robmarley

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, I apologize if this has been addressed, but recently I installed the spc rear camber arms and after getting an alignment I noticed that my car seems to be sitting slightly higher and the gap between the tire and fender has grown. Is this normal? or will it eventually just settle back down?

Thanks

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

see, i thought that, but why would it need to get sway bar input??

interesting..
-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

what else was installed? springs?? you sure they are sitting in the spring bucket correctly???

abo

iTrader: (5)

Thank for input. I've been working on my suspension for the past two weeks. The wear isn't to bad yet. I've been getting alignment every saturday since then trying to get into spec again. I was wondering if you could answer a few questions for me.

1. I'm hearing a clunk in the front on large bumps or dips. I hear that this is cause by the upper ball joint hitting. At what height can I prevent something like this.

2. How low can I go fender to ground in the rear to get my Toe into spec using the SPC rear toe bolt. I think I went too low.

3. I've heard it wasn't nessecary to for the best brand on the market with the front camber unless it was SPL because you could adjust caster. I'm not trying to mess with caster in the front yet. So is there any disadvantages or concerns with going with say a megan or godspeed front camber kit?

Thank you again for all your help and input. I appreciate it.

-Abo

robmarley

iTrader: (6)

woops, sorry for not including that, but I have the eibach prokit installed with stock shocks (for now). I did the install myself, and I do believe the springs are sitting correctly in the bucket. Also, I gave the springs approx one month to settle before installing the spc camber arms and they haven't been touched.

Thanks again.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

every saturday?? ya, thats not really required man......a good shop should get it right once the height, etc is all spec'd out right..

no real way of telling a given height, as you could always adjust coilovers to stiffer to keep it from happening at any given height too?? see what im saying so there is no exact "inch" measurement that does or does not do it...

-Ensure that your car is set at the correct RATIO height (.967, etc) front to back height ratio as mentioned here: do post 3 and 8:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...rs-vs-spl.html

back when i had those shitty bolts 1.4 or so was about the max with my set up of wheels and camber......so depending on yours i would say no more than that....

only way to get more toe out of the rear if your on OEM styled coilovers, springs, is to get rear "adjustable" radius rod arms #23

Dont bother with those crappy arms........get the Version 2 stainless steel kinetics arms i mention on post#7:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html
link of vendor is on that post as well that sells them for only $239...thats cheap for upper control arms! and adjustment is easy....about .3 degrees per 360 degree turn.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

hummm?? something isnt right?? the car shouldnt go up after installing "lowering" springs...

Check the spring mount rubber and spring sitting correctly in the spring bucket...look really good at the springs, as one end of the springs should be flat(top mounted side), and the other end is not flat and should fit in this groove/perch:


-J

abo

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Jason, I'm running the true coilover setup. I guess i'll have to put in an order for the front camber kit and the rear toe arms. I know you sell the two way adjustable toe arms. But I'm going to have to do a little saving before I put an order in. Gotta pay to play I guess? lol

I went in twice for an alignment because the first time I didn't install the SPC toe bolt. But it didn't help too much anyways.

Hmm the stiffness it turned up to 14/15 in the front at the moment. I was trying to prevent clunks like that. I guess i'm going to have to get under the car this weekend and see whats going on under there.

I did read your post on ride height ratio. Good information. I actually spent all of friday night getting it dialed in.

robmarley

iTrader: (6)

Thanks again J. I'm going to jack it up and check that asap.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Abo, On the rear that's a lot of toe, double check they put the Toe bolt in the right link. Its common to see them attach it to the camber position. Some shops get confused when they see the camber and toe move so aggressively when adjusted by the camber rod. Some shops think this is the only adjustment for both camber and toe. You may be able to see the the bolt still has it "painted" position intact after two alignments, which is no good.

Have you had a chance to drive in rain yet? That's where you will notice the toe the most.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

your talking about the **** on the coilovers, thats for the shocks, you could also adjust the pre-load on the springs a bit tighter and keep from hitting the ball joint.

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I agree, ensure they did that correct...

-J

abo

iTrader: (5)

I installed the toe bolts myself. I took it get aligned so that they could it in spec for me. I installed it where the spring bucket meets the subframe. I hope thats right lol.

I live in socal so it dosn't rain often. But after the first alignment and before I installed the SPC toe bolts I was at 2.25 total toe. My tires were squealing over anything painted and and every turn. I ran into some wet water and the rear was all over the place. Which is why I installed the toe bolt that same day. (i hate dremeling anything)

I'm trying to spread out the Z being a money pit, so I'm placing one order this friday for one of the two parts. I'm still trying to debate which to get first. Toe arm, or front camber kit. But I want to get the suspension situated before I move on to rims or something else of the sort.

I'll check under the car this weekend. To see what going on. The car is driving fine. But I feel like there isn't enough grip in the rear. And that its loosing traction far too early. I think it has a lot to do with the toe.

So frustrating. Its been like the 4th time in two weeks I've been messing around with it =*(

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

ABO,

how low are you???

-J

abo

iTrader: (5)

lol... i can fit my chucks(converse) under the front mud guard...

oh man pray for me. i hope i can get out of the parking lot at work. they put a speed bump right at the exit. WHO DOES THAT?!

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

no wonder man........thats why you cant get back to toe spec......since you have true coilovers, your best option is to get toe arms and trash the spring bucket and those spc toe bolts..

done, problem solved.......

for now though, honestly, i would raise the car as driving like that isnt safe at all...
-J

abo

iTrader: (5)

Yea, I think your right. I should definitely raise the car up. Lost a lot of function for the form. I just became really addicted with going lower. But SoCal street arn't always too friendly.

Buster-here

Solved by you guys in 2008

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ias-valve.html
it is a rotory angle sensor for the head lights so when you go over speed bumps it adjusts the head light angle so you do not blind any on coming traffic.

I searched the part number and it directed me back to my350z.com

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

I'm with Jason on the ride height, get it back to within an inch or so of stock, but the low rear traction has a lot to do with the toe setting. Currently your are rought 4 times the suggested total toe. I was at .50 and my car did the same things over paint and in wet patches... totally un-drivable. The guys that did my alignment took 4 tries and still didn't get it perfect, but it was drivable and grippy yet still a touch too aggressive in camber. They kept using the camber rod to adjust both, toe and camber (idots), but I got annoyed with going back and just accepted the aggro-camber setting.

vlado_t

Jason...

what camber/toe settings do you recommend (front and rear) for maximum tire life?