I just finished up completely detailing my car for the first time since I bought it (2 months ago). Of course, I washed/dried and then started the claybarring process.

I used Meguiar's Clay Bar and Meguiar's Quick Detailer as lube. I really feel like it didn't do a very good job. Sure, it worked... But I had "tar" spots on my PPW that had faded, and it didn't even get close to taking those off. Anyway, I don't plan on using it again, so does anyone have any better suggestions for claybar next time?

 

"Bug Off" should remove the tar spots. Also, its best to use a dishwashing liqiud soap when you wash to remove any old waxes. Other than that I assume one claybar is as good as the next though I could be wrong on that. Last time I clayed I used the Zaino product.

 

Clay bar is an excellent product when used correctly. You need a cleaner to remove the tar spots, then need to polish any paint damage that the tar caused, then wax it.

NEVER use dishwashing soap. This is straight from my Meguiar's short course last weekend.
Clay material all comes from the same manufacturer, so although they may be slightly different in composition between the brands, the bulk compositions are from the same supplier.

 

I use to use Dawn to degrease and remove any old wax prior to a new detail, but the paint always felt really dry and not very smooth afterwards. I switched to Citrus Wash from CG and had better results and a smoother finish. Clay bars are great to remove contaminants and other surface grime, but if your car is relatively new and the paint is in good shape, you may not notice a great deal of improvement from claying alone, but after the complete detail/process I still think it is worth the extra step once a year. Most clay bars work as well as the other, Clay Magic, CG, and Griots offer the biggest bars for the buck.

 

Well, here is what I did:

Meguiar's Gold Class Wash with Sheepskin mit for upper & microfiber mit for wheels
Detailed Image Waffle Weave Dry
Meguiar's Clay Barr with Meguiar's Quick Detail Spray
Meguiar's Gold Class Wash & Dry Again
Porter Cable 7424, Lake Country Orange Pad, Menzerna Power Finish PO203S (twice over each panel)
Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Soft Wax (sit for 30 mins, then removed with microfiber)

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I own a PPW, the car looks very deep and glossy. I had originally planned on using Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze with a Lake Country Blue Pad AFTER the Power Finish, but I ran out of time and I wanted to at least get the car protected. I also had planned on using Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109 after the Finishing Touch Glaze and then waxing. But, like I said, I ran out of time.

The problem spots on my car are mainly on the back bumper on the area where the Nissan Emblem is. There are a few other random "tar" spots, and some did come out after polishing. Next time when I have time to do all of the steps I want they'll come out. Originally I had been told that the clay bar would more than likely get rid of these spots, however it didn't. The polish definitely lightened them.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

You can pretreat the area with the Stoner Tarminator or other degreaser. This should help loosen up the build ups and ensure your clay bar work is more effective. If you have really stubborn build ups you can try the Medium Grade clay bar, but I try to save this for only tough jobs. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

I've always used clay magic clay bars with either their lube or the stuff from detailed image called Klear Kote. I like it because it sort of acts as a polish as well.

Then I apply my glaze, sealant and wax

 

Like others say..clay bar will not remove tar. You're expecting to much. It'll remove small contaminated spots (such as dirt/dust that won't come off on a regular wash).

 

Alrighty -- thanks for the help! I bought Chemical Guys Grime Reaper to use for next time.