Hi,

This is now about the 3rd or 4th time I have run into this issue installing suspension components on peoples 350z's.

What happens is that the oem shocks have shorter stud bolts on the top of the strut/shock assembly than most after market units.

When oem shocks are used the bolts are short and when they protrude up to the shock tower they clear the oem strut bar.

The oem strut bar is covering up one NUT on the suspension so you have to remove the oem strut bar in order to have clear access to the 3 suspension strut bolts for removal.

Going back to install the oem strut bar is when you run into problems.

******** This is for those not running plenum spacers ************
1. As obviously you would have those aluminum spacers under the strut bar.
2. You could use large washers as well too.......up to you

Also, of course, if you have a different strut bar, you may not have this issue.

I thought i would bring it to light for those that run into this!

-J

 

Notice how the top of suspension has 3 bolts!





This is oem set up:

I know its a bad pic, but notice how the oem stud bolt is shorter.

-J

 

Okay here is the trapped nut that is under the oem strut bar.

see how long these coilover studs are!!?!?

ALSO,
side note, if your using impacts or air wrenches with extensions, i recommend doing this rear most bolt with a swivel or wobble extension so that you dont risk nicking or damaging the AC lines.


-J

 

Okay, so yes, you can go out and get washers - fender washers or cut washers.

Or you can get spacers or buy a plenum spacer and the spacers they come with will eliminate this issue.

BUT, I have done this a few times.

The oem strut bar is left and right hand threaded at the adjustment barrel on the passenger side.

remove the strut bar and remove the ends if you wish. I vised them down and get drill happy with step drill bits!






Harbor Freight Item #91616
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91616

-J

 

I filed the burrs down and then shoot it with some etching primer and some black paint.

Reinstall and your done.

Check clearance on that coil over "longer" bolt and you should be good.

Installed..........close but no contact...





DONE!

 

Awesome J - This will DEFINITELY come in handy for when I do installs. Thanks for the heads up!

quick question though - if it were me (depending on the length that needs to be cut) how come you didnt just chop the top of the problem stud?

 

I see you're using that pittsburgh socket wrench from harbor freight that spins when you twist the handle........ i have the same one :P love it.

 

I tend to avoid cutting bolts.......dealing with threads can be a pain, and if you screw one up, then you would have to press it out and source another to press into your new coilovers

-J

 

yeah i love that thing!

"The Rotator"....... lol



-J

 

Drilling a hole it is! ya I wouldnt want to have to hassle with all that mess if something were to happen.

Great info

 

wait so when installing any coilovers im going to have this problem?

 

Yes with stock oem strut bar " IF "

1. your coilover studs are longer than the oem ones.
2. you have no plenum spacer with those aluminum spacers raising the oem strut bar.
3. Your not wanting to put washers under the strut bar.

I have seen it on a few different coilover models now...
-j

 

thanks for the info. i thought coilovers should be a straight forward installation. i didnt know there will be problem like this. thanks for the info. you are great

 

Or you could replace the one long stud on the upper mount with one of the correct length.

 

sure, but Source an M8x1.25 bolt with a knurl end like that pressed into the aluminum top plates of coil overs and let me know where you find it...

could be pressed on with a vise im sure as they are not big bolts versus an actual press...

but my method was a 5min fix...

-J

 

Its called a self-clinching stud.

http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_products/pdf/fhdata.pdf

Although McMaster doesn't list them in metric in the catalog you can call and order them through their sales department. Here's the catalog page for the SAE studs:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#self-clinching-studs/=8jpe6u

 

nice.....great find...

I wouldn't want to press off the stud from my aluminum coilover top plate, just to press on a shorter one all while waiting to install them....ensure the knurl section is gonna bite into the coilover top plate, etc...

.....ya waiting etc i just opted to drill for clearance..like mentioned, i have seen this on many peoples cars.
-J

 

if i were to get an aftermarket strut bar, would that also have a problem clearing the possible longer bolt? im not sure if other strut bars like Cusco or GT spec or even tanabe have designs that are different than the oem deisng that would allow the clearance of the bolt.

 

Hey guys, do you know what the nut fits the standard front OEM self clinching stud ?
(the 3 x 12mm nuts)