I don't use thread lock for lug nuts, since I take off my wheels quite often. Plus, I don't see the point of using thread lock for lug nuts anyway.

As for hand tightening the lug nuts (via a ratchet or whatever), I personally don't do this and always use a torque wrench. I'd rather know that all lug nuts are relatively within the same range and be assured that they weren't over/under-torqued.

 

you can get the long wrenches for the caliper bolts. i know some breaker bars won't fit because of the room back there. i got a set of long wrenches, it slips right over the caliper bolts, longer = more leverage, some pb blaster... it comes off.

great write up as i am about to replace my rear studs with the new ones that comes with the 5 mm spacers. hope i will have as much success as your fellas did.

 

sweet !

 

OP did a nice write up, as for the 2 caliper bolts just use a 3/8 breaker bar and for the bottom bolt add a 3 inch extension. As for the rotor removal, make sure the E brake is
NOT engaged and a light tap of a rubber mallet to the surfaced area will free it right up.

 

man, my caliper bolts are soooo tight.its not even funny..do you absolutely hav to take off the caliper

 

Yes, otherwise you cannot access the studs. Use a breaker bar or use your jack (step 6 above) to break it loose.

 

I'm going to be doing this within the next month, so thanks to the OP for the write-up.

Everyone seems to be having trouble removing the caliper bracket bolts. Has anyone broken these bolts in the removal process? I don't want to get stuck with my car parked in the driveway and no rear brakes...

 

If not already mentioned, a non-impact (e.g. ditching the hammer / hammerless) method for removing studs is to use a gear or pully puller.... If you have a air wrench, it'll make quick work of removing studs by pushing them out rather than banging them out.

 

Just wanted to add some other good info:

To note, i have removed and replaced bad studs many times with the hammer method and on the Z would do it as it really doesnt take but a few hits and is not super forceful to say that damage occurs to the wheel bearings after later inspections.


1. PRESS ON NEW STUDS - REQUIRES YOU TO REMOVE THE HUB, REMOVE ORIGINAL STUDS, PRESS ON NEW STUDS. SEE PIC.
HARBOR FREIGHT SHOP PRESS: (ITEM 4711-7VGA - about $80 bucks). They have this on sale many times and any small shop press will do the job on spacers....doesn't take much force to install or remove.


2. WHEEL SPACER INSTALLATION TOOL - Google it. You can drive all over town and try and find one. or you can even use a big enough C-clamp and a socket if you have one big enough.



Where to buy replacement studs:
I found a NAPA and Autozone part number replacement studs that are holding up great so far.

The Z OEM studs are M12X1.25
FRONT OR REAR: M12X1.25x42 (42 mm length) OEM F/R replacement -
NAPA P/N 641-3210 $1.74 each
AUTOZONE - 610-378.1 98353.1 if i remember right, about $1.80 each

also:
Courtesy of HXS:

-J

 

good tip! i should've used this method as opposed to the heavy hammer. hopefully no problems in the future

 

Thread works...


Did a G35 with minimal headache and one sore knuckle!

DIY

 

I ended up having a shop do my rear studs so I never got in there myself, so this may be a dumb question: From the pictures it looks like there is barely enough room behind the hub to get the OEM studs out, and definitely not enough room to get longer studs in. Are the holes large enough in diameter so you can fish the longer studs in from an angle?

 

There is enough room... i had the same thought as you until i popped them out... just rotate the hub flange until you can get the stud you need out towards the rear of the car... used a gear puller and worked them out easily with ratcheting driver (quicker with a air ratchet).

 

OMG Thank you for this write up! DEALER wanted $900 for the parts/labor...Tmr I'm going to replace ALL 20 the studs on my Z..Long story short, DO NOT BUY USED LUG NUTS they will come back to haunt you... ..Will keep you guys posted on how it turns out..=)

 

Bump.

I just updated the 2nd and 3rd post with ARP wheel stud installation.

 

awesome! thanks for the write up, this will come in handy.

 

Nevermind.

 

1st method doesn't have you touch the e-brake. If it's only 40mm, I think you can get by with the 1st method.

 

You are correct. Just pulled a 40mm stud through