Rear toe keeps going out of alignment
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Rear toe keeps going out of alignment
Hey guys, I have had a 2003 and now have a 2005 350z, stock suspention right now accept for hotckiss sways and gf210s springs. On both cars ever since I installed the tanabe gf210s if I hit any pothole, even a small when it always messes the rear toe up and I have to get the car realigned. Before the springs it was fine its only after lowering the cars. And the tanabee gf210 are softer in the rear then the 417lbs 2005 rear springs, so my question is why does this happen? does anyone else have this problem?
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looks like you have the spc camber kit according to your sig, thats the problem right there. i have the same kit.
the problem is that the toe bolt they provide with the 10.9 stamped on it isn't really a 10.9 grade bolt. on my 3rd realignment within one week (at speedware, they build real race cars, so they know what they're doing), the toe bolt snapped as the tech was removing it. the reason it kept slipping is cause the bolt kept stretching.
the fix was getting a real 10.9 grade bolt, speedware milled the shape to match the spc toe bolt and put that in. the tech also sanded the washer on the toe bolt and the mating surface on the subframe with a low grit sand paper to provide a bit more friction. haven't had a problem since, its been about 3 or 4 months.
the problem is that the toe bolt they provide with the 10.9 stamped on it isn't really a 10.9 grade bolt. on my 3rd realignment within one week (at speedware, they build real race cars, so they know what they're doing), the toe bolt snapped as the tech was removing it. the reason it kept slipping is cause the bolt kept stretching.
the fix was getting a real 10.9 grade bolt, speedware milled the shape to match the spc toe bolt and put that in. the tech also sanded the washer on the toe bolt and the mating surface on the subframe with a low grit sand paper to provide a bit more friction. haven't had a problem since, its been about 3 or 4 months.
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actually my signature is wrong, that was my last z's sig. sorry better change it. I am using the stock toe bolts. all the suspension is stock other then the springs and sways. could it be the springs being to soft? or just being lowered?
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looks like you have the spc camber kit according to your sig, thats the problem right there. i have the same kit.
the problem is that the toe bolt they provide with the 10.9 stamped on it isn't really a 10.9 grade bolt. on my 3rd realignment within one week (at speedware, they build real race cars, so they know what they're doing), the toe bolt snapped as the tech was removing it. the reason it kept slipping is cause the bolt kept stretching.
the fix was getting a real 10.9 grade bolt, speedware milled the shape to match the spc toe bolt and put that in. the tech also sanded the washer on the toe bolt and the mating surface on the subframe with a low grit sand paper to provide a bit more friction. haven't had a problem since, its been about 3 or 4 months.
the problem is that the toe bolt they provide with the 10.9 stamped on it isn't really a 10.9 grade bolt. on my 3rd realignment within one week (at speedware, they build real race cars, so they know what they're doing), the toe bolt snapped as the tech was removing it. the reason it kept slipping is cause the bolt kept stretching.
the fix was getting a real 10.9 grade bolt, speedware milled the shape to match the spc toe bolt and put that in. the tech also sanded the washer on the toe bolt and the mating surface on the subframe with a low grit sand paper to provide a bit more friction. haven't had a problem since, its been about 3 or 4 months.
I track my car often and found the bolts to slip/stretch after events....I knew this by making a mark across the washer and the AL subframe and after the event the marks were not lined up anymore....
So i made lockout washers and then i use adjustable arms - the arms have jam nuts so that solved that.
here is the only pic i have of some Lockoutwashers i made, the bolts i used were 10.9 for sure, pictured is the nut side though:
https://my350z.com/forum/7940030-post10452.html
yeah dude, to begin with, i have worked with people that have the GF210's...in general you need to get a rear alignment kit.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 01-07-2010 at 12:52 PM.
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Those definitely good improvements.....I opted to eliminate the crappy toe bolt altogether...see the bolt looses bearing area because the way the bolt is milled.......
I track my car often and found the bolts to slip/stretch after events....I knew this by making a mark across the washer and the AL subframe and after the event the marks were not lined up anymore....
So i made lockout washers and then i use adjustable arms - the arms have jam nuts so that solved that.
here is the only pic i have of some Lockoutwashers i made, the bolts i used were 10.9 for sure, pictured is the nut side though:
https://my350z.com/forum/7940030-post10452.html
yeah dude, to begin with, i have worked with people that have the GF210's...in general you need to get a rear alignment kit.
-J
I track my car often and found the bolts to slip/stretch after events....I knew this by making a mark across the washer and the AL subframe and after the event the marks were not lined up anymore....
So i made lockout washers and then i use adjustable arms - the arms have jam nuts so that solved that.
here is the only pic i have of some Lockoutwashers i made, the bolts i used were 10.9 for sure, pictured is the nut side though:
https://my350z.com/forum/7940030-post10452.html
yeah dude, to begin with, i have worked with people that have the GF210's...in general you need to get a rear alignment kit.
-J
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I thought about doing that but you can only do that on the camber arm, and thats not the one getting knocked lose. It the toe ajustment on the spring bucket that goes lose. so what do I do for that?
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-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 01-08-2010 at 08:29 AM.
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Nah man, it has nothing at all to do with your actual suspension components. And besides, a coilover kit is *basically* just spring and strut sets that were packaged by the manufacturer to work well together. If you lower the car a lot by any means you'll need correction kits, whether it be toe or camber or both.
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Dave, yes, if your asking me in regards to having lock out washers at each location, yes you would need coilovers as a lock out washer at the toe location and replacement of the spring bucket means you need to be running a true coilover in the rear..
-J
-J
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