Just wanted to say thanks for this post as it helped me tremendously with feeling confident doing my install. I installed 4 new rotors (cross-drilled, slotted & cryogenically treated) and the NISMO pads. I did have some trouble with getting off the rear rotors but once I quit playing around and got serious with the rubber mallet they came off. I recently did a track event (from Z Fest) at Gainesville Raceway and the brakes worked aweZome! I had the 2nd fastest time in the Novice class and my brakes felt great. Also one more note with the NISMO pads I am seeing a lot less brake dust on the outside of the wheels

Z Ya!

 

Cool, glad it helped. The stock pads are the dustiest thing's I've seen. Although the Acura TL I just got for the wife will have it's pads changed out as well. They are shading up the wheels in a single drive to/from work as well. Thinking of going with the Ceramic's from Tirerack as the Hawks I put on the Z are about $90/axle for some reason.

 

I called Hawk to ask about the difference in shims on their HPS pads versus stock. They said not to try and place the stock shims on their pads. They said to install them exactly as they come out of the box.

 

I installed the Hawk HPS pads last Saturday. It was very easy. The only thing to remember the is that the little spring clip on the outside of the caliper inserts into the wear indicator "loop" on the outboard pad, just like on the stock pads. There is only a wear indicator on one of the Hawk pads ( the outside one), unlike the stock pads that have an indicator on both. So far, no noise, and it looks like greatly reduced brake dust.

 

You can do brakes on this car in 45 minutes, very easy! Great write up. Went with the Hawk pads, they fit perfect.

 

I'm preparing to do this myself for the first time. How much and where do you put the high-temp grease? I am installing Performance Friction Carbon Metallics, and they appear to already have a backing plate, do I assume I do need the shims. If I dont use the shims, so I even still need the high-temp grease anywhere?

 

The grease goes on the backing plate where the piston contacts the plate. This is a very light coat only. Also, I put a small amount on the outside pad where it contacts the caliper. Be very careful to keep all grease off the fiction material side of the pad.

After a week of driving on the Hawk HPS pad, they are perfectly quiet and produce almost zero dust. I'm impressed!

 

New to DIY brake maintenance - I noticed when checking out the front brakes that there is worn area into the rotors and I'm preparing to install Hawk HPSs. I've got 30k on the car. Is this a case where I need to have the rotors turned? Is there some threshhold of allowable rotor-indentation-depth?

Additionally, this depth results in a narrow edge coming back out at the outer edge of the rotor. HokieZ, I noticed in your photos that you had a little edge there too but it's difficult to tell exactly how big that is...

 

Would you happen to have the torque range for the caliper bolts? What about the caliper bracket torque values?

Thanks.

 

How many times can you safely change out the pads, without them being turned or replacing the rotors. I'm sure they should be measured and checked as to the specifications, but does anyone have a decent estimate.

It seems like the shops will turn or replace the rotors 90% of the time, although I'm sure that is a profit center.

 

ive never turned or changed my fronts but i probably should, i will next time, 36,000 miles. i have changed my rears but thats because of a failed race pad experiment.

 

Thank you for the great directions.

 

I've got a question. What is the name of this high-temp grease? I used some of that sticky orange substance between the shims for my Accord, but it's not working out too well.

Is it something like this?

 

You can use Permatex brand anti-seize paste. That's my favorite high temperature lubricant for brake pads.

 

Where can you get these? I went to NAPA and didn't see anything like it (only the orange brake quiet thing I already have).

 

It doesn't have to be Permatex brand. Any high-temperature anti-SEIZE paste will do. All auto parts stores have this.

 

Sorry if this has been answered in this thread, but I'm looking to replace my break pads with Hawk HPS. I've changed front breaks in the past without any problems, but have never replaced the rear break pads. My main concern is the emergency break connection. Did anyone recently replaced their rear break pads and can give some feedback?

Thanks.

 

The e-brake in our car is a drum brake inside the rear rotor, and is not affected by changing the pads in the rear caliper. If you want to change the rotor itself, it's a different story; but you shouldn't have any e-brake troubles with just a pad change.

 

Thanks.

So procedure to changing the front and rear break pads should be the same, right?

 

Yes, the procedures are almost identical.