Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

What are your opinions on the Opti-Coat2 product and how does it compare to the other sealants? It seems this sealant can last a very long time on your car. Why does it not get more recognition? It seems like this would be a great product that would help you reduce the amount of time you would need to spend waxing your car because of how long it would protect your car.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Sorry I didn't read this before vacation, but I'd be happy to help. Are you sure it's not where a counter balance was on your wheels? Anyways you could try the goo gone or the Stoner Tarminator but test it on a small area and spray on a towel and agitate the affected area. Don't spray it all over. When you are done you are going to have to polish the whole wheel with something like the P21S Metal Polishing Soap. It will help remove any haze left on the wheels from a stronger cleaner. Going forward only use a pH neutral wheel cleaner like the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect. It's highly effective and safe on all finishes! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Unfortunately I don't think there are any quick fixes here for something that large. I'd take it to some of the best body shops in your area for recommendations. Good luck and keep us posted with some before and after pics if you can.

Greg @ DI

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

The Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating is an amazing product that does far exceed any other sealant we have. It's much more of a permanent coating you apply to your clear coat. The draw backs are that you really want to polish the paint extremely well before hand because if swirls, contaminants, oxidation are underneath it, they will be trapped there and you can't just buff them out. The other downside is the application is a bit more involved and precise where as anyone can apply a sealant with virtually no issues. So in short yes it's everything it states in the description but the prep work and application process means it may not be right for most detailers.

Greg @ DI

Tenacious T

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Greg, I know it wasn't from a counter balance. It is on the outside of the lip not in the inner wheel where the weights go. It was a stringy sticky wad of gum for sure. I'll try out your suggestions and see how it works. Thanks again.

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, I just ordered it from your site. Looking forward to applying this to my fairly new Lexus.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Glad to help out guys and don't hesitate to ask any other questions!

Greg @ DI

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

I have a customer (I detail his S2k) who has another jalopy that he is having a hard time with some stubborn water spots. He wants to clean it up before they put it up for sale. What do you suggest? The car probably hasn't been detailed in years.

Separate question - I have an 18 year old Nissan 300ZX TT. The paint is all original minus the hood (where I had a custom scoop put in for cooling) and the rear wing. The aftermarket paint is VERY soft, to the point that it will scratch to the (dry) touch of a microfiber towel. . . badly. I have used P21S to keep the black paint looking shiny and glossy, but it's time to give it some love to remove as much of the swirls on the soft paint that have accumulated over the years. I have a DA polisher, but could probably use some new wheels for it. Thanks!

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

If the watermarks are on the glass I highly recommend the Glass Science Glass Scrub, I use it regularly even if I don't have water marks, it's great for releasing contaminants trapped in the glass. For the paint there are only two solutions I know of for water marks that have etched in to the clear coat. If they are light the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover is a great choice. For more noticeable etchings I'd suggest polishing the paint. Again if they are relatively light etchings the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 is a great polishing option. It can be applied by hand, but optimal results are achieved with a quality buffer. If that is not enough you'll also need the M105 which is a stronger polish that is highly effective and very popular. However if you need a two step process I recommend investing in a buffer because you'll get significantly better results in less time. A kit like the DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads would be a great choice if interested. The buffer included (PC 7424 XP) is completely safe for anyone to use as it can not burn the paint but it's still strong enough to work in the polish for professional results.

To bring some new life to this paint I'd recommend using the same products listed above. Start with the M205 and the white pad and see if that satisfies your goals. If you're looking for something closer to perfection step up to the M105 and it should remove the vast majority of swirls, oxidation, water marks, etc. so the clear coat is optically clear again. If you are really concerned with any haze being left behind you can follow up this two step combination with the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD) and a black or blue pad. This ultra light polish is great for "jeweling" the paint for that extra little bit of shine. Afterwards apply your favorite sealant or wax to protect the paint and enhance the shine. If you need a recommendation don't hesitate to ask.

Hope this helps and don't hesitate to ask questions!

Greg @ DI

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Greg,
Thanks for the (public) reply!

sluggoZ

iTrader: (129)

Hey Greg... I have several questions.
1. At the beginning of your thread you were promoting the Menzerna Intensive polish & the Menzerna Final Polish II & Menzerna PO106FF Polish as the last two steps & lately I see the Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish), Merzerna Micro Polish SF4500 (PO85RD).
but lately your suggesting the Meguiars Ultra-Cut Compound M105 & Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

2. What is your opinion of Migilore wax?

3. "" "" "" California duster?

4. Once a Sealant is old or used up....are there any after effects on the paint?
Is it going to take longer to detail all over again?

5. Which of the two Sealant's are the best & what are the differences? Poorboy's World EX-P or Blackfire Wet Diamond w/Polycharger.


6. What is the difference between Glaze & Polish? I thought they were the same.

Thanks!

NJVinny350z

iTrader: (1)

What's your suggestion for the best window cleaning product, that won't streak, and will leave the windshield as clean as possible, Windex isn't cutting it.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Thank you for the questions I'd be happy to help!

1.) Over the years new products and information is available that certainly shapes our recommendations. I currently now generally recommend the M105 and M205 or the Menzerna PO83 (aka Super Intensive Polish) and Menzerna PO106FA (aka Super Finish). Both of them are exceptional combos that can remove the majority of fine swirls and oxidation. Many people prefer the Megs combo because it's far less expensive and the M105 may have just a bit more cutting power. Either one will work just fine!

2.) Definitely good stuff

3.) Even though I know I could make money selling it I refuse to do so because I don't believe I could sell it in good faith as a high quality detailing product. I feel it's too likely to cause swirls and ultra fine scratches.

4.) When a sealant has faded you'll have less protection and eventually no protection left on the clear coat. Therefore you are more likely to accumulate contaminants and surface imperfections. Another detail will not necessarily be harder but you may want to do more steps (i.e. clay and polish) instead of just sealing again in the future. I hope that answers the question if not please let me know.

5.) Not even that close, the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is much better. You'll get a much deeper and glossier shine and the protection is more durable, but it costs more. I do believe the extra money is well worth it though and you'll love the results!

6.) Technically a glaze is a type of polish but in reality they are quite different in most instances. Polishes can either chemically or physically (micro-abrasives) correct the surface to safely remove surface imperfections. Glazes are generally a super light polish with a lot of oils and fillers in them. They help hide ultra fine imperfections and add more gloss to the surface, but it won't bond to the paint. Layer a sealant or wax on top to help lock it in, but the glaze will reduce the durability of the sealant on top of it. Check out our detailing guide for more info!

Greg @ DI

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Make sure it's an ammonia free formula like Stoner Invisible Glass or the Chemical Guys Window Clean. However the real key is mainly your technique. Make sure the car is cool and you must work in shade, with two clean microfiber towels. Use the first one with just enough cleaner, don't go overboard with the cleaner. Use a second towel to buff off any remaining residue right after. If you need help the Stoner Invisible Glass Reach and Clean Microfiber Mop Tool is an awesome investment.

Greg @ DI

morphiusrt

iTrader: (7)

Just 3 questions for me this week.

1. My friends S2000 we are having trouble cleaning the top. What should we use?

2. Do you sell some type of protectant for it? Its canvas not vinyl.

3. I see you don't recomend the california duster. I have a black car and everyday it gets more and more dust on it. Do you have any recomendations to remove this dust?

Thanks in advanced.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

1. and 2.) Assuming it's a fabric the Raggtopp Convertible Top Cleaner - Fabric and Vinyl Tops is a great cleaner that I use after a traditional washing. Using a soft scrub brush may be needed to break up contaminants trapped deep in the fibers. After it's completely dry spray on the Raggtopp Fabric Protectant on it to help repel contaminants and moisture.

3.) There is no quick fix here. In my opinion your best bet is to fold a thick microfiber towel in fourths (DI Microfiber Ultra Plush Two Sided Towel) and use a quality quick detailer (Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe (S&W)). Mist it on the paint and wipe with light pressure, refold the towel every panel or half of panel, exposing a fresh surface. Therefore each towel should get 8 sides and you'll need about two towels for the task.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Greg @ DI

sluggoZ

iTrader: (129)

I just finished using Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish on my aluminum wheels.
Do I still have to appy a wax to help deter brake dust build up?
If so.....is Wheel Wax as good as Poorboys World Wheel Sealant?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

For long term protection I would still protect the wheels after polishing them. I would not use a carnauba wax on them but a synthetic sealant like the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant or the Wheel Wax Wheel Wax would work well. The Wheel Wax is actually a cleaner and sealant in one which is good, but I prefer the more durable protection of the Wheel Sealant which does not clean at all, especially if I've already polished.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

sluggoZ

iTrader: (129)

Thanks!

g-Know

iTrader: (2)

What would you recommend for cleaning my bronze LMGT4 wheels? They have what appears to be grease stains that I haven't been able to remove with anything else. I also want something that'll give the lip a nice shine to it. Thanks!