/16 steel plate and just make a complete blockoff with some rolled rubber fiber gasket material to make your own gasket for it. Where I plumbed in my rear heater on the rear pathfinder pipe. That spot comes already closed, I had drilled and tapped it just to add in the heater.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
I was just thinking, instead of plugging the hole for the crossover and heater pipe like i did on my crossover for the driver side. I would get some 3/16 steel plate and just make a complete blockoff with some rolled rubber fiber gasket material to make your own gasket for it. Where I plumbed in my rear heater on the rear pathfinder pipe. That spot comes already closed, I had drilled and tapped it just to add in the heater.
I'm a bit lost.... isn't that plate with the 2 pipes coming out of it supplying the head with coolant? Are you saying both of those ports are unnecessary? Obviously the pipe on the right is the return from heater core.... can you clarify a bit?
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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The front pipe is the cross over that can be deleted, the rear heads to the heater core with an additional portion that goes to the tb. I deleted my tb lines to cool the intake further. The rear pipe that connects to both heads is what effects the coolant flow from the heads. Most people never noticed much difference with the pathfinder rear pipe, at least so they say. But I dropped nearly 10 degrees after doing the pathfinder mod to the back of the block. The big reason i did the pathfinder was to clean up my cooling system deleting as many possible lines as possible. It is much easier to bleed the air out of the cooling system now.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
The front pipe is the cross over that can be deleted, the rear heads to the heater core with an additional portion that goes to the tb. I deleted my tb lines to cool the intake further. The rear pipe that connects to both heads is what effects the coolant flow from the heads. Most people never noticed much difference with the pathfinder rear pipe, at least so they say. But I dropped nearly 10 degrees after doing the pathfinder mod to the back of the block. The big reason i did the pathfinder was to clean up my cooling system deleting as many possible lines as possible. It is much easier to bleed the air out of the cooling system now.
Interesting... so I can eliminate the entire circuit in picture 1. That helps a bunch! I'm assuming I'll still be ok without the pathfinder mod, but correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 09:50 PM
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It would be much easier to do with the mod but if you get creative using some of my ideas I am very sure it could be done. Full block off plate on the drivers side and deleting the full metal pipe going to 1 silicone hose on the pass side should make it alot easier. You will still need to cap 2 ports on the rear pipe.
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 04:27 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
It would be much easier to do with the mod but if you get creative using some of my ideas I am very sure it could be done. Full block off plate on the drivers side and deleting the full metal pipe going to 1 silicone hose on the pass side should make it alot easier. You will still need to cap 2 ports on the rear pipe.
I haven't disconnected anything from the rear pipe... are those the intake and oil filter lines?
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Had to source an ol' pic from an old thread. There used to be several people that were always messing with their cooling system 5-8 years ago.




This should give you a little more idea of your cooling system.
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 04:27 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
Had to source an ol' pic from an old thread. There used to be several people that were always messing with their cooling system 5-8 years ago.




This should give you a little more idea of your cooling system.
Perfect! Thanks for the diagram, really helps explain what goes where.
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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Np, I am not on here as frequently since i haven't had much of a budget for my build. But I still come on researching alot for my goals. In some ways I try to pioneer my builds differently then everyone else but use proven methods in the process. There is a great amount of resource here!!
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
Np, I am not on here as frequently since i haven't had much of a budget for my build. But I still come on researching alot for my goals. In some ways I try to pioneer my builds differently then everyone else but use proven methods in the process. There is a great amount of resource here!!
Yea for sure, tons of kn oh w how on here's my next project...
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 08:49 AM
  #75  
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contemplating gutting the hood but a little hesitant, dont want to save 8lbs and have a world of problems... id run it with hood pins obviously but is that enough?? Has anyone ran a gutted hook with pins for a substantial amount of time? Worth it?
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dblock55
contemplating gutting the hood but a little hesitant, dont want to save 8lbs and have a world of problems... id run it with hood pins obviously but is that enough?? Has anyone ran a gutted hook with pins for a substantial amount of time? Worth it?
I don't think you can remove 8 pounds from a 19 pound hood and keep it functional
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
I don't think you can remove 8 pounds from a 19 pound hood and keep it functional
Got the 8lb figure from a post I saw, not sure how accurate it is... guess I'll just leave it, don't wsnt to risk smashing windshield.
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 09:30 PM
  #78  
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Good stuff. Id like to drive a gutted Z.
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 04:54 AM
  #79  
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All it takes is a grinding wheel and a few hours
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dblock55
All it takes is a grinding wheel and a few hours
LOL I didn't say I want one. I said id like to drive one haha. I already have a gutted 240sx with a ton of work ahead. When I finish up the cage, you could bring your Z over and we'll get you set up!





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