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Accumulative Aftermarket Front Suspension Bushing Data

Old 06-18-2012, 04:50 AM
  #41  
JasonZ-YA
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^ hey no problem....

im gonna add those two post above to my suspension 101 thread too.....

ive been meaning to update it, but just havent had time lately..

-J
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:39 PM
  #42  
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Jason - For those of us limited to non-metal bushings for SCCA classing, do you think the Energy compression rod bushing is worse than stock?
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:55 AM
  #43  
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if your lowered, its better than stock, as its stronger and doesnt resist tearing....

if your at stock height, oem is fine if its new, problem is that they don't sell just the oem bushing (that im aware of, its complete arm with bushing) SO, ESuspension or whiteline is your only option. I would go whiteline.

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-19-2012 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:04 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
if your lowered, its better than stock, as its stronger and doesnt resist tearing....

if your at stock height, oem is fine if its new, problem is that they don't sell just the oem bushing (that im aware of, its complete arm with bushing) SO, ESuspension or whiteline is your only option. I would go whiteline.
-J
If I remember from photos of the energy suspension compression bushing, it has a large thick flange that would bind up the arm if it tried to move past parallel with the k member. Some on really need to make an angled elastomer bushing.

I was actually thinking a bushing with a thin, very stiff urethane core layer, then softer urethane on the outer surface would resist tearing really well. This would also have bonded in metal sleeve like oem, except at an angle to compensate for the lowered suspension.

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-19-2012 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:07 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ian99rt View Post
If I remember from photos of the energy suspension compression bushing, it has a large thick flange that would bind up the arm if it tried to move past parallel with the k member. Some on really need to make an angled elastomer bushing.
Yup! exactly, but then an angled bushing would just be for lowered cars, and to what degree of angle for what amount of lowering?? its all relative...

in the end its give or take, u have to pick a bushing that works for you, ie, it be scca rules, cost, etc....

Originally Posted by ian99rt View Post
I was actually thinking a bushing with a thin, very stiff urethane core layer, then softer urethane on the outer surface would resist tearing really well. This would also have bonded in metal sleeve like oem, except at an angle to compensate for the lowered suspension.
would be better to just have an oem RUBBER bushing that was angled......the oem bushing will last a long time IF And only IF the Z stays at stock height.....

once you lower the car, the amount of pull, angle is constantly tearing the oem bushing...hell the car just parked is tearing the oem bushing...

the oem bushing design is great - AGAIN "at stock height" , ie, parallel...

in the end, everyone out there replacing bushings just needs to choose the best option for them...

I run the SPL compression bushing....I have WANTED to purchase another one to machine the cone like L-fab did, or have new steel stepped tapered cones made.....WHY, just cause, do i need it?? NO.....my cars a pure track car and a little knock or noise is the least of my worries..


-J
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:54 AM
  #46  
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Thanks for all the good info Jason! and just fyi SPL let us know they're willing to sell us just the cone spacers for $55 plus shipping that way we can machine them for customers. PM me if you need a price out the door on those
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:04 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ian99rt View Post
No complaints from me, got about 5k miles on them.

Recently drove a coworker's bone stock 06 Z. Major difference in the driving experience than my car, his car felt very loose and unresponsive.
So I just got my energy suspension bushings installed, I bought their whole front end kit in the black color which includes bushings for the compression rod, translink, and upper A-arm. I also had the guy move my sway bar settings from middle to stiffest in the front (I was at the middle hole on front and back for my sways)

All I can say is WOW. What a difference. Where my car used to bounce a little, it's now firm. Turn in is much better (might be the sway) the ride is better, steering feel is better. I know I was going from torn bushings to energy's but WOW! I'm officially a fan. My Z feels better than it did new now and I couldn't be happier.

This thread was very helpful for me to determine what I wanted for the purposes and money. Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:05 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by L-Fab View Post
Thanks for all the good info Jason! and just fyi SPL let us know they're willing to sell us just the cone spacers for $55 plus shipping that way we can machine them for customers. PM me if you need a price out the door on those
That sounds good....have you had any car on this modified bushing set yet?

My concern from a stress concentration stand point is the machined STEP with out any radius in it. like i mentioned in post 39, i would monitor the modified cones for cracks. especially at that point.

STEP shown here:


I wouldn't put it to using any software or load calculating analysis as the time invested would be moot on such a small market item......I would just lean toward monitor and inspection...like you said, having an original set that came with the original purchased spl set can easily be put back on if later wear and tear shows cracks or anything coming from the modified ones.

my raising this question isn't to say this will definitely happen, but from a engineering/manufacturing stand point (I have years of experience in this) that stepped edge is a red flag enough for me to say "hey guys just inspect this area just in case"

AND if a track 350z that see daily driving and road racing for a year develops a minor crack, pff at that point, for the price, just replace the part.... thing is the people that want to daily drive and no noise will want the "install it and forget it mentality"....

machining a radius at that step will help...

not sure if SPL has any calculations to help or guide u on this, maybe hes already evaluated it and is why hes cool with getting you spares to begin with??

-J
Attached Thumbnails Accumulative Aftermarket Front Suspension Bushing Data-20120214_123239.jpg  

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-21-2012 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:52 AM
  #49  
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Subscribed. Coming from Subaru forums and, recently, Mazda boards, Nissan community is by far the most helpful and resourceful
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:32 AM
  #50  
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Sub'd as I'm thinking of going with L-Fab's route but need more info if these have held up with the new machined cone in lowered cars. I will be contacting you L-Fab. Need pricing and such. Thx
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:14 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
if your lowered, its better than stock, as its stronger and doesnt resist tearing....

if your at stock height, oem is fine if its new, problem is that they don't sell just the oem bushing (that im aware of, its complete arm with bushing) SO, ESuspension or whiteline is your only option. I would go whiteline.

-J
You can get just the bushing under a TSB for a G sedan. I don't have the exact TSB number at hand but I just ordered some bushings last friday after confirming the same dimensions. List price is $49 ea but you can get them cheaper (let's say I paid about half).
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:51 AM
  #52  
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^ interesting...keep us informed..

-J
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:46 PM
  #53  
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what is the part number for the oem hard rubber washers?
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:08 PM
  #54  
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This thread is awesome. LFab and Jason, you guys rock.

I'm placing an order for my front front suspension bushings soon (Spl + Whiteline setup). Steering response on my Z has become pretty loose.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:28 AM
  #55  
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I don't understand why some folks are only going for the front sets if only purchasing Energy-Suspension. Should really go for the entire ES Front/Rear/Diff/& Steering Bushings Kits in one shot since its such a good offer in price compared to Whiteline...
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:27 AM
  #56  
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That's the only reason I'd choose ES over Whiteline. From all the research I've done it appears that Whiteline did way more R&D.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:48 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ALO8 View Post
what is the part number for the oem hard rubber washers?
If you are referring to the washer under the modified SPL bushing, its the same nissan washer from the differential.... But unfortunately i forgot the part number
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:10 AM
  #58  
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Does anyone know the Whiteline part #'s for the front upper lower control arms or is there a whiteline front kit for both sides?
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:28 AM
  #59  
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Been reading through these suspension bushing threads, and am curious what experiences you guys have had after picking your bushings. Iím sure a lot of us would like to here a longer term review of these options.

-did the SPL compression bearing hold up on the street and did it cause a noticeable increase in NVH?

- did the Whitelines break in to become looser than expected? If so, did this break in land on a better than new OEM firmness

- any opinions on Nismo bushings
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:08 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by doyle4281 View Post
Been reading through these suspension bushing threads, and am curious what experiences you guys have had after picking your bushings. Iím sure a lot of us would like to here a longer term review of these options.

-did the SPL compression bearing hold up on the street and did it cause a noticeable increase in NVH?

- did the Whitelines break in to become looser than expected? If so, did this break in land on a better than new OEM firmness

- any opinions on Nismo bushings
I have the complete Whiteline bushing set (front, rear, subframe, and diff). In lower temps they do make some noise but they are quiet most of the time. Its definitely more responsive than OEM. If your car lives on street tires you should be fine, however if you plan on using r-comps or cup tires just save the time & effort and go SPL.
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