Noob buffer
I'm looking to completely remove all the paint swirls from my z. The meguiars scratch x just isnt cutting it and im uber sick of it. What do I need to buff out all the paint swirls. I'm looking to get one of the orbital buffers(i believe thats the one you cant burn the paint with) What pads and all that good stuff do i need. Also what buffer do I need. I'm assuming i can also use the buffer to apply wax polish and everything else. I also have a black z so the swirls are uber evident. Thanks for all the help. Also any and all tips are greatly appreciated.
Don't get a dual action buffer. They may not burn through paint, but they suck when it comes to swirls. Get a good orbital buffer, the one everyone's afraid of. I use a Porter Cable 7428. I've only burnt through paint once and that was when I was getting used to the new buffer. I used a Dewalt DW849 when I worked at the other shop. I never burnt through with it. Just start out slow. Also for these they have pads for buffing and pads for polishing.
A rotary is the worst idea for a detailing newb, I'll guarantee he'll burn through his paint using a rotary. It takes a while to get the hang of it, and a Z isn't the place to start to learn. A porter cable random orbital is a much better choice, and works fine on swirls on the soft nissan paint.
Originally Posted by creationv2
^^jw howd you burn through, not paying attention?
Originally Posted by redlude97
A rotary is the worst idea for a detailing newb, I'll guarantee he'll burn through his paint using a rotary. It takes a while to get the hang of it, and a Z isn't the place to start to learn. A porter cable random orbital is a much better choice, and works fine on swirls on the soft nissan paint.
They're not that bad. I learned on one. You just have to use common sense. Start slow, keep it moving, don't put pressure on it, and use long strokes. If he follows that he should be fine. Also don't buff corners.
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well if he has another car liek a beater or something to practice on then the rotary isnt so bad...but if not better be safe than sorrry and get something like a porter cable random orbital
Originally Posted by 03Zilverstone
Don't get a dual action buffer. They may not burn through paint, but they suck when it comes to swirls. Get a good orbital buffer, the one everyone's afraid of. I use a Porter Cable 7428. I've only burnt through paint once and that was when I was getting used to the new buffer. I used a Dewalt DW849 when I worked at the other shop. I never burnt through with it. Just start out slow. Also for these they have pads for buffing and pads for polishing.
Zspectrum; I just watched that video and it definitely something you should watch, go browse around autopia.org and autogeekonline.net if you have some spare time. Both of the forums have thousands of posts about black cars and swirls I'm sure...just read the threads and see what people are using and how they like it.
Is it really a buffer thing or the material he should use? Zaino, who everyone here seems to love, say that you can use their stuff to get rid of swirls and also they say to use their applicator pads instead of any buffers
Originally Posted by 03Zilverstone
Don't get a dual action buffer. They may not burn through paint, but they suck when it comes to swirls. Get a good orbital buffer, the one everyone's afraid of. I use a Porter Cable 7428. I've only burnt through paint once and that was when I was getting used to the new buffer. I used a Dewalt DW849 when I worked at the other shop. I never burnt through with it. Just start out slow. Also for these they have pads for buffing and pads for polishing.
I almost considered deleting that post thinking that someone was posting bad advice on purpose. It's the absolute worse thing to recommend, especially for a newb to start with.
Originally Posted by ZSpectrum
I'm looking to completely remove all the paint swirls from my z. The meguiars scratch x just isnt cutting it and im uber sick of it. What do I need to buff out all the paint swirls. I'm looking to get one of the orbital buffers(i believe thats the one you cant burn the paint with) What pads and all that good stuff do i need. Also what buffer do I need. I'm assuming i can also use the buffer to apply wax polish and everything else. I also have a black z so the swirls are uber evident. Thanks for all the help. Also any and all tips are greatly appreciated.
1) Porter-Cable 7336SP
2) 6" Velcro backing plate: http://www.topoftheline.com/porcabvelpad.html
3) 7½" Lake Country VC foam polishing pads: http://www.topoftheline.com/7durvelpad.html
I use the Yellow, White and Black pads. You'll probably want two, maybe three of each.
4) Polishes: I use 3M Medium Cut Rubbing Compound (39001); 3M Swirl Mark Remover (39009); Zaino Z-PC Polish/Cleaner.
The compound is for removing moderate scratches, deposits on paint, rough spots, etc.
The SMR is for removing swirl marks, hazing caused by the compound or other polishes.
The Z-PC is for use in place of the SMR on a Zainoed car.
5) Helpful instructions on how to use the Porter-Cable:
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14421
http://www.roadfly.com/magazine/7/po..._buffer.1.html
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/det...1430487&page=1
The P-C can be bought at Lowes for $109. The backing plate and pads come from www.TopOfTheLine.com. The 3M products I get from a local CarQuest Paint Store. It's a special version of a CarQuest parts store that sells professional paint supplies and equipment. The 3M products are pretty widely available in any case.
Originally Posted by oclor
Is it really a buffer thing or the material he should use? Zaino, who everyone here seems to love, say that you can use their stuff to get rid of swirls and also they say to use their applicator pads instead of any buffers
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
NO! NO! NO!
I almost considered deleting that post thinking that someone was posting bad advice on purpose. It's the absolute worse thing to recommend, especially for a newb to start with.
I almost considered deleting that post thinking that someone was posting bad advice on purpose. It's the absolute worse thing to recommend, especially for a newb to start with.
Bad advice please.
I'm a body man. I know how hard stuff is. Like I said he will be fine as long as he follows those guidelines. Now if he veers from that, yeah, he can screw up his paint. If he starts out slow like I said he'll be fine. Hell I started out with a DW849. Never did I burn through or haze a paint job with it because I did that stuff. I'm talking from experience. This isn't like some of the crap I see where it has to be true, because a few people said it. Please don't insult my intelligence again, with a weak matter of opinion.
Using the G-100 to remove swirls, scratches and etchings...
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ghlight=pounds
buy from http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ghlight=pounds
buy from http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com
Originally Posted by 03Zilverstone
Bad advice please.
I'm a body man. I know how hard stuff is. Like I said he will be fine as long as he follows those guidelines. Now if he veers from that, yeah, he can screw up his paint. If he starts out slow like I said he'll be fine. Hell I started out with a DW849. Never did I burn through or haze a paint job with it because I did that stuff. I'm talking from experience. This isn't like some of the crap I see where it has to be true, because a few people said it. Please don't insult my intelligence again, with a weak matter of opinion.
I'm a body man. I know how hard stuff is. Like I said he will be fine as long as he follows those guidelines. Now if he veers from that, yeah, he can screw up his paint. If he starts out slow like I said he'll be fine. Hell I started out with a DW849. Never did I burn through or haze a paint job with it because I did that stuff. I'm talking from experience. This isn't like some of the crap I see where it has to be true, because a few people said it. Please don't insult my intelligence again, with a weak matter of opinion.It's not my opinion, it a fact supported by virtually every reputable detailer. And considering what I've seen some bodyshops do to a car, I'd be reluctant to let a body man advise me or anybody else on items pertaining to detailing. I'll follow the advice of the detailers first. After all, you're recommending a brute-force solution to a delicate problem.
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
If you're a "real" body man, then you would be the only person that I would recommend that they take an orbital buffer to their car. If you're not trained and experienced with a high speed orbital, it's foolish to attempt to remove swirls from a new car with one. 99% of the people on this forum, myself included, should never use one. In fact, the existance of the ROB makes it so we never have to use an orbital.
It's not my opinion, it a fact supported by virtually every reputable detailer. And considering what I've seen some bodyshops do to a car, I'd be reluctant to let a body man advise me or anybody else on items pertaining to detailing. I'll follow the advice of the detailers first. After all, you're recommending a brute-force solution to a delicate problem.
It's not my opinion, it a fact supported by virtually every reputable detailer. And considering what I've seen some bodyshops do to a car, I'd be reluctant to let a body man advise me or anybody else on items pertaining to detailing. I'll follow the advice of the detailers first. After all, you're recommending a brute-force solution to a delicate problem.
I've been taught through a company on how to professionally detail, and we spent a couple hours going over a ROB and all the dos and don'ts. Would I recommend a ROB to a detailing n00b? Yes and no. Yes in the sense once you get some time under your belt there is no better way to correct micro marring (swirls) than with a ROB. But no, I wouldn't recommend to start trying immediately on a z. Go to a junk yard and buy some beat fenders, or a hood and practice on that first. Once you get the hang of it then maybe do a small section of your car taking it extra slow! Make sure you are using the right compound, pad, and speed and you NEVER let the product dry while buffing. It's very easy to let the buffer get the best of you and you burn the paint, or when you buff something like a bumper to melt some plastic if you aren't careful. Sometimes the damage isn't even noticeable immediately, you may just burn some clear and a few years from now your paint starts fading horribly in that spot because you no longer have the clear to preserve the paint. A ROB is a double edged sword, it can do a lot of good in the right hands, but also do terrible things in the hands of a n00b or worse, a noob that thinks he's a pro.
Originally Posted by push
I've been taught through a company on how to professionally detail, and we spent a couple hours going over a ROB and all the dos and don'ts. Would I recommend a ROB to a detailing n00b? Yes and no. Yes in the sense once you get some time under your belt there is no better way to correct micro marring (swirls) than with a ROB. But no, I wouldn't recommend to start trying immediately on a z. Go to a junk yard and buy some beat fenders, or a hood and practice on that first. Once you get the hang of it then maybe do a small section of your car taking it extra slow! Make sure you are using the right compound, pad, and speed and you NEVER let the product dry while buffing. It's very easy to let the buffer get the best of you and you burn the paint, or when you buff something like a bumper to melt some plastic if you aren't careful. Sometimes the damage isn't even noticeable immediately, you may just burn some clear and a few years from now your paint starts fading horribly in that spot because you no longer have the clear to preserve the paint. A ROB is a double edged sword, it can do a lot of good in the right hands, but also do terrible things in the hands of a n00b or worse, a noob that thinks he's a pro.
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