sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

I recently bought Stance GR+ coilovers, as well as SPC camber kits and had them installed on my car.

Now my steering is very sluggish. The steering wheel is not as easy to turn as before, and it doesnt turn by itself when the car is turning as much. I have to help it out a lot.

Is this normal from a suspension upgrade? Or would this be caused by something else... I have a feeling something is wrong with my power steering.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

anyone?

El PreZidente

More caster would increase steering effort and make the steering want to center up on its own more.

I don't know the particulars on your parts, but if the upper mount points of the coilovers are adjustable, and the adjustment slides the top towards the firewall, you've increased your caster.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

ok thanks a lot. ill check it out today when i get home.

kacz07

iTrader: (15)

eh, I got my tranny replaced by nissan and it seemed like the power steering went. A hose power steering hose was not attached completely.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^
+1

caster isn't crazily effected with just a coilover install? im lost how it can get harder unless something like KACZ07 happened to your car? maybe during install? i would check the rack, powersteering fluid, and lines, etc...

ive installed coilovers on Z's, slammed, lowered, etc and steering wont be affected, caster wont change radically. Coilovers for the Z are not adjustable with plates on top, thats 240sx stuff...

the Z is an SLA type design and only upper control arms and tie rods are what change specs up front.

ensure you installed everything correctly.. until you find the root cause i would refrain from driving till you know your good......just to be safe...

op? you not on AIM right now?
-J

El PreZidente

Interesting. I've seen on other cars (not 240SX, LOL!) where adjustable upper mounts are used to add caster because it helps low-speed steering, and it does increase steering weight a fair amount.

But I agree based on what you say, if the caster has not changed or is even maxed out using the factory adjustments which won't be "radical" (assuming the Z is caster-adjustable) it should not make much difference in the steering feel, and it's probably an issue with the power steering.

I should probably learn more about the specifics of the Z suspension. But it's good enough stock I haven't really had much interest in changing it, I guess.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

thanks for the suggestions guys.
the problem is, i dont want to take it to the stealership because there is a 110$ diag fee. If they just tell me its because of the suspension, then ill have to pay 110 for nothing. If it turns out to be something about the power steering, it will be under warranty and they wont charge me the diag fee.

i guess im going to have to take it in to get it looked at. Im taking my car to get an alignment today - the alignment is pretty off (maybe thats the cause) . Ill take a look at everything while im there.

julian

ding ding ding

you won't regret it if you take it to a place familiar with race alignments. you just tell them what you use your car for and your preferences. you'll be surprised at the difference a good alignment makes.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

hopefully the problem is in the alignment. if not, they ill have to check everything else out.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

i just got an alignment. its a little better, but still sluggish.

Are these specs good for the alignment, shouldnt the front cambers be closer to 0?

El PreZidente

Your toe was whacked out before, now it looks good.

If this is strictly for a street-driven car, that camber is kind of high, but I would not call it "extreme." For autocross on some nice super-sticky fat tires, it's probably just about perfect, at least, if that's what I was doing with your car, I'd call it a very good starting point.

It's not adjustable stock, so the only way to get less camber is to raise the front. Or, buy more parts.

If you are just cruising the streets and bought coilovers to slam the car, be aware you will wear out the inside of the tires more quickly, and especially with that much camber, if your front toe gets bumped out-of-spec you will chew through front tires pretty quick.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

thanks for the explanation. i do have an SPC camber kit in the front. i dont know why they didnt straighten it out further

WTX350Z

iTrader: (8)

for sanity sake I must say that I'd prolly bring the camber down to -2.0 max in the front

this is just me...you won't ever use the outside of your tires w current camber (on street).

personally I'd bring the toe a little closer to zero as well...

I'd be interested in how everything lines up under your car now that you've slammed it. Contrary to popular belief those silly guys who design car suspensions do know what they are doing...and altering the ride height has effects on everything else.

El PreZidente

Well, it depends on what you are really trying to do with the car. Too much negative camber up front will increase your braking distance in addition to wearing the tires out quick, so running more than you need is not advised.

Since you can, I'd definitely have them drop the camber back in any case but all-out no-compromises track use.

And since you have adjustable camber, I'd have them take out the cross-camber, too. No reason for that, really. If my car was non-adjustable, I'd be OK with that, but if it's adjustable I would have them take it out.

But I don't know what you are doing with the car. Depending on which scenario fits what you want, for "just cruising" I'd go with -1.0, for "no-compromises track use" you're probably good to go or at a good starting point, and for a compromise street/track setup I'd have them drop it back to -1.5, maybe -2.0 maximum.

sbZenth

iTrader: (23)

thanks for the info. its for street use so i will ask them to go with a -1.0
And yeah ill get the cross camber taken out as well.