I'm in the process of researching rear clunk noise. I know it's been discussed a lot.

My issue:
- low speed uneven grown = clunking / rattle (happens 80% of the time)
- low speed cracks/dips/bumps = loud pop /slap (happens 50% of the time)
- 40mph + typical road noise minor clunks here and there (never bothered me before)

My setup:
- unrevised Stance Gr+ (i beleived there was a top hat revision)
- SPC rear camebr arms
- Megan Toe arms.
- 18x10 +22 rear

Ever since I put the Stance Gr+ i've always hear a little bit of clunking that never bothered me. But now the clunking and slap/pop/thud noise is disturbingly loud. I'm planning to change the diff fluid this saturday so I'm going to be checking around if anything is loose.

I was just wondering if you guys had any suggestions to help me cut back on guessing and checking. It sounds like something is loose and needs to be tighten down. Or maybe and endlink broke. Any suggestion would be helpful.

In the meanwhile I will be searching around the forums for any similiar problems and issues. I'll update this for future reference for someone that might run into the same problem.

Thanks in advance,
Patrick

Hopefully nothing to complicated or serious. *crosses fingers*

 

tighten your coilover sleeve cups. My Stance's did the same thing.

 

mine is doin same, let us kno what u find out

 

ok heres an update. last week i had a tire blow out. and had to use the stock jack to get the car up. when i put it back in its place i opened it up a bit to make sure it was stable back there. today i read that area with jack could be loose. all i did was un-expanded the jack. the louder of the clunk seems to have gone away. which was the scariest of the clunks. so i'm going to have to double check to make sure that area is properly secure and hopefuly give me the peace of mind that nothing is wrong. i'll still be doing my inspection on saturday.

Research: (the list of fixes i've seen so far)
- the gasket between the shock and the body of the car might need to be replaced (Part# SPO 55338-AL500)
- the ball join on the hatch might need to be covered and tightened down.
- endlink on the sway bars need to be tighteded or replaced (common issue with aftermarket sways)
- losse bolts holding either the exhaust or any of the covering under the car
- loose e-brake lines or whatever holds the e-brake lines in place (i doubt this is my issue)

Deduction:
- if it happens during cold weather... problem something to do with the hatch shocks and ball joints.
- if it happens all the time could be loose parts in the trunk, endlinks, loose bolts.
- i don't see how replacing the gasket on shock would fix a clunk if it was properly tightened down the first time.

i'll update again on saturday if i find anything new. or if i find out the over tightened stock jack wasn't my problem.

 

i replaced my end links today and the clunk/pop is gone. check your rear shock mounts also.

 

yo abo, i always had a feeling it had to do with either the cold or the jack/tools in the trunk...... in for the next update

do u have stock sways?

 

yup stock sways

 

Update:

I went under the car last night to see if any bolts or paneling was loose. Everything seemed tight and in place.

I found this thread earlier this week and thought it was the most logical fix I've found so far: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...e-for-4-a.html

I went to home deopt and got my supplies only to find out that I bought the wrong size PVC pipe.

Since I already had the bolt out, I wrapped it with some plumbers tape (the area where the PVC was supposed to go). I think the noise has gone down a notch. So I'm going to try the PVC method with the rubber gasket up top this weekend. I'm just glad to know nothing was loose when I did my inspection. I kept thinking my shock was cave in.

 

nice find bro, ima do this soon!

 

I had something similar and it turned out to be the wheel bearing/ hub assembly. When I lifted the tire off the ground I could shake the tire.

 

I had the same problem before. I spoke with the guys at stance, and they said to take an impact wrench to the nut on the top of the shock to tighten them down. That fixed my problem, and I also have the GR+

You can use a torque wrench to torque the nut down to spec, but the nut will keep spinning, so they suggested a quick blast with a impact wrench.