Okay so after hitting a curb fairly kinda hard I started having a weird hub bearing noise veering left at higher speeds, I changed my hub bearing and wheel assembly and the noise went away. I used Moog instead of OEM, and I am starting to think that may have been a mistake.

I've tried two different MOOG bearings, but with both I have had professional shops say that I have play in the hub and it needs to be replaced...AGAIN.

On top of this, my car is pretty shaky at speeds of 60+ mph, and the wheels were balanced just the other day and the tires/damaged wheel have all been replaced. Do need struts in the back however

So my question is:: when I put the hub bearing on, are those 4 bolts in the back supposed to be equally tightened to a certain torque spec?? Or is it one of those tight is tight ordeals.. I was thinking this could cause the play and the shaking at high speeds, but I was also considering biting the bullet and buying the Nissan bearing for over $200 more.

This all happened after hitting a stupid curb and its been pissing me off so much. Any help would be appreciated, hoping it's not a bent axle or something that would be a huge pita to change.

Edit: I have since put coilovers on so it's not the struts, and have checked the torque on the hub bearing bolts but they seemed fine at 65 ft lbs. Tires were balanced by Firestone but I am considering asking them to do it again if they'll do it free. Was also aligned today but still does it, printout below.
Thanks

 

All the bolts on the car have a torque spec and you can find the factory service manual online. Could it cause a problem not following it maybe?

Some other people on this forum have had good luck with TIMKIN bearings.

Did you hit the rear or the front? Also did you check for any other damage, bent control arms? Have you had an alignment?

 

This is in the front. No noticeable damage on anything and it's been looked at by Nissan and Firestone.

Not thinking its a alignment issue since that wouldn't cause that kind of shaking and it doesn't pull to the side.

Idk a lot of the shaking is noticeable in like the shift **** and the sun visors so it's shaking the whole car not just the steering wheel...

Could it really be as simple as getting equal torque on each of the four bolts in the hub? They were all pretty damn tight but not equally torqued

 

Correctly torquing the hub assembly and making sure it was installed correctly would be a good place to start, and you should do it before spending any more on parts.

I would mostly trust Nissan diagnosis but I wouldn't put any weight on Firestone. Do you have any private mechanics you could take it to to get a second opinion?

It does seem odd that two hub assemblies would go bad so quickly. What did your alignment print out say?

 

Maybe the problem is in the tires. Were they road force balanced with a Hunter system?

 

the toe and camber are off OEM spec because I just put coilovers on and haven't put any adjustable toe bolts on yet.

So it's not the struts, not the alignment, and probably not the tire balance. I'm probably gonna test out different tires soon, but what else could it be?? I don't understand why changing a hub bearing would make my car shake at high speeds it sketchy!

 

If the hub is slightly off or the bearing has play it could be causing the vibration.

Have you checked the torque on the bolts like I said you should? Did you make sure the mating surfaces between the hub and knuckle where clean and free of rust/oxidation? Is the brake disk mating surface clean on both the hub and wheel sides? Why not start with these free/inexpensive things assuming you have the tools before spending more on changing tires.

Have you also personally checked for bearing or ball joint play?

It looks like your alignment is fine except for the camber so probability no bent suspension components or torn bushings. As a side note lowering the car will slowly kill the compression arm bushings.

 

Check inner tie rods & lower ball joints for play.

 

OEM or aftermarket wheels? Is there a hub centric adapter ring missing?

 

Wheels are OEM and i would really like to check the ball joints but not sure how haha... Do you have to take he whole control arm off to check them? Also, the bolts have been xcorrectly torqued and there shouldn't been any rust or oxidation on the mating surface considering this car is rust free and doesn't even have 20,000 miles on it. But no, I did not check before installation. I will check the tie rods but there is no sign of that being the reason considering virtually no play in the steering or anything.

Think I'm going to re balance the wheels, if that doesn't work I'll throw a pair of 245 40 18s I have on the front just to see if the noise stops, and if it still does it I will replace the MOOG hub bearing with an OEM brand one and hopefully this will solve my issue. Not sure what else to do

 

The diagnosing starts at 5min. He is looking for noise but the video also goes through the general diagnosis of suspension and steering components.