260DET

Assuming similar power to weight ratio and similar braking performance, which is the best or should I ask how far ahead would a 370Z be? And very importantly, why?

I'm a newb here (hi everyone) but have messed around with and raced early Z cars and now want to move on to something more modern with a stiffer chassis and more sophisticated suspension. Depending on responses I'll likely have plenty of follow up questions

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

The 350Z has several factors going for it. First, a slightly longer wheelbase allows it to be more stable in high speed turns and transitions. Second, and perhaps most critically, it's not as finicky electronically as the VQ37VHR, if any number of factors (ECM, ABS, BCM) don't align properly, limp mode is the result. The Z33 is a special car from the standpoint of being sophisticated from an engineering standpoint, but not going as far electronically sensing so many areas. The VHR also needs more cooling.

MicVelo

Not to refute dkmura as he makes very valid, experienced points; but just a few points to consider.

Z34 has the following going for it (assuming like-for-like trim packages; in this case, Touring Package as Z34 is not as "trim happy" as Z33 AND YMMV as these are USDM facts, whereas, Australia may have different set-ups, throwing all of these considerations out the window. Laff...):

- Stronger, stiffer chassis than Z33

- Power advantage (assuming all stock drivetrains) of 45bhp

- Lighter overall weight of some 100lbs less (give/take, and again assuming same trim levels)

- Combining the last two items, better power:weight ratio - Z33: 11.2lbs/hp; Z34: 9.73lbs/hp

- "Possibly" better brakes (if you opt for 370Z with Sport Trim added to Touring package): Akebono 4-pots Front versus standard brakes. (Difference is, of course, less if you run Z33 with Brembo 4-pot Front brakes - found on Track, GT, Nismo but Z33 Touring uses standard brakes)

Going away from the theoretical (but empirical) data above, I have owned both platforms and if I were to do a like-for-like, back-to-back comparison between my 33 and 34 (both Nismo versions), there is NO DOUBT that the Z34N would run away from my Z33N in stock form. Depending on how you're using your car (W2W, TT, AX, HPDE) and the modifications your sanctioning bodies allow, a Z33 can be made competitive with a Z34. But..... same modifications can also totally wake up a 34 as well, so in that sense, it's almost a wash.

Again, just datapoints.

260DET

Thanks for the input fellas, actually I've bought a dedicated track Z33 and was having second thoughts, pic above. It has Haltech engine management so the engine electrics should be OK. I would appreciate advice on what is the most important thing to check/upgrade, considering that it is already a dedicated race car.

coletrickle74

iTrader: (1)

Since someone else has already had the pleasure of beating it up for awhile. I would definitely look over everything to make sure its safe and ready to take some abuse.

- Check/change all fluids
- Check/replace brake rotors and pads
- Check entire suspension and every bushing you can think of for play
- Alignment
- Tire wear
- Inspect safety items

260DET

Other than the usual maintenance checks I'm asking if there is a 'must do' thing specific to the Z33, like, I dunno, something that realigns the front suspension to give better turn in for example Some trick thing that is often ignored or not done. I'm in the process of building a LS3 engined 280ZX/2 so am fairly familiar with the usual stuff.

To change the subject, I was reading somewhere that claimed the longer wheel base of the Z34 is an advantage in long sweeping corners. That may be so although aero comes into play significantly there but a shorter wheel base has advantages too, important when considering our weighty Z's. Thanks for any trick info, hope I can become a contributor here as well as a asker

coletrickle74

iTrader: (1)

We have no idea what's been done to the car already. Doesn't sound like you do either, maybe that would be the best place to start first. Find out what you're dealing with.

Side note, there are no tricks. Drive more to get better and throw money at it to go faster.

MicVelo

True this. ^^^

All we've seen (or heard about) at this point is a gutted Z car with a cage.

Are we talking stock drive train or ***** out stroker and a crash box? Adjustable suspension; and if so, how much room to play with? Class of racing? Stock regulations or Supercars level competition (or somewhere in between?) Aero? Slicks versus street/DOT tires? Need details before anyone can suggest anything.

260DET

Once the other car is off the hoist then the Z33 can go on and be checked and my profile car details filled in,don't want to provide info from the seller until it's checked. One thing that will be looked for is a diff brace, that's the sort of thing which is of most interest now.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

It would help if there were more information on what series this Z was raced in? If it was built to a particular rule book, it might give us some insight into how it was built. Documentation (sanctioning body logbook, maintenance log, etc.) would also be a plus to advise you..

mhoward1

My word of advice is pick your activity/class then pick the car.

If it’s just going to be a HPDE car then pick the one you like driving more.

If its for competition then then buy the one that best fits the class and rules. Too many times people but what they think is the fastest without checking the rules or the competitiveness of the vehicle first.

MicVelo

Sage wisdom, Marty. But OP already owns the car. Z33 of unknown classification/use.

mhoward1

The next person making this decision can use it.

260DET

Good advice of course but if that was applied in Australia then I would not have a Nissan and I would not be here

260DET

Basically the Z33 will be used in time attack type events as is with whatever is required within reason to make it a fast track car that is satisfying to drive. So, say, if it doesn't have a clutch type LSD it will get one but it's not going to get a sequential gearbox. Suspension and aero are my main interests so they will be a priority, light weight panels will be a while as they are not available off the shelf but I can do fibreglass ones myself.

Hope that gives some idea of where this particular Z33 is going, it's obviously not going to be a serious racer but still it has to perform as well as possible within an appropriate budget.

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

If you goal is outright speed out of the box the 370z is the obvious choice.

But for instance in Nasa P/w t tt4 and st4 racing the vq350z can be a formidable competitor to e36s/s2ks/mustangs that are very dominant.

eye-5

A couple of things for tracked Z33s. A proper Diff helps like you mentioned but they do get hot in this chassis. Oil cooler is a good idea for tracked z33s. Upper control arms for camber is good. Lockout kit and camber arms in the back is also good as the stock concentrics are known to move on you. If it's a HR, the stock concentric slave cylinder in the trans likes to crap out under track conditions. It's best to replace it with a conversion kit to an external slave cyliner kit. Zspeed & Z1 Motorsports both make one. Lastly, keep an eye on the FLCA's upper bushing, it can go out under hard track use.

260DET

Thanks eye-5, some useful tips there, stay safe in Chicago. I'm getting quite keen on the Z33 compared with the 34, add lighweight bonnet and hatch with gutted doors using lexan 'glass', prefer the shorter wheelbase too.

For you US 33'rs, your Bodykits is heavily discounting carbon panels, costs too much to ship my way unfortunately.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

All Z33/34s come with aluminum hoods. Going to fiberglass or CF will not make much of a difference. That's not true of the hatch, which should be a priority for dropping weight.

260DET

The weights thread says that the Z33's bonnet weighs 10 pounds so it can stay, an aftermarket front spoiler will be too heavy I'm guessing, it has a splitter on the stock front at present. Past experience shows that gutting a door can save heaps because that includes fixed polycarbonate windows with a small sliding window cut into the driver's window. A bit of work but it's interesting. And the hatch yes, may make one of those in fibreglass with a polycarbonate window.

The hoist should be vacant in a couple of days so we can lift the 33 up to see what it's got underneath. Will take some pics if there are any queries.