You need to read this thread.

 

^ As he said, you need to read this thread. If you're just slamming your car though, I will help you and tell you the ones you want to look at are either Stance coilovers, or D2 coilovers. Also, your coilovers aren't responsible for your camber. That would be up to your camber arms and your toe arms (do it right, get battle versions or SPL). They have way more toe correction than the standard toe bolts.

 

So basically if I put coilovers on my car and slam it with no other mods, I'm going to mess up my car?

 

Slamming your car is just stoopid - slamming your car " is " messing up your car..

but to answer your question directly: Yes

 

never did understand why someone would drop a sports car sooo low that it is no longer functional

 

That's why it's my car. You have your car, I have mine. I'm not making my car to please you. But thanks anyways.

 

just telling you my opinion

 

guys my 08 base HR front shocks are out, everywhere i go they keep telling me these shocks are specially made and cost half a fortune, I called Z1 and they say NO that the replacements for the oem shocks are all the same from 03 til 08. Im not changing the stock suspencion setup yet so" If i order the shocks for any of the earliers years of the Z as long as its Base it would fit my 08? any recommendations? I greatly appreciate the help

 

same shock will work for all, and I believe Tokico Blue was updated to the later model damper rates for your springs.

 

My car is still functional. Still drive it like I stole it. Drove it at ZDayZ and had no issues either.

 

I drive my mom's minivan like I stole it every time with no issues either. I can probably drive it at zdayz too on real roads and everything....so what are u proving by your statement exactly?

 

My Z is stock suspension and my Z shop said I need several things replaced since I have oversized NISMO wheels and there is definite camber/toe issues. The Z shop said I need:
OEM Front Lower Control Arms (2)
OEM Front Compression Rods (Arms, 2)
SPL Front Adjustable Upper Links (Arms, 2)
SPL Rear Eccentric Lockout Toe Bolt Kit
SPL Rear Adjustable Camber Arms (2)
Right now I don't have true coilovers but will get some after this project/norm maint. So my question is from the looks of it I can go ahead and get the SPL compression rod bushings to replace the stock ones now so it'll be cheaper on labor, but from the other parts on this list what other solid bushings do you recommend? I think if I read it right there are a total of three, another SPL and a whiteline?

 

Street car only, daily driver, weekend play toy, roadcourse , autocross. Give me a little more info and I will set you down a much better path. Probably cheaper too.

 

DD, spirited driving, autoX and once a year track event.

 

Best thread on here...I have read through the thread and only found a brief posting from you Jason about converting the BC rear coilovers to eliminate the spring bucket. I would love to get the SPL lock out bolts and use a jam nut setup to adjust the toe. Where can I find more info on this?

 

Would you recommend lockout bolts on the rear adjustable camber
arm inner mounting point? Wouldn't it be the same concept of
having the tow lock out with an adjustable lower control arm? Drop is only like 2" so the adjustable arms should have it covered.

And would like to hear your thoughts about using a digital level to dial in camber (and toe) while in the home garage? I used this method recently for the front Kinetix camber. Measure the car raised and then lowered on the ground. Boarderline time consuming but I think it works when getting the same camber on each side.

I love this thread because it right up my alley. My favorite part of our cars is the suspension and I have to rely on some mechanic to align my car- I'd prefer to do it on my own.

I think the biggest problem with using a digital level would be adjusting the thrust angle or steer ahead between front and rear. What are you thoughts?

 

This seems to be as good a place as any to ask...how the heck do you remove the rear upper control arm bushings? They are too short to get on my 12ton press and they have a lip which prevents a standard bushing removal tool/c-clamp setup to work...


Pic is generic (sorry), but the thick portion on the bottom of each mounting point is part of the metal sleeve/race of the bushing.

 

I used a metal chisel to pull back the lip just enough to get a saw behind it. Once the lip is off you can press out.

 

If I remember right I used a long drift on a press. Basically one came out easy, then ran the drift thru the others hole and pressed it out.

 

Ditched the SPC front and rear camber arms on my car because of the bushings they use..Just installed Kinetix rear camber arms (lubed the red bushings very well, just like I did with the fronts). I noticed even after tightening the chassis bolt very tight there is play between the bushing ans arm. Once I connect the other end of the arm to the wheel hub they is no play. Is this normal and ok to use? There was a little play in the SPC arms- that's why I replaced them. Anyone know what I'm talking about? BTW using SPL lock out bolts with the rear camber ams