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Despite building the car close to race specs I'm not really interested in racing. One thing I've learned watching my friends do it is that it takes too much effort and money to be competitive. I'm happy to go to track events, instruct, drive and just hang out. I've just turned 50 and I have nothing left to prove, I just want to enjoy this as a hobby, not a as a second job.
You just turned 50???? I turn 67 in a couple of days!!!!
And honestly, racing (at least at this level) is no more expensive than DE's, unless of course you instruct.
Despite building the car close to race specs I'm not really interested in racing. One thing I've learned watching my friends do it is that it takes too much effort and money to be competitive. I'm happy to go to track events, instruct, drive and just hang out. I've just turned 50 and I have nothing left to prove, I just want to enjoy this as a hobby, not a as a second job.
There is an SCCA racing school coming up at Summit Point on 4/2 - 4/3. I guarantee that even if you don't want to race, you will learn a ton about driving that you can apply to track days and your instructing. The best part about it is that the fee is $199 for the weekend if you register before 3/28.
Was at Summit last weekend with Audi club, 2 days of pretty much perfect conditions. On the first day I managed 1:28.8 lap time and I felt like the initial turn-in grip was not there. After softening the front sway bar and tweaking the rear coil over settings the car felt a bit better, but I think at this point the tires are just cycled out, the date on them is 2014 and I've been running them for over a year. On second day I only managed to match the 1:28.8 time, although this time with a passenger, so with fresh rubber I can probably do better. Still getting some rubber buildup in a narrow band on the tires but after reducing the camber all around the band has now moved more toward the center of the tire and is significantly smaller so the vibration is less noticeable and the tires don't seem to overheat anymore. I'll probably still take out another half degree all around to at least try to get the buildup centered on the tire so it scrubs off quicker and wears better.
I also ordered SPL front sway bar adjustable end links and solid rear shock mounts, since it's now a true coil-over setup and the rubber bushings have a lot of play in them.
I’m having trouble with my z I barley got it back from the body shop and I don’t know what hose goes to what on the power steering cooler I’m confused right now
Keep it up man. I had the same issue with the caliper adapter bolt on my Akebono's too. I took a grinder out and knocked it down some so it would clear the rotor. I too had to check the torque specs on my caliper's from issues you describe. Fortunately mine were fine, but the SS lines required some creative thinking to route them correctly.
Back after a few months of home renovations, finally pulled the car out of storage and started working on it again. Went to install the SPL adjustable front sway bar links and found a problem. Started out with the car on ramps so the suspension was loaded I realized the Megan Racing sway bar was actually hitting the inside of the passenger wheel well and binding. Ugh... that might explain some of the handling issues I've been experiencing. Upon closer inspection it appears the sway bar has shifted about 1/4" to one side which was enough to hit metal. The megan sway bar has built-in centering rings just like oem but noticeably thinner and there is just enough side-to-side play to become a problem. Ended up having to make a spacer to sit next to the driver's side ring to keep the sway bar properly centered. With this sorted I way able to install the new end links and adjust them for no preload, that required turning the driver's side link out about 5 revolutions (probably 1/3" or so). Considering both sides are sitting at even height, exactly 25" fender to ground, not sure why the difference in end link lengths, maybe the Megan sway bar is also slightly twisted, wouldn't surprise me at this point. I'll be doing the rear strut bushings in the next few days, they are currently cooling in the freezer to make them easier to press in.
Managed to replace the rear strut mount bushings. Had to buy a threaded rod pusher/puller set to get it done without removing the whole thing from the car. Freezing the solid SPL bushings did help and overall it went fairly smoothly.
Managed to replace the rear strut mount bushings. Had to buy a threaded rod pusher/puller set to get it done without removing the whole thing from the car. Freezing the solid SPL bushings did help and overall it went fairly smoothly.
Do you have any more details on brand of this. Looks like something I wish I had many times.
For next event (not sure what and where yet) I'm gonna try to run Michelin Pilot Pro slicks. The old slicks are pretty much cycled out, I'll keep them in the trailer in case I need a spare set. I've been told the Michelins need to be run at much lower pressures, about 26 hot. Anyone has experience running these?
