DIY - Hood Damper/Hood prop!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
UPDATE: LIFT SUPPORT MODEL # BK.819-5517 60LB.
COST: My local NAPA $21.99 each.
These work beautiful! and yes the 60 lb are not too much.....reason being the have a much slower rate than my original 45lb suspa brands....
honestly.....im thinking of switching to these.
they have a much nicer look and are skinnier/slimmer...These are nice!
ill post more pics soon and installed pics soon!
-j
COST: My local NAPA $21.99 each.
These work beautiful! and yes the 60 lb are not too much.....reason being the have a much slower rate than my original 45lb suspa brands....
honestly.....im thinking of switching to these.
they have a much nicer look and are skinnier/slimmer...These are nice!
ill post more pics soon and installed pics soon!
-j
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Apr 23, 2007 at 05:40 PM.
Originally Posted by imntcrzy
what do you guys think of using old hatch struts? with existing oem hardware
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Napa Gas Props!
UPDATE: LIFT SUPPORT MODEL # BK.819-5517 60LB.
COST: My local NAPA $21.99 each.
SEE ATTACHED PICS:
Okay guys, these are slightly different. For some reason my local NAPA autoparts store ordered the same model number (BK.819-5517) but the heads are round! not OVAL shapped like the ones weve been using so far. Either will work.
At this point it comes down to asthetics.
The NAPA told me there was no way of ordering and distiguishing between head sizes! so if you go in and get some, wait till they come in and check them out before you pay. They dont require payment to get them shipped from the warehouses.
Both Work really good! no clearance issues or anything!
- j
UPDATE: LIFT SUPPORT MODEL # BK.819-5517 60LB.
COST: My local NAPA $21.99 each.
SEE ATTACHED PICS:
Okay guys, these are slightly different. For some reason my local NAPA autoparts store ordered the same model number (BK.819-5517) but the heads are round! not OVAL shapped like the ones weve been using so far. Either will work.
At this point it comes down to asthetics.
The NAPA told me there was no way of ordering and distiguishing between head sizes! so if you go in and get some, wait till they come in and check them out before you pay. They dont require payment to get them shipped from the warehouses.
Both Work really good! no clearance issues or anything!
- j
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
XXXXXX UPDATE: I was able to find the same ball studs at NAPA as well for $4.11 cents for 2!! not $5 bucks each...NAPA part number: 735-1591 = 2 each ball studs 10mm for $4.11
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
well thats up to u.....see my mount location on the cars front quarter panel can be drilled out and then install the ball studs.... or u can weld the ball studs to a M6x1.0 bolt and keep the factory nutplate.....See post #3 and #4!!....
i was simply posting an update on where to buy the ball studs cheaper...
UPDATE:
WELDING - Is no longer needed! SEE UPDATE ON POST 3 AND POST 91.
-J
i was simply posting an update on where to buy the ball studs cheaper...
UPDATE:
WELDING - Is no longer needed! SEE UPDATE ON POST 3 AND POST 91.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 12, 2007 at 05:51 AM.
So, I read through this thread, and thought it sounded pretty easy, inexpensive, and kinda cool! I have access to aluminum and tools to cut it and I love to fabricate. So, I started by calling NAPA. Only 1 NAPA within any reasonable distance had the strut I was looking for...and they only had 1...
. Ok, so I said screw it and went to my local Autozone and started measuring. I found a strut I'm pretty sure will work. It's a little long, but I believe it will fit and will actually make the hood stand all the way up out of the way. (once I am finished and I know it works, I'll post part #.) The good thing about these is that they came with a pair of studs already.
Ok, so next was to install the bottom ball. I decided to drill and tap the hole on the Nissan since I have access to taps but not a welder. I put some blue locktite on the ball threads, and tightened both sides down....seems things are going well.....
Then I begin making brackets. When I started, I used 1" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum L-bracket and cut it 3" long. Let me tell you, 1" isn't really wide enough....and 3" definitely isn't long enough. This was mistake 1. Mistake 2 was where I tried to place the ball stud on the bracket got in the way of putting the nut back on the hood hinge. Mistake 3 was I attempted to change the design. I wanted the strut to go in toward the engine bay instead of straight toward the rear. This showed to be a bad idea as when I shut the hood, the bolt of the hinge broke my strut. This is bracket 1 that failed:

So, I decided I needed to go back to the original design where the ball stud is on the outside and I needed to make my pieces 3 1/2" long and use 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum.
Attempt #2 yielded different but equally failing results. This time, I drilled the holes the correct distance apart from each other, but not the correct distance from the 90degree angle. When I attempted to put the bracket in, the holes were too far left and the bracket hit the outter edge of the hood hinge.....

I think I've got it now and I will be making new brackets asap. If I get it right this time, I will give full measurements so you guys don't look retarded like me.
P.S. This is not bashing the current post either....great write up, I've just not thought it through and screwed it up! Hopefully, when I finish, this will be a full proof DIY
Ok, so next was to install the bottom ball. I decided to drill and tap the hole on the Nissan since I have access to taps but not a welder. I put some blue locktite on the ball threads, and tightened both sides down....seems things are going well.....
Then I begin making brackets. When I started, I used 1" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum L-bracket and cut it 3" long. Let me tell you, 1" isn't really wide enough....and 3" definitely isn't long enough. This was mistake 1. Mistake 2 was where I tried to place the ball stud on the bracket got in the way of putting the nut back on the hood hinge. Mistake 3 was I attempted to change the design. I wanted the strut to go in toward the engine bay instead of straight toward the rear. This showed to be a bad idea as when I shut the hood, the bolt of the hinge broke my strut. This is bracket 1 that failed:

So, I decided I needed to go back to the original design where the ball stud is on the outside and I needed to make my pieces 3 1/2" long and use 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum.
Attempt #2 yielded different but equally failing results. This time, I drilled the holes the correct distance apart from each other, but not the correct distance from the 90degree angle. When I attempted to put the bracket in, the holes were too far left and the bracket hit the outter edge of the hood hinge.....

I think I've got it now and I will be making new brackets asap. If I get it right this time, I will give full measurements so you guys don't look retarded like me.
P.S. This is not bashing the current post either....great write up, I've just not thought it through and screwed it up! Hopefully, when I finish, this will be a full proof DIY
Just in case someone is actually reading this, I will post my current results. Ok, bracket #3 gave better results, but we still aren't there yet. Current bracket was 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/8" 3-1/2" long, which led to the current failure. Instead of 3-1/2" long, 3-1/4 will fit in a little better. 3-1/2" will fit, but the corner hits the edge a little. Also, this bracket should not be 1-1/2" on either side. The side that mounts against the hood can be 1-1/2 but in my opinion looks sloppy that large. The part that ges down toward the engind bay definitely cannot be 1-1/2" as I have found that it hits the plastic. My fix for this has been grinding the aluminum, but I recommend, if you can find a 1-1/2 x 1" or 1-1/4 x 1" L channel. I will take pics when I can.
I'm reading this so please post up some pic's.
Anyone know if this set up will work on the 07, The hood is different but looks similar to the pic's i have seen so far.
Also the L channel your talking about,=Where do i get some, I am moving and will be hacksawing this so i need something almost perfect.
Cheers
Kevin
Anyone know if this set up will work on the 07, The hood is different but looks similar to the pic's i have seen so far.
Also the L channel your talking about,=Where do i get some, I am moving and will be hacksawing this so i need something almost perfect.
Cheers
Kevin
Last edited by 6894kevin; Aug 29, 2007 at 03:49 PM.
Originally Posted by 6894kevin
I'm reading this so please post up some pic's.
Anyone know if this set up will work on the 07, The hood is different but looks similar to the pic's i have seen so far.
Also the L channel your talking about,=Where do i get some, I am moving and will be hacksawing this so i need something almost perfect.
Cheers
Kevin
Anyone know if this set up will work on the 07, The hood is different but looks similar to the pic's i have seen so far.
Also the L channel your talking about,=Where do i get some, I am moving and will be hacksawing this so i need something almost perfect.
Cheers
Kevin

Picture is NOT to scale!
From C to D only needs to 3-1/4"
since most of the stock I have seen comes square (A-D = D-E) From A to D can be 1" because D to E needs to be less than 1-1/4"
As said earlier, the red line (hinge bolt holes) is 2-1/2" from center to center, and 5/8" from the D-C edge. Finally, the last part I've had trouble with is the cyan colored line. This hole is where the ball stud mounts. My current bracket has this at about the 1-1/4" mark and I seem to have a problem with the strut getting in the way.
Since I have not measured this, my current suggestion is to either measure yourself, or make a bracket without the hole, mount it, mark as close as you can get to the hood hinge piece. Then remove and drill. Good luck and when I move the stud location I will provide the newest results.
Also, as to where to get it, your decent sized local hardware store whould have it. Just ask where there metal stock is. Just make sure if you use aluminum it is at least 1/8" think.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
lindelium18,
yes, aluminum needs to be 1/8 thick minimun for sure....
sorry u had problems with dimensions, but mine came close to the plastic but didnt hit! u might wanna try elongating the mount holes a bit on the hood bracket cause i cant imagine it being that far off and hitting plastic.....
however, i would stick with the model number struts/lift supports ive found work, believe me ive tested different lenghts.....longer than what ive posted is bad!
NAPA CAN ORDER WHAT U NEED, especially if they have one in stock...
pm me if anyone has questions.....
also, great pic on post 55!!
-j
yes, aluminum needs to be 1/8 thick minimun for sure....
sorry u had problems with dimensions, but mine came close to the plastic but didnt hit! u might wanna try elongating the mount holes a bit on the hood bracket cause i cant imagine it being that far off and hitting plastic.....
however, i would stick with the model number struts/lift supports ive found work, believe me ive tested different lenghts.....longer than what ive posted is bad!
NAPA CAN ORDER WHAT U NEED, especially if they have one in stock...
pm me if anyone has questions.....
also, great pic on post 55!!
-j
Thanks for the update!
I went by NAPA and they said they would have to order the lifts and a second set of ball studs. They actually had some steel that was "L" and it's 1/8 thick and mesures 1.2 inch on each turn.
So i know i can leave the side that's mounted to the hood bracket at 1.2 inches and it looks sloppy
so what's the proper width to look clean?
Also the lenght going into the bay needs to be 1 inch long, but is that the
max lenght? and where should i drill the hole to mount the support?
(how far from the edge)
And finaly after looking undrer my hood i noticed the place where you guy's had to drill out the whole i have a bolt? I guess it doesn't matter. but it's different for sure. I sure hope this works on an 07
Cheers
Kevin
I went by NAPA and they said they would have to order the lifts and a second set of ball studs. They actually had some steel that was "L" and it's 1/8 thick and mesures 1.2 inch on each turn.
So i know i can leave the side that's mounted to the hood bracket at 1.2 inches and it looks sloppy
Also the lenght going into the bay needs to be 1 inch long, but is that the
max lenght? and where should i drill the hole to mount the support?
(how far from the edge)And finaly after looking undrer my hood i noticed the place where you guy's had to drill out the whole i have a bolt? I guess it doesn't matter. but it's different for sure. I sure hope this works on an 07
Cheers
Kevin
Last edited by 6894kevin; Aug 30, 2007 at 02:28 PM.
OK, I have a finished product with pics but I am on my way out the door. I will attempt to upload tomorrow. Kevin, I'm not sure which lenth you are asking for. Use my drawing above to ask me measurements. A-D can be 1" up to 1-1/2." D-E can be 1" to 1-1/4." Let me know what lenth you need to know...most of it is still in my head!
I ment to ask about the hole. If you mesure from (d to e) to (c to f) how far is the whole mesuring from DE to CF?
Asing about hole to mount the support, i undrstand the whole positions for the hood mount.
Cheers
KEvin
Asing about hole to mount the support, i undrstand the whole positions for the hood mount.
Cheers
KEvin
From DC, it needs to be about 5/8" to 11/16." From DE I don't know an exact measurement, but I put it in between the hinge bolt holes but closer to the hole that is closer to you. Remember that you have to get a socket onto the hinge nuts so don't put the ball stud hole too close to either hinge hole. If you do, you can always loosen the ball before tightening the hinge nuts, but it is a pain in the @$$.







