RobPhoboS

I've run the car on track by disabling the ABS via the fuse but that messes up the front/rear bias and locks the rears easily.
The last couple of times I've been out I use a little module that disables VDC/TC but keeps ABS on (wasn't bad).

However after seeing various threads/vids of people encountering ABS 'ice mode' on track, this is something I don't want to ever experience (especially as my wife joins me on track a fair bit).
I'm currently running with the Rays 18" rear wheels all around (tyres are 245/45/18), I think I've probably got another 4 or so tracks days before changing tyres so the size may change slightly. I spotted a couple of people stating the tyre size had an affect (?)

So I wondered what you guys have done ?
I spotted that Chase Bays make this kit (but I don't think it was rated for track, drifting yes):
https://www.chasebays.com/collection...g35-inbay-oemc

Cheers for any help !

GreyZ

iTrader: (2)

So I probably don't have enough experience here to properly answer your question. But I have done quite a bit of total brake system design for a non abs racecar.

In a car with deleted abs and the OEM master cylinder, The pedal feel and bias has never felt as good as when the bias block and abs unit was there. I have driven cars with the exact kit you listed and it just does not feel as good.

I think there are three options here.

1) Avoid ice mode. It occurs when a wheel instantly locks at a low brake pressure input. This mainly occurs with wheel lift or running pads that are too high CoF on street tires. This is probably the easiest and cheapest option.

2) Swap to a MK60 abs unit. This is probably the best option and can be done at a relatively reasonable price point.

3) Proper delete with some spreadsheets and car data to determine the sizing for a pedal box and dual MCs with a bias bar.

Sundown72

I’ve not heard anything positive about that chase bays kit…

As far as I understand, if you have a VDC car you can fully defeat any interventions while maintaining the ABS and the stock bias. My car is VDC and I’ve wired in a defeat for the VDC and I haven’t had any problems with locking/yaw control on track. I believe for a TCS car the system is harder to defeat because you can’t simply cut power to the yaw rate sensor once the vehicle is on and the CAN bus is initialized (how you defeat the VDC), because there is no yaw sensor for the TCS cars.

All that said, I’m looking at potentially moving to the Compbrake dual master and bias bar setup. Their system uses a bell crank between the brake pedal push rod and the bias bar pivot point to improve the pedal ratio (biggest hurdle with a power assist—>manual brake conversion). Stock is around 4:1 (I have a spare stock pedal around here somewhere…) and for a manual setup you’re better off in the 6-8:1 range, depending on the application, how much pad pressure you need, and how much travel you want in the pedal.

Long story made long: You’re fine with a standard VDC defeat if you have a VDC car. If you fundamentally don’t like ABS/want to safe the weight/have a TCS car…looking at a full delete with a bias bar setup is probably the way to go.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

Why not go for a race oriented ABS system?

Sundown72

The only aftermarket systems I know of are super high-end Bosch systems that are usually integrated with an equally high-end ECU to pick up accelerometer information over CAN from the ECU and to pass wheel speed information back to the ECU (for traction control purposes). Not an invalid approach, but likely way beyond the scope of your street-and-occasional-track-use car.

Personally, I’m looking to delete it because the intervention threshold (at what percentage of locking the abs turns on at) can’t be tuned with the factory system, and I don’t like the feel of assisted brakes on track.

RobPhoboS

Many thanks for your comments, it definitely helps !
My current pad/tyre combo: Hawk DCT 70's (although I'd probably put 60's on the rear or less now), and an older set of AD08R's (before they messed with them). I'm not sure which tyres to go to once these are done (AR1 was a contender).
Option 1 is certainly the easiest !
I didn't realise that was a possibility with the MK60 unit, although I've not read about anyone doing a conversion. I'll have a look around.
And option 3 sounds like I'd need someone who knows what they're doing to help me out.

Yep, I'll leave the CB kit alone I think.
I don't mind ABS as of yet, I'm not pushing the car that much, so I've not found it intrusive/irritating.

Which Compbrake kit were you looking at ? (quite handy for me as they're in the UK)
So I have this module that a UK member created (1 button to turn off TC/VDC keeps ABS):
https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/121590...e-with-memory/


Check out the prices bud !
(I was seeing £10k + for Bosch)

Sundown72

This is the kit I’m looking at. After emailing with them they confirm LHD fitment for us non-UKDM/JDM types.

https://www.compbrake.com/product/ni...inder-std-kit/

That defeat looks very similar to what I did, though I managed it with a relay. Attached is the schematic/guide I put together for a friend with an ‘07 (pins may differ on other years).

Sundown72

1. It maintains the factory ABS and brake bias when active.
2. It allows you to retain the stock VDC functionality (I use the factory VDC off on the street, and the true VDC defeat on the track).
3. It resets to stock/VDC ON every time the car is shut off (good for driving on the street, just means you have to remember to push the button before you head out for your session).

I used a TCS OFF button from a Maxima (I think), and I've wired the illumination of the button to be on when the VDC is on (green circuit on the drawing). I intercepted the factory power to the yaw rate sensor right after the plug coupler to the VDC computer under the dash.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

A cheap solution that's not perfect but works is to just physically remove the abs unit, leave the half that the electrical cable plug into.. Then, plumb two splitters, one to the front lines, the other through a proportioning valve and then to the rears. Been working for me for years. I'm HPDE only track car for hobby/fun.
There is a thread on this forum section with more detail on the how to.

RobPhoboS

So it would be similar to the Chasebays kit but just better selection of parts ?

I think this is the thread you meant ?
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...bs-delete.html

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, that's the thread. Same concept as the Charebays kit, but using all of the existing hard-lines and bending them into position rather than replacing them. All-in I spent maybe $100-$150 tops.

RobPhoboS

I'd don't suppose you'd be able to take some photos and pop them up ?
If I can do something before Spring, I'd be happy but there's soo much stuff to sort out on my car

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

Check this thread over on the370z - http://www.the370z.com/4005882-post18.html

Blurvision

iTrader: (4)

There are a few options. True no abs can be very fast. I have removed my ABS many years ago, you need a race pad up front and real street pad in the back. A large pad stagger is required. I also plumbed in a bias valve to cut even more rear bias. That works somewhat. Pad balance is most important..
I made my own kit as @thekinn talked about. This was before nextrev was around.

https://nextrevmotorsports.com/350Z-...r100-ab001.htm
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...l#post10922480

You can do MK60 ABS upgrade.
https://3dmmotorsport.com/collection...standalone-abs

Chase base...

This would be the best solution. Ma motorsports kit Wait for this to come out soon. I plan to move on to this dual master setup once released.

RobPhoboS

Awesome, thank for you sharing !
The ABS work will have to wait a little until late winter/early Spring (need to sort out ECU/Cage stuff first) but having these options is fantastic