Spring rate on aggressive set up
Spring rate on aggressive set up
I was wondering what you guys are running as far as spring rate on a aggressive true coilover set up. I'm getting ready to put my new set up on stance gr plus, I have a g on 20s and I ride pretty low. When I ordered them I upgraded the springs 2 spring rates. Instead of the swift spring I just had them put there upgraded springs on. I know it's gonna be a harder ride, but I don't drive the car everyday. I'm still looking for the performance end of it also. Let me know what you guys are running that are aggressive. Thanks!!
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It's show and HP. I know I'm kinda walking the fine line to begin with. I don't track the car just street driving. I was running the stance LX. I'm now going for the more aggressive ride and I'm like I said going to be going little lower then I am now and I ride pretty low to begin with and I'm on 20s. Like I said I'm going to be running the stance gr plus and when I was ordering them the guy from stance wanted me to go up 1 spring rate from the spring rate they come with. When I explained I was on 20s and the height I was planning to ride he then said to go up 2 rates although it will be a harder ride I should be ok. I'm just now thinking it may be a little to much. Also with the hp I'm at 600+rwhp I'm just not sure. I'm trying to eliminate rubbing and bottoming out.
It's show and HP. I know I'm kinda walking the fine line to begin with. I don't track the car just street driving. I was running the stance LX. I'm now going for the more aggressive ride and I'm like I said going to be going little lower then I am now and I ride pretty low to begin with and I'm on 20s. Like I said I'm going to be running the stance gr plus and when I was ordering them the guy from stance wanted me to go up 1 spring rate from the spring rate they come with. When I explained I was on 20s and the height I was planning to ride he then said to go up 2 rates although it will be a harder ride I should be ok. I'm just now thinking it may be a little to much. Also with the hp I'm at 600+rwhp I'm just not sure. I'm trying to eliminate rubbing and bottoming out.
if you just wanna slam your car, stick with the stance, if you want to have good coilovers read my previous state..koni, moton, ohlins.
an upgrade is only an upgrade if the change makes a positive difference. A change for the sake of change is not automatically an upgrade, and often ends up as a downgrade
you're going to be on your own here in terms of trying out and settling on a combination that suits whatever your intended uses are
you're going to be on your own here in terms of trying out and settling on a combination that suits whatever your intended uses are
sorry, I dont really understand, you want a stiff ride..why? just to have a stiff ride or what? and with 600WHP+ on 20s youll be spinning ALLLLLL day, so why not get some 18s or something and put good tires on it?
if you just wanna slam your car, stick with the stance, if you want to have good coilovers read my previous state..koni, moton, ohlins.
if you just wanna slam your car, stick with the stance, if you want to have good coilovers read my previous state..koni, moton, ohlins.
an upgrade is only an upgrade if the change makes a positive difference. A change for the sake of change is not automatically an upgrade, and often ends up as a downgrade
you're going to be on your own here in terms of trying out and settling on a combination that suits whatever your intended uses are
you're going to be on your own here in terms of trying out and settling on a combination that suits whatever your intended uses are
the horsepower thing has nothing really to do with the equation, unless you're drag racing. If you are, you already know that ultra low profile tires and 20 inch wheels are less than ideal anyway
as far as stiffer rates, again, it's all a balancing act. If you're seeking to limit suspension travel via ultra stiff springs, you can accomplish that, but at the expense of everything else - bushing life that's even further compromised beyond it's current state (due to your ultra low stance), increased liklihood of tire bubbling/wheel bending, potentially increased rattles/squeaks from inside the cabin, and of course, a less comfortable ride. It really comes down to your own choices, and finding the part of the balancing act that accomplishes whatever your goals are.
Rubbing is going to be a function of proper quarter/fender clearance, and alignment specs, moreso than spring rates (unless you're talking about taking a giant step up in rate to the point where you have nearly no movement at all - think pogostick vs 2x4
You can't limit bottoming out, and have a car handle well and have an ultra low stance - these 3 things just don't peacefully coexist. Where you make the compromise is really something you'll just have to play with
as far as stiffer rates, again, it's all a balancing act. If you're seeking to limit suspension travel via ultra stiff springs, you can accomplish that, but at the expense of everything else - bushing life that's even further compromised beyond it's current state (due to your ultra low stance), increased liklihood of tire bubbling/wheel bending, potentially increased rattles/squeaks from inside the cabin, and of course, a less comfortable ride. It really comes down to your own choices, and finding the part of the balancing act that accomplishes whatever your goals are.
Rubbing is going to be a function of proper quarter/fender clearance, and alignment specs, moreso than spring rates (unless you're talking about taking a giant step up in rate to the point where you have nearly no movement at all - think pogostick vs 2x4
You can't limit bottoming out, and have a car handle well and have an ultra low stance - these 3 things just don't peacefully coexist. Where you make the compromise is really something you'll just have to play with
OP, you might want to ask your question in this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...s-welcome.html
A lot of people in that thread run slammed setups and live in cities with messed up roads. I'm sure at least one of them has an FI setup that can point you in the right direction.
My two cents: if you're going for performance AND slamming your car...it's very hard to accomplish without modifying the suspension geometry itself, more than just changing the arms and springs.
+1 to what Adam @ Z1 said. If you want performance, you'll have to sacrifice being slammed because you'll need that suspension travel. It is key to balancing out everything.
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...s-welcome.html
A lot of people in that thread run slammed setups and live in cities with messed up roads. I'm sure at least one of them has an FI setup that can point you in the right direction.
My two cents: if you're going for performance AND slamming your car...it's very hard to accomplish without modifying the suspension geometry itself, more than just changing the arms and springs.
+1 to what Adam @ Z1 said. If you want performance, you'll have to sacrifice being slammed because you'll need that suspension travel. It is key to balancing out everything.
the horsepower thing has nothing really to do with the equation, unless you're drag racing. If you are, you already know that ultra low profile tires and 20 inch wheels are less than ideal anyway
as far as stiffer rates, again, it's all a balancing act. If you're seeking to limit suspension travel via ultra stiff springs, you can accomplish that, but at the expense of everything else - bushing life that's even further compromised beyond it's current state (due to your ultra low stance), increased liklihood of tire bubbling/wheel bending, potentially increased rattles/squeaks from inside the cabin, and of course, a less comfortable ride. It really comes down to your own choices, and finding the part of the balancing act that accomplishes whatever your goals are.
Rubbing is going to be a function of proper quarter/fender clearance, and alignment specs, moreso than spring rates (unless you're talking about taking a giant step up in rate to the point where you have nearly no movement at all - think pogostick vs 2x4
You can't limit bottoming out, and have a car handle well and have an ultra low stance - these 3 things just don't peacefully coexist. Where you make the compromise is really something you'll just have to play with
as far as stiffer rates, again, it's all a balancing act. If you're seeking to limit suspension travel via ultra stiff springs, you can accomplish that, but at the expense of everything else - bushing life that's even further compromised beyond it's current state (due to your ultra low stance), increased liklihood of tire bubbling/wheel bending, potentially increased rattles/squeaks from inside the cabin, and of course, a less comfortable ride. It really comes down to your own choices, and finding the part of the balancing act that accomplishes whatever your goals are.
Rubbing is going to be a function of proper quarter/fender clearance, and alignment specs, moreso than spring rates (unless you're talking about taking a giant step up in rate to the point where you have nearly no movement at all - think pogostick vs 2x4
You can't limit bottoming out, and have a car handle well and have an ultra low stance - these 3 things just don't peacefully coexist. Where you make the compromise is really something you'll just have to play with
The more I see you post the more I Like you, You always have some good advice and useful information. Plus being a vendor with some actual knowledge on car dynamics gives you alot of merit in the community, Thanks for being a car guy and not a salesmen.
the horsepower thing has nothing really to do with the equation, unless you're drag racing. If you are, you already know that ultra low profile tires and 20 inch wheels are less than ideal anyway
as far as stiffer rates, again, it's all a balancing act. If you're seeking to limit suspension travel via ultra stiff springs, you can accomplish that, but at the expense of everything else - bushing life that's even further compromised beyond it's current state (due to your ultra low stance), increased liklihood of tire bubbling/wheel bending, potentially increased rattles/squeaks from inside the cabin, and of course, a less comfortable ride. It really comes down to your own choices, and finding the part of the balancing act that accomplishes whatever your goals are.
Rubbing is going to be a function of proper quarter/fender clearance, and alignment specs, moreso than spring rates (unless you're talking about taking a giant step up in rate to the point where you have nearly no movement at all - think pogostick vs 2x4
You can't limit bottoming out, and have a car handle well and have an ultra low stance - these 3 things just don't peacefully coexist. Where you make the compromise is really something you'll just have to play with
as far as stiffer rates, again, it's all a balancing act. If you're seeking to limit suspension travel via ultra stiff springs, you can accomplish that, but at the expense of everything else - bushing life that's even further compromised beyond it's current state (due to your ultra low stance), increased liklihood of tire bubbling/wheel bending, potentially increased rattles/squeaks from inside the cabin, and of course, a less comfortable ride. It really comes down to your own choices, and finding the part of the balancing act that accomplishes whatever your goals are.
Rubbing is going to be a function of proper quarter/fender clearance, and alignment specs, moreso than spring rates (unless you're talking about taking a giant step up in rate to the point where you have nearly no movement at all - think pogostick vs 2x4
You can't limit bottoming out, and have a car handle well and have an ultra low stance - these 3 things just don't peacefully coexist. Where you make the compromise is really something you'll just have to play with
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