View Poll Results: What performance level is your 350Z?
mostly stock street car



2
18.18%
heavily upgraded street car



2
18.18%
lightly upgraded track car



1
9.09%
full track build



6
54.55%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll
track build best practices
please share your suggestions on steps or stages of a track build and I will update this top thread with your input. there is a good sticky here but it's more about specific parts. this is a less detailed list of suggestions and advice.
STAGE 1: Still streetable
this is a car that you want to make more competitive but it may still be your daily.
STAGE 2: Getting serious
your car is still street legal but you're ready to make it uncomfortable
STAGE 3: no turning back
when you're no longer concerned about resale value or emissions. trailered but not full competition.
STAGE 4: W2W racecar
STAGE 1: Still streetable
this is a car that you want to make more competitive but it may still be your daily.
- 300 treadwear tires
- street/track brake pads
- camshaft position sensors
- adjustable shocks/lowing springs (do not buy cheap coilovers)
- front hub/ LCA ball joints
- front compression arms (ball joints not serviceable)
- leave the front UCAs alone for now unless the ball joint is leaking
- drain and replace brake fluid with Dot 4.
- drain and replace radiator coolant
- drain and replace rear differential oil
- drain and replace transmission oil
STAGE 2: Getting serious
your car is still street legal but you're ready to make it uncomfortable
- 200 tw tires
- sport brakes with track pads, SS lines, RBF 600/660 fluid
- O2 sensors, possibly MAF sensor
- front LCA spherical bushings (incl shock mount)
- front adjustable UCAs (for camber) with spher. bushings
- front comp arm spher. bushings
- rear adj LCAs with spher. bushings
- rear UCA spher. bushings
- rear hub spher. bushings (traction arm, camber arm, spring bucket/toe arm)
- engine cold air intake
- engine intake manifold spacer
- upgraded larger throttle body
- upgraded exhaust
- oil pan spacer for increased oil capacity
- steering rack bushings
- solid engine mounts
- poly transmission mounts
- solid differential mounts
STAGE 3: no turning back
when you're no longer concerned about resale value or emissions. trailered but not full competition.
- budget for an enclosed trailer (don't bother with an open trailer)
- lightweight racing wheels with 100 tw tires and a second set of backup wheels
- aggressive race brake pads
- adjustable coilovers
- roll bar with harness bar or a full roll cage
- racing seat and 5/6-point harness while retaining factory 3-point belt
- engine oil cooler
- transmission oil cooler
- differential oil cooler
- rear subframe solid bushings
- upgraded clutch
- upgraded rear differential
- gutted interior
- fire system
- upgraded big brakes
- lightweight battery
STAGE 4: W2W racecar
- know the class rules up front
- visit race shops for ideas
- budget for quality safety items, rollbar and seat mount
Last edited by Aeneas137; Jan 26, 2024 at 03:43 PM.
pretty spot on. Id add gutted interior and fire system to stage 3 as well as upgraded bbk system. Also some weight savings stuff like lightweight battery and carbon bits. Aero as well
Last edited by Escobar; Dec 4, 2023 at 01:29 PM.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,621
Likes: 1,392
From: Aurora, Colorado
I'd add a stage IV build to match your poll. These are for full W2W racecar builds that will not be street legal. I'd start with a couple of caveats:
1. Thoroughly read and understand the rule book of whatever class and sanctioning body you want to race in and with.
2. Research and visit and fabrication, machine or race shops you intend to do business with. This is a smart idea even if you intend to do much of the work yourself. You may see some ideas and solutions you want to incorporate into your build, or some things you wish to avoid.
3. Don't scrimp on any of the safety items mandated by the rules. Budget properly for a properly rollcage and a custom seat mount that will properly protect you in the worst accident. If you're using the OEM Z33 chassis, be aware that the monocoque is designed to deform and crush around you to dissipate energy that would otherwise go through your body.
4. This is just the start- there's much more to list....
1. Thoroughly read and understand the rule book of whatever class and sanctioning body you want to race in and with.
2. Research and visit and fabrication, machine or race shops you intend to do business with. This is a smart idea even if you intend to do much of the work yourself. You may see some ideas and solutions you want to incorporate into your build, or some things you wish to avoid.
3. Don't scrimp on any of the safety items mandated by the rules. Budget properly for a properly rollcage and a custom seat mount that will properly protect you in the worst accident. If you're using the OEM Z33 chassis, be aware that the monocoque is designed to deform and crush around you to dissipate energy that would otherwise go through your body.
4. This is just the start- there's much more to list....
You may want to add a subsection to section #2 and #3 identifying a transportation and pit accessories … but like DK said, this list can go on and on … I made a track-day / track weekend check list in my phone and I’ll try to upload it.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,621
Likes: 1,392
From: Aurora, Colorado
I think race transport and pit accessories are such BIG discussion areas, we could have a separate thread on those topics by themselves. My first guideline goes something like this: there's only two type of racers in this world today- those who own enclosed trailers and those who wish they did.
Agree, these list can grow on and on, there is so much that can be added. I feel like the OP lists are starting from a streetcar and slowly converting it to a track car. I'd add that in my case, knowing the car was gonna be a track car from the day I bought it I started from safety equipment first, gutting, cage, seats, harnesses, etc. before doing anything mechanical. It's a lot easier to get these things in place on a blank canvas then trying to add them later on. Also, upgraded radiator and external oil cooler should really already be included in stage 1.
yea good point there, I did the exact opposite and had a road car heavily modified for speed only, then slowly turned it into a track car and did all he safety stuff last once I realized I was never going back to a street car. DK your spot on, I have bought 2 trailers and now wish I had a enclosed trailer. 3rd time is the charm I guess. Eventually Ill snag one. So nice having all the cabinets and tools in there.
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finally got around to adding your suggestions. how the time flies! I came at this from the pov of someone starting off with hpde and evolving into a pre-comp racecar. the later suggestions for 3 & 4 probably apply to someone's 2nd or 3rd car project at which point you learned from the past. that's my pov anyway. I'm building a Z3 track car now and didn't waste any time with BS--just started stripping right away and installed the roll bar first thing. personally, with my 350Z, I didn't want to go that route up front, it just sort of happened. buying another street car helps with the decision. you can get by with one part-time track car but if you catch "the bug" you might as well plan on buying another car. I ended up with several and alternate insurance like I do with batteries now. actually, I only have 1 battery now for both cars. no point keeping 2 of them trickling.
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