Sup all


I did an 07 brake conversion with Stop Tech SS lines on my 03 Touring. I did the fronts, bled the brakes and everythng was great. A few weeks later I did the rears and after purging the system 4 times (manual; 2 man job) I cant get a firm pedal.

There is no leaks, I triple checked. Ive been researching online and there isnt much besides take it to the dealer. My guess is there is air in the master cylinder and/or the ABS unit. Can either of those be bled while on the car? I took a quick look at the MC and I dont see a bleeder screw but I could be wrong. Do I buy another bottle and keep bleeding?Ive been doing it passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front; maybe that could be it.




Thanks all.

 

I have an 03 G35 with Brembos and I have the same issue. After removing the caliper for some rapair on a corroded fitting during my SS line install, I let too much fluid drain out and I think I got air in the ABS module. I bought a Motive power bleeder and bled the whole system several times with no luck (yes I bled both sides of the calipers, and yes I tapped on them with a mallet as some have suggested). I have heard that the only way to really fix it is to cycle the ABS module as you bleed - which the dealer can do with CONSULT-II. I was hoping I could do it with Cipher but for some reason it wouldn't talk to the ABS computer on my G.

 

For what it's worth (maybe not much).....I've had luck activating the abs between bleeds, got a good hard pedal out of a few cars doing this after MC replacements:

1) bleed brakes
2) find dirt road, slam on brakes several times to activate abs
3) bleed brakes
4) go back to dirt road, rinse, repeat

May or may not help. A bit of a redneck way to burp the abs unit.....BTW, I use one of those bleeding vacuum setups from Harbor Freight, works like a champ. Good luck.

 

Not sure if you need a dirt road, but driving the car and getting the brakes up to temp seems to help with bleeding them. Take it right back to your garage, get it up on jackstands and concentrate on bleeding the rears. Remember there's a lot of hard line between the master and the rear brakes, so bleed the hell out of 'em.

 

II kept driving the car and the brakes got a lot better. They still feel as if they have a little air in there, but definitely much better. Ill bleed them again soon and try to squeeze out whatevers left.

 

The only good and safe way to bleed the brakes on your 350Z is to use a Motive positive pressure brake bleeder. I recommend you buy the bleeder directly from the manufacturer. The 0117 black label Ford / Import power bleeder is the one you want.

I tried bleeding my brakes for HOURS before I gave up and bought one of these. The first time I bled the brakes with the Motive, they were perfectly tight. Other bonus is that your brakes are properly bled in a few minutes and you can (conceivably) do it with one person. Do NOT use a Mightyvac vacuum bleeder that sucks the fluid from the bleeder screw. It will not work.

I recommend you use Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid (this stuff is magic on your clutch as well). The $75 you spend on the Motiv will pay back in spades after you start using it. The Nissan techs at our local stealership use this tool, so I figured it was worth a try. I've been very happy with it ever since. I also bought the 1810 Single Power Bleeder Catch Bottle and the 1109 Black Label European Adapter

 

^ hands down i agree:

yes, get the metal 3 tab he links - they should send u the metal one only, the plastic they first sold i got and it cracked and they got me a metal one for free. motive is a great company.

also see my DIY on power bleeding the clutch here:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ghlight=Motive

-J

 

One month later UPDATE:

I kept driving the car and my brakes are now very tight and everything works flawless. I can even tell the difference with the SS brake lines when they bite hard in the beginning.

As far as actual brakign performance it seems to be the same from the 03+ brakes. But they look 100x better.

 

I've just ordered a similar product over here in the UK (Sealey VS820 with universal adaptor + a spare MS cap to modify if it doesn't hold pressure).
Last week I bled the brakes with a friend the old way, this certainly helped out a bit but I think there is still more air in there.

I've checked a few threads and videos on the procedure, all seems straight forward (with some good tips, ie the 1 or 2 pedal pump before opening the valves, and the one above about braking hard to activate the ABS) but I wanted to check if I still have to disconnect the negative battery terminal for this ?

Thanks guys !

 

I never disconnected my cable.


What I did was just drive the car lol. After some miles the brakes were great.

 

Cheers.
Lastly just to get clarification, some people have advised pumping the brake pedal once or twice - is that before opening the bleed valves or after you've opened it ?