Th3Cleaner

Q:
Is there no need to find the best pad, or just replace with stock application suggested by any comercial autozone etc..?

If there is a better pad, who makes it?


Thank You

bixby

iTrader: (2)

Hawk HPS pads. They are low dust and perform as well or better than OEM. $61.00 pr at www.tirerack.com (non-Brembo).

Th3Cleaner

Thank You.

King Tut

iTrader: (1)

And if you want to make sure they don't squeak, I would recommend purcahasing some anti-brake squeak spray from an auto parts store.

bixby

iTrader: (2)

Agreed! A must.

Th3Cleaner

The front's were completly worn uneven, one side had metal at the bottom of the pad, the other side had metal to metal at the top of the pad, the right front went metal to metal on the inside of rotor and the left was on the out side.

Seems to me that this was alot of what I complained about to Nissan it felt like the car would wobble or fish tail when braking and it felt scary all at the same time. They obiously thought nothing about it when I mentioned it and took the car in to them.

They also called to tell me they want an excellent report card from me this time, and even offered a free oil change if I would give a good report card to the Nissian dealership.

After taking the car in twice for front paint issues, and then getting the car back with paint over spray all over the entire car and now the brakes, I am sure they will get another great report card from me.

bixby

iTrader: (2)

If you're experiencing a vibration or "wobble" when applying brake then your rotors are out of round (every Nissan I've owned has had this problem). Replacing pads will not correct this. The "permanent" cure; The rotors must be turned while on the car. For some reason turning the rotors off the car is only a temporary fix.

Good luck!

Th3Cleaner

no wobble just a click.

Had both front rotors turned at checkers for 9.00/each.

I will take it apart again and see where the click may be.

Q45tech

The problem with truing rotors is they must be indexed to the polished [cleanup] hub to make sure the as installed at temperature rotors meet the < 0.0028" runout tolerance maximum.
Getting them to 0.001" extends the time to warp feel significantly...........or just have the rotors trued with an on the car lathe........this miscuts them true as installed [compensates for hub errors caused by corrosion/rust/bending from wrong torque etc.

Inside of wheels must be clean and true to 0.001" to equlize the lug torque on the rotor hat. Torque wrench all lugs.

Most of these precision things are not done at dealers as they would double-triple the required time.

Common for true rotors to be installed on warped hubs and the rotors are forced to QUICKLY become un true to conform.

Precision perfect brakes require a lot of expensive time to maintain..........usually the #1 cost item but tires are a close second if perfection is your goal..........very few can afford to keep all these things in as brand new spec..............why warranty only offers broad not perfect specs.
A very useful tool:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/STO-3D103.html
on the car lathe discussion
http://www.mile-x.com/Brake%20Lathes/800.htm

I use precision hub shims in 0.001" increments to true my hubs then index, then perfection or at least 0.0015" twice as good as oem spec.
http://www.brakealign.com/pages/products.htm

BA402-03 = 0.003" correction plate
http://www.brakealign.com/pdfs/instructions.pdf

daytona350z

iTrader: (19)

Endless pads....very very nice pads

Th3Cleaner

0.008 warp in the rotor