Once again, you are the master I am the idiot. What is the difference in the "dry" boilng point and the "wet" boiling point? Is the Castrol SRF that much better?

 

The dry boiling point is the boiling point without any contaminents in the fluid (ie: moisture/water). On a street car you get mositure in contaminents in the system no mater what you do, so for real world use the only number that really counts in the wet boiling point.

Bottom line, Castrol SRF is the best.

 

i really like motul....

 

After reading more about the Castrol it's explained the same way. I switched to the Castrol SRF. momoney! momoney!

 

Castrol SRF is THE BEST. Better than Motul, ATE, AP etc, thats why it is $60-70 a liter. You will really like it, works great, just bleed the brakes after every track day and you will be ok.

 

What? Bleed the brakes after each track day? Why?

 

Unless you're running a big brake and driving an enduro, I question if Castrol SRF is a economical decision. SRF was designed as a racing brake fluid for GT cars or F1 cars that stop on a dime at 4-5G's. I'm not sure ~$60-70 liter is worth it for a little ole 350Z at a HPDE in which case you are much more likely to experience a mechanical or wear failure before boiling vapor brake loss. I do agree that the SRF is probably the best brake fluid available to consumers and maybe I'd consider it if I was racing a Porsche GT3 in a 12 hour race. I've been happy with Motul RBF 600 at about half the cost...I've experienced fade on the pads before I was ever worried about boiling the fluid over.

 

Because if you drive with that on the street, it will get water in it, and yor brakes will not work nearly as good as they should.

Water in brake fluid == bad!

CaptinB

 

I've been very lucky not to boil my OEM fluid but I've seen a few Z's do this at the track. My instructor uses it and my racing partner uses it so we'll give it a try. There's going to be alot of track days for me here in July and August and I'd really just like the piece of mind. By the way my next car will be, if I live long enough, a GT3.

 

You can't avoid water and contamination from normal driving. At the same time, factory brake fluid in general is spec'd at around 290 degrees wet boiling point. And OEM fluid is a helluva lot cheaper. Once you get up to the 400+ degree range that's when I start to wonder if the SRF is worth it relative to what it was created for. The Motul RBF has a wet boiling point at 420 degrees while the SRF is at ~520. I can't see the 350Z going anywhere above the 420 yet stay below the 520 of the SRF especially at twice the price.

 

Geez, you sound like my wife! Let it go man. She can't understand why I need 1.rollbar 2.5 way harness 3.lap timer 4.suspension kit 5.lighter wheels and finallly a new video camera so that I can capture all the excitement!

 

Check out this link from our homepage...
http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/brakefluid1a.htm

We typically recommend Motul RBF 600. It is available for sale on our site. ATE super blue/Type 200 (same fluid but different color) and Motul Dot 5.1 are also good choices that are a little cheaper. Castrol SRF is a great fluid, but doesn't make any sense for the average joe $-wise.

 

i do lotz of track event too.
RBF600 handles the high temperature pretty well on the track already.u should try it first, and then decide if u want to spend the extra money.
just my 2 cents

 

Thanks guys!

 

I need 1.rollbar 2.5 way harness 3.lap timer 4.suspension kit 5.lighter wheels and finallly a new video camera so that I can capture all the excitement!

F Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the help today. Let me know if you get that damn email.

 

No problem buddy, anytime! I think our girl is ******* us.