I have searched far and wide for as many threads relating to this issue as I possibly find. I have found lots of informative information throughout many threads, but not enough about people actually making adjustments/modifications to the wheel well area for clearance.

So far the two main fixes for this seem to be to either raise the car or cut the area where the a-arm is hitting. I don't plan on raising my car so I plan on doing some cutting to make my a-arms work. I am currently running the SPL v3 front a-arms. Many other popular arms I am seeing are the Cusco, SPC, and KSport.

Here are some photos (taken from another member here) of where the arm first makes contact.





I was planning on doing some cutting in that area, but before I start hacking away I was wondering if anyone has done anything cleaner?

Here is a photo of someone who simply cut out that whole area.. which looks like it works fine but I am worried about the structural integrity of the frame after removing that piece of metal.



And here is another cool idea I want to try that came from an r32... but I don't have access to any type of machine tool or welded so this can be costly. Also on the r32 that area is flat which makes it easy to modify.




Does anyone have any other ideas or pictures of what they have done to give the front a arm some additional clearance they would like to share? I am hoping this thread will shed more light on this issue.

 

Not a chance in hell I'd hack up my car like that.

 

Totally understandable. Sometimes you take extreme measures to get the results you are looking for... And sometimes there are 'smart' ways to do dumb things...

I know alot of VIP platforms hack away at these upper wells to achieve the low ride height as well.

Here is another photo of an even messier hack job.

 

I never understood any of this. I bought my car to drive. To each his own, though.

 

Slammed cars can still be very drivable. (with lots of work to correct suspension geometry...) To some people (such as myself) want a nice balance of form and function.

I created this thread to gather some ideas for people who want to go low yet still have enough suspension travel/clearance. I appreciate your input.

 

Just thought that I would share that I went full retard.







End product was worth it. Got some more clearance under load.

 

Full retard is correct but alas it is your car and as long as you like it that's all that matters.

 

You cut your car up for that minimal amount if contact?

 

That is prety geto but I like it

 

I would look into drilling holes around the cutout and fabricating some type of reinforcement plate with spacers to allow the travel, much like the R32 pictures showed but without actually welding anything.

Even then, that portion of the car is likely not bearing load or flexing but still, just to cover it up. Unless you never drive in the dirt or rain.

 

wow, just wow........

 

lol

 

Looks gOOd man. You will be a drift king in no time!

 

rimmed up

 

Nice. I have SPLs and PBMs on my car as well and was wondering what overall size wheel and tire you are running up front. Mine is likely smaller at a 235/40/18 on 10.5 -22 but I'm at about your ride height. I only slam arms when I hit dips in the highway but I intend to drift at this height so some cuts may be required. Also, ever re-box the openings or create some type of cover from the elements?

 

Not to mention how easy it is to adjust the camber now. You don't even need to remove the wheel, just adjust it like you have a camber plate on the upper strut mount. Miss that on my Maxima

 

Your car looks fantastic. :drool

Edit: are the faces on your LXZ's polished?

 

i just seen the photos. lololol i can't believe you actually did it.

 

thanks homie! the LXZ's are FULL polish so yes the faces are polished

 

This pinch weld is very dangerous and hopefully you cut or beat it to one side...

With a fat tire setup it cut my tires

If anything you could of cut on side then reweld it to sit a tad higer