Machining Rotors with every pad change??
05-27-2008, 04:26 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Motormouth
FWIW, the glazing from not machining my rotors gave them hotspots and made it even worse.
if you are using the same friction material and do not have uneven pad deposits then you should NOT machine your rotors. machining rotors can some times cause more harm than good---stacking of tolerences on maching equipment, etc.
if you are changing friction materials then you should consult the material manufacturer for bedding procedure--most do recommend a fresh or machined disc.
i often replace pads without maching rotors--hell our dealer does not even own a brake lathe.
fwiw rotors very rarely warp, they develop irregular thickness variation.
and I changed the pads with different brands, but I believe the same type (semi metallic).
05-27-2008, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bimmertech
i often replace pads without maching rotors--hell our dealer does not even own a brake lathe.
05-28-2008, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 350 Rookie
who the hell do you work for, GettodealerRus?
i have worked at 1 other bmw dealer--qualtiy imports, and they did not have a lathe either.
i worked at demontrond volvo/vw back in the day and they were latheless as well.
most euro manuf do not recommend machining rotors.
a more appropriate question would have been, "how often do you replace rotors?" in which case i would have replied 92% of the time. the only time i do pad slaps are a warranty squeal issue where the rotors have relatively low miles.
Last edited by bimmertech; 05-28-2008 at 02:15 PM.
07-01-2008, 05:44 PM
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There seems to be some conflicting reports whether to machine the rotors when you get new brake pads. Great, this doesn't seem to help me out at all.
I just got new Hawk ceramic pads. My rotors were down to the minimal wear and could not be resurfaced. I felt a groove on the edge of the rotors. Wasn't planning on getting new rotors so put them back on anyways with the new pads. My question would be: what should I be expecting? Pulsing sensation when I brake? This won't damage any other brake part on the car would it? I'm planning to get new pads & rotors the next time they wear out.
I just got new Hawk ceramic pads. My rotors were down to the minimal wear and could not be resurfaced. I felt a groove on the edge of the rotors. Wasn't planning on getting new rotors so put them back on anyways with the new pads. My question would be: what should I be expecting? Pulsing sensation when I brake? This won't damage any other brake part on the car would it? I'm planning to get new pads & rotors the next time they wear out.
07-01-2008, 06:08 PM
#28
Originally Posted by bimmertech
baron bmw.
i have worked at 1 other bmw dealer--qualtiy imports, and they did not have a lathe either.
i worked at demontrond volvo/vw back in the day and they were latheless as well.
most euro manuf do not recommend machining rotors.
a more appropriate question would have been, "how often do you replace rotors?" in which case i would have replied 92% of the time. the only time i do pad slaps are a warranty squeal issue where the rotors have relatively low miles.
i have worked at 1 other bmw dealer--qualtiy imports, and they did not have a lathe either.
i worked at demontrond volvo/vw back in the day and they were latheless as well.
most euro manuf do not recommend machining rotors.
a more appropriate question would have been, "how often do you replace rotors?" in which case i would have replied 92% of the time. the only time i do pad slaps are a warranty squeal issue where the rotors have relatively low miles.
07-02-2008, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Skrilla
WOW, some of these reponses are just funny, YES always turn/service/machine your rotors. Yes you can get away with it, but there is a tradeoff both ways. Turning the rotors does two things; 1. It beds your new pads in faster without excess heat which helps prevent early glazing of the rotor. Glazing will eventually occur on the rotors but your broken-in pad will be ready to work with it. An already glazed rotor needs more foot time to stop which means heat for longer period of time on unseated pads. You need to create a new mating surface with every pad to get best efficiency(lack of brade fade). This will also decreases the chances you warp your rotor and you can warp the stock rotor without much difficulty with lots of heat from not bedding the new pad. This increases the life of each pad but decreases the life of each rotor (because you are servicing the rotor). However after about 3 turns you should replace the rotor anyway, but you should definitely be able to get 2 turns out of it so long as you replace pad prior to the warning (piece of metal that scuffs the rotor). After servicing the rotors twice you have already gone through 3 sets of pads (stocks pads plus a set for each servicing). At which point you should have money to either upgrade your brakes or are able to afford new OEM rotors. Either way I wouldn't trade off a lack of brake fade for a mere 10 bucks a rotor sevicing
07-02-2008, 05:38 PM
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Alright I worked for 2 dealers, they both had brake lathes. European dealers do not have lathes because the pads chew up the rotors! Therefore they replace pads and rotors. When you do a brake job you machine/turn the rotors when you install new pads. Unless they are out of spec/warped to where they cant be re cut/or your lazy and want to jsut replace pads and rotors. Usually its easier, I dont know people that have a personal lathe so they replace both. THIS IS COMING FROM A NISSAN TECH, TURN OR REPLACE ROTORS EACH TIME YOU PUT ON NEW PADS!
07-02-2008, 07:13 PM
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i just turned my rotors all around with a new pad change. There seem to be debris that gets stuck on the pad that scratches the rotors and it's good to machine them to be perfect. Better safe than sorry. The oem brembo rotors are very friendly to turn.
07-03-2008, 06:25 AM
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How is this for expensive brake maintenance. I talked to the parts mgr. at a dealership who has a GT-R on order. He found out that when you replace the pads on this car you have to replace the rotors also and you can't just do the front or back but all four corners.He is seriously thinking about not taking delivery of his car and letting someone else have it.
07-03-2008, 09:14 AM
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It's more like $5,000.00 for every brake service. And if you track the car like he was planning to do you have to change the transaxle fluid every 1,800miles @ $10.00 a quart.The car has data logging that keeps track of how you drive the car.
09-15-2008, 07:51 PM
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i have just recently been told to replace my rotor as well, however, i checked my service record and I have found out that my first rotor replacement was about 50k km, and the second set was at at 70k, then now i am at 80k, the service guy said i need to replace it again,
I am wondering how often do you guys replace your rotor?
I am also suspecting that they only machined my rotor the second time so now it's too thin that they have to discard it, but they charged me the same price for both times..
I am wondering how often do you guys replace your rotor?
I am also suspecting that they only machined my rotor the second time so now it's too thin that they have to discard it, but they charged me the same price for both times..
09-16-2008, 08:22 AM
#37
There is a lot of hearsay and mis information in this thread.
The primary reason for surfacing or turning rotors if to remove the build up of pad material on the surface of the rotor. This material build up is what causes brakes to shimmy or vibrate most of the time, very rarely does a rotor actually warp, this material will build up unevenly and cause high and low spots in the rotor surface. Certain types of material can also crystalize and form hard spots which lead to more problems.
There are some after market rotors, Baer for example, whose lifetime anti warping warranty are voided if the rotor is turned. Instead of turning they recommend installing a very abrasive metallic pad and using that to remove the built up material.
In the case of the OP here using stock rotors I would recommend machining the rotors, on my personal car I have slapped new pads on without turning the rotors just to stop a squeek but less than 12k miles later I was tearing it all back down again and machining the rotors this time. It's not like it is a costly and extreme ordeal to have them turned, most auto parts stores charge $10-$18 each to turn them.
As mentioned in previous posts if you are changing pad brands or material I would 100% turn the rotors. The mixing of friction materials may cause excessive noise or vibration and that sucks to deal with daily.
Prior to coming to Z1 I ran an auto parts store and speed shop for 3 years and was a counter man there for 8 years prior to that. I've seen all sorts of things come and go with brake pads and rotors including some very horrible OEM designs on rotors that required replacement every time. The one constant in my opinion is that new pads need a new or newly machined rotor face to mate with.
The primary reason for surfacing or turning rotors if to remove the build up of pad material on the surface of the rotor. This material build up is what causes brakes to shimmy or vibrate most of the time, very rarely does a rotor actually warp, this material will build up unevenly and cause high and low spots in the rotor surface. Certain types of material can also crystalize and form hard spots which lead to more problems.
There are some after market rotors, Baer for example, whose lifetime anti warping warranty are voided if the rotor is turned. Instead of turning they recommend installing a very abrasive metallic pad and using that to remove the built up material.
In the case of the OP here using stock rotors I would recommend machining the rotors, on my personal car I have slapped new pads on without turning the rotors just to stop a squeek but less than 12k miles later I was tearing it all back down again and machining the rotors this time. It's not like it is a costly and extreme ordeal to have them turned, most auto parts stores charge $10-$18 each to turn them.
As mentioned in previous posts if you are changing pad brands or material I would 100% turn the rotors. The mixing of friction materials may cause excessive noise or vibration and that sucks to deal with daily.
Prior to coming to Z1 I ran an auto parts store and speed shop for 3 years and was a counter man there for 8 years prior to that. I've seen all sorts of things come and go with brake pads and rotors including some very horrible OEM designs on rotors that required replacement every time. The one constant in my opinion is that new pads need a new or newly machined rotor face to mate with.
09-19-2008, 12:21 PM
#38
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can you please tell me the difference between turning the rotors & machining?
Im @ 42k miles, never tracked my car and the brakes are just fine but I was advised by the dealer to do the whole brake thing. Of course I wouldnt do that but I wanna replace the brake pads and do whatever I can to maximize my brakes.... I take good care of my Z. Thanks!
Im @ 42k miles, never tracked my car and the brakes are just fine but I was advised by the dealer to do the whole brake thing. Of course I wouldnt do that but I wanna replace the brake pads and do whatever I can to maximize my brakes.... I take good care of my Z. Thanks!
09-19-2008, 04:44 PM
#39
Originally Posted by 350zx6r
can you please tell me the difference between turning the rotors & machining?
Im @ 42k miles, never tracked my car and the brakes are just fine but I was advised by the dealer to do the whole brake thing. Of course I wouldnt do that but I wanna replace the brake pads and do whatever I can to maximize my brakes.... I take good care of my Z. Thanks!
Im @ 42k miles, never tracked my car and the brakes are just fine but I was advised by the dealer to do the whole brake thing. Of course I wouldnt do that but I wanna replace the brake pads and do whatever I can to maximize my brakes.... I take good care of my Z. Thanks!
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