the red one looks perfect!

i dont know if i can go tooo low because of the front 19x9 +10 offset...?

what do you think? i ordered the wheels yesterday...but im so scared that the front rubs

what do you think?

are there other coilovers where i can slam my car more than with bc-racing?
if im right the minimum and maximum lowersize for bc is from +20mm to -80mm is that right? (+20mm= +0.8" to -80mm= -3")

 

What coilovers are the bang for the buck? one that can be used for
DD yet can improve the handling on the car...?


toHn

 

I moved this post, as this thread :here: is a pic request/info only thread - I don't want to clutter that thread with post.

Well, there are many budget coilovers in the 700-1200 dollar range.

pretty much all of them will improve the handling of the car over stock suspension for sure, its just more so up to you on what you want and want to spend..........some of the lower end units are not that great in valving and so research is key prior to purchasing......

If i had to choose, i would be more so a fan of D2's or Stance (true coilover setup) when it comes to the lower end costing units.

-J

 

I never thought that I would buy a coilover before but I've been driving on these tanabe nf210 for about 2 years now and I think its time to retire them. I wanna be able to drive the car as confortable as one can. I also have the rear camber "kit" / arms. I see a great deal on a BC RACING BR coilover how good are they or should I say how comfortable? And theres TRUE and "UNTRUE" coilovers. So many options that I have no idea. I am willing to spend 1k to 1.2k.
Any help is very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

a good search/some reading would of given you this answer. Bc has both true and oem style coilover and Stance,which i also recommend, has both oem and true coilover. Just look up what model you want and make your choice from there.

 

Stance LX

/thread

 

i noticed that stance lx is no longer available... at least on their website... stance gr+ maybe?

 

I would recommend the stance or the BC for sure.......either build quality appears to be great and the dampening controls are sensitive enough at full soft to more than likely fit your needs...........differences between the two will be hard to tell apart for your wants..

-J

 

thx jason... A+

 

I was wondering will I have to dremel the rear to install the spl lockout kit correctly, like you have to do to install the spc toe kit. Is there any toe kit that doesn't involve cutting or dremaling. I'd really like to stay away from cutting anything.

 

No. I didnt. I put them on with my camber arms...simple swap

 

QUESTIONS:
1. WHERE ARE YOU WANTING TO INSTALL THEM?? CAMBER ARM LOCATION OR TOE LOCATION.

Camber adjustment location:
2. Do you have adjustable camber arm?

Toe adjustment location:
3. Do you have adjustable toe arms? OR SPL pro midlink to adjust toe?


Please review post #20 as you "must have adjustable arms" in order to use lock out washers.

But to answer your initial question - NO cutting is needed when using lock out washers!

-J

 

I have tokico Dspec shocks and eibach sportlines. I will be using a spc or ichiba rear camber arm. Will I probably need toe bolts to get into spec is there a toe kit around that would prevent me from dremeling or cutting anything. Also the toe bolts would be at there original location.

 

Okay, so you have a spring in the spring bucket which means:

1. you must use spc's toe bolts and you must dremel the slot.

OR

2. you must purchase the SPL pro midlink and then you can use lock out washers or the OEM toe bolt - this will call for NO dremeling.

however, you must contact SPL and see if your eibach sportlines will "Fit/work" with the spl pro midlink....you may need to purchase their springs.........to fit in the midlink.

GET IT??

Shown here:


you really need to print this thread out, and physically look under your car as you read it....

-J

 

So the cusco trailing arm will adjust the toe right? I'm running on the HKS Hipermax III and the SPC rear toe bolt, but the bolt is maxed out and it barely comes into spec, and i'm planning on lowering the rear another 5-10mm. I have no intention of getting the SPL midlink as i think it's quite expensive to then find out that your spring doesn't fit!
I understand that they MUST be adjusted the same, but that's what i'll do. I'll shorten them both a bit from the stock length to bring the thrust angle forwards a touch and then adjust the toe from there. Does that sound right? Any thoughts?
Is there any advantage to having a shorter trailing arm? Like better traction off the line due to the rod pushing down at a steeper angle and helping control wheel hop?

 

Okay the cusco trailing arm will adjust toe and some camber at the same time...its orientation and mount point on the rear spindle yields changes in both............this is not the correct way to adjust toe....doing so changes the way the suspension works and sure STATICALLY the car will get the toe you want on the alignment rack BUT, the curves and bumpsteer will be affected and how the camber progresses...

about the only thing changing this arm is good for is bumpsteer - so for u it would be good as i see in your signature you seem to hit road courses.........doing so i can imagine you coming off the corner curbs and causing bumpster with the oem rubber arms......this arm will let u dial that in.

yes they will help with take offs as the car wont see rubber oem bushing flex there......as the cuscos are solid right?? no rubber??? I cant tell, so im asking??

we are talking about A:

 

Yep, were talking about A. I'm not sure either if they use solid bushings. My guess would be they use upgraded rubber or polyurethane busshings, but i'm not sure.
I would only need to dial in a small amount of toe, as the toe bolts bring me in to spec now, but they will not when i lower the rear a little bit more as they are just maxed out now.

 

Please help and educate me if my alignment is within spec:
I have 19" wheels but they calibrated to 18 oem wheel size, is it ok?
Also the tires were deflated at the time of alignment this is 26 psi, not 35 psi. Should I get it re-aligned ? Thank you for your time and help.
-Ralph





JASON, please HELP MAN!!!

 

lol....

Sorry, havent noticed the bump in thread......

as for tire pressure - well the alignment tech is supposed to check that prior to even beginning an alignment.........do i think it will make a huge difference? i dunno......but kinda bums that the car wasn't at the correct air pressure in all tires.....up to you to decide really.......no way for me to determine squat on one tire to determine degrees of toe/camber, etc......

as for your alignment sheet, it looks fine......

the only one that raises concern is the caster difference left to right.....
LH is 8.0 where RH is 8.5.....I wouldnt be happy with a .5 difference in caster, but the manual says .75 is acceptable

Thats what can lead to a pull........so watch that...odds are its bushing wear versus anything else...the main culprit for this is the compression arm bushing...re-read through the thread and you will see what im referring too...

but in general your good....
-J

 

^^^ Thank you sir! My suspension has been making this clicking noise when accelarating or stopping so it may be the sign of bushing wear.
Once again big THANKS!
-Ralph CT