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ok I give up!!!

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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 08:57 PM
  #1  
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lentronic
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Smile ok I give up!!!

I own a super black touring and I'm filled with swirls, scratches and overall uneasyness... Should I clay bar? If so should I just spend the cash and let a detail shop do it? Most of the scratches appear to be in the clearcoat but some on the fiberglass go deeper.. I'm almost tempted to get it repainted a custom color and getting it done right.. Nissan screwed us w/h its paint job..
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 04:18 AM
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The claybar might help with some of the uneasyness you mentioned (if it's due to embedded comtaminants) but it wont help with the scratches and swirls. You could spend a small amount of money and have a good detailer try to buff them out. If that doesn't work, you could spend a much larger amount of money to have the paint redone. The most important thing I learned about repainting is to find the right shop, and that can be very difficult.
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 04:43 AM
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Go to Pep Boys and get 3M swirl mark remover for dark colors. You can use it by hand but it will take a bit longer.

Follow up with 3M Finesse-It and you'll be in good shape.
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 09:09 AM
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lentronic
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From: nj
Default thanks guys

as far as contaminants go.. nope.. just scratches & swirls and where I replaced the factory rear spoiler for a nismo there is the outline of the old wing on the hood.. tried everything to remove! It's not the glue.. that's gone but it's like it dug into the clearcoat..
ahhhh!

Len
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 10:19 AM
  #5  
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Originally posted by EddieJr
Go to Pep Boys and get 3M swirl mark remover for dark colors. You can use it by hand but it will take a bit longer.

Follow up with 3M Finesse-It and you'll be in good shape.
3M Finesse IT II is MUCH more abrasive than 3M Swirl Mark Remover part number 39009 so you you NOT use that after the Swirl Mark Remover, the proper way would be to use the Finesse It II FIRST and THEN use the 3M Swirl Mark Remover and then use your final finish wax or polish............
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 10:27 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: ok I give up!!!

Originally posted by lentronic
I own a super black touring and I'm filled with swirls, scratches and overall uneasyness... Should I clay bar? If so should I just spend the cash and let a detail shop do it? Most of the scratches appear to be in the clearcoat but some on the fiberglass go deeper.. I'm almost tempted to get it repainted a custom color and getting it done right.. Nissan screwed us w/h its paint job..
Your getting the cart before the horse, even if you do get it fixed will it stay that way?? Not unless you first address what is it that you yourself are doing to the surface to cause all these scratches and swirls, is it your buffing towels? your washing mit? are you rubbing on the surface when it is too dirty and should really be washed? are people leaning or sitting on the car?

98% of all cars have swirl marks and fine scratches including brand new cars.

Why? Because of dealer prepping and using an abrasive polish combined with the wrong towels and incorrect washing of towels. Abrasives and Polyester in towels are the most common causes of swirl marks and fine scratches, especially on brand new
paint finishes. The dealer is the first person to start the swirl process on a paint finish.

Here's a way to check if your paint has swirls or scratches. Look at your paint finish under fluorescent lighting. This will let you see every mark on the paint surface. Then you be the judge.

I am totally against using abrasives on paint finishes. Abrasives, no matter how fine, create new scratches, they should be avoided and only used when absolutely necessary. And then only by a trained professional. The clear-coat on today's paint
finishes is very thin and abrasive products will thin it even further and hurt it, in the long run creating many more swirl marks and fine scratches.

All swirl removers contain abrasives and are loaded with silicone oils and other oils.

Zaino Show Car Polish contains no Abrasives or Silicone oils. Although abrasives remove scratches they create new scratches and swirls and they thin out the clear-coat. Silicone oil camouflages swirls and scratches, temporarily, as soon as the
oil washes away or evaporates the swirls are visible again. Kinda a Catch-22. Z-5 fills swirls and scratches and does not create any new scratches. Because Z-5 durability is so high and will not wash away. The scratches will stay filled. That's the hot ticket to a flawless paint finish.

The Z-5 is applied, as per directions, and will fill swirls and scratches in stages. One to three coats of Z-5 depending on the amount and degree of scratches. Z-2 should always be the last coat of polish on the car. Z-2 has higher optics than Z-5. You can
go from Z-2 to Z-5 and back to Z-2 anytime you like. Always use Z-6 "Gloss Enhancer spray between each and ever coat of Z-5 or Z-2.

With deeper swirls and fine scratches sometimes the use of an mild abrasive product like 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirl Mark Remover #39009 is necessary.. I try to avoid the use of abrasives and would try my best with Z5, to see if it will correct
the problem. However if you don't see a visible difference after 1 or 2 coats of Z-5. Waiting 6 to 24 hours between coats of Z-5... Then you need to use the 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirl Mark Remover #39009... see following tips...

3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze use By hand:
Simply apply a small amount (about the size of a quarter) to a cotton diaper or piece of cotton towel and rub back and forth into about a 1'X 1' section using light to medium pressure until it starts to dry out. Then take a second towel and lightly rub
back and forth until the polish residue disappears and the gloss comes up. If there are still some swirls visible you can repeat this step until they are minimal. I prefer using a less aggressive product a couple times instead of using a more aggressive
product once. After you have done the entire car you can Dawn wash and reapply your favorite wax/polish or Zaino Z-1 and Z-5/Z-2.

3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze use By orbital:

Use a foam bonnet and apply the polish in a thin lined growing circle starting from the center and spacing the growing line about an inch from the last round all the way to the edge. Place the bonnet flat on a panel and activate the polisher and begin working the entire panel using light to medium pressure. When you have worked the panel thoroughly then take a clean towel and wipe the residue off in a back and forth motion using light pressure. Then simply move to the next section. When the entire car is done do a Dawn wash and Zaino.


DO NOT ever use cotton T-shirts on your car. They contain polyester and will cause swirl marks and scratch your paint finish. Use my #314 applicator pad for applying my polish. Read my Tips & Tricks sheet. www.zainobros.com

Towels must be 100% Made in USA. Name Brand(Cannon or Fieldcrest Towels). These towels are always 100% Cotton. Most other Brand name towels I've analyzed are not 100% Cotton but a blend of cotton and polyester. The cotton material is
from overseas and is not federally regulated. Even though they say 100% Cotton they are not.

You must use only white. Not colored towels.....Colored towels are not to be used because the dye leaves a chemical residue on the paint finish. Always wash your towels first before using. Use Liquid detergent and rinse twice. Do not use Powdered
detergent, Bleach or any type of Fabric softener. Make sure to run rinse cycle twice to remove all detergent.

You should cut the selvages(borders) off the perimeter of the towels. This selvage contains nylon and polyester stitching that could possibly scratch your paint finish. The towels will fray a little once this is done. But it's better to play it safe.

Drying the towels on high heat will make them hold a static charge. I use the regular heat setting and remove them a little damp and let them air dry. You can fluff the towel real good when it's dry to make it softer.

As the towels get older they will lose there nap and absorbency and will have to be replaced.

I don't like sponges natural or synthetic, they all can scratch...

I prefer The Absorber to dry with if you want to use a chamios.
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 12:31 PM
  #7  
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Dude, you have black, what did you expect? It happens to us all. Is the DVD ready yet??????????????????????
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 01:01 PM
  #8  
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My mistake, I had them backwards. Its been a long time since I've had to use them.
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 01:28 PM
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Kevin,

You say you don't use a sponge? I take it you use a 100% cotton towel to wash also.

Please enlighten me, I am trying to get all the ingredients for a super shine on my PPW.

1st start was the Zaino
2nd was I am going into my garage and throwing away all my t-shirts and sponges.
3rd. I am going to get the 100% cotton towels and the blade thingy that Dr. Bonz uses to get the car dry. Can't remember the name but its has a silicon type blade.
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 03:13 PM
  #10  
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Kevin Overall
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Originally posted by zand02max
Kevin,

You say you don't use a sponge? I take it you use a 100% cotton towel to wash also.

Please enlighten me, I am trying to get all the ingredients for a super shine on my PPW.

1st start was the Zaino
2nd was I am going into my garage and throwing away all my t-shirts and sponges.
3rd. I am going to get the 100% cotton towels and the blade thingy that Dr. Bonz uses to get the car dry. Can't remember the name but its has a silicon type blade.
I use a 100% cotton washing mit, I would use toweling but I like the fact that I can put my hand inside the mit and there is not chance of dropping it. I never ever use a sponge on any type of automotive paint

Personally, I use The Absorber to dry with....
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