OEM CV-Joint my ass....
#1
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OEM CV-Joint my ***....
I ran at IDRC today, first time in the new setup, since I don't have the Navigator yet I had to run my street map (14 psi) which is way too rich A/F 9.6, hopefully Sam will take care of that when he gets back from vacation.
The MT ET Street Radials are by far the best tires I have ever run, they hooked like crazy and no wobbling whatsoever. However they were too beefey (275/60/15) I will have to go back to 275/50/15 because I had to launch at 6500 rpm in order to avoid heavy bogging and still could only manage 1.8 60's
On my first elimination run I had a great launch but once I hit second I suddenly heard a loud burst and the car slowed down. I thought I'd blown the engine but then I heard the Clinking noise from the rear. My CV-Joint literally exploded, looks nasty. The Axles look fine. I had the car towed to Perf Nissan (I need to get a trailor)
So since Driveshaft Shop keeps on insisting that the OEM CV joints can hold up and I just obviously proved that that ain't true (as well as some others) what are the alternatives? Is anyone making a stronger joint? What are the Performance Motorsport people running?
BTW, the ats clutch has a high engagement and not slipping I believe that to be another factor.
Any suggestions?
The MT ET Street Radials are by far the best tires I have ever run, they hooked like crazy and no wobbling whatsoever. However they were too beefey (275/60/15) I will have to go back to 275/50/15 because I had to launch at 6500 rpm in order to avoid heavy bogging and still could only manage 1.8 60's
On my first elimination run I had a great launch but once I hit second I suddenly heard a loud burst and the car slowed down. I thought I'd blown the engine but then I heard the Clinking noise from the rear. My CV-Joint literally exploded, looks nasty. The Axles look fine. I had the car towed to Perf Nissan (I need to get a trailor)
So since Driveshaft Shop keeps on insisting that the OEM CV joints can hold up and I just obviously proved that that ain't true (as well as some others) what are the alternatives? Is anyone making a stronger joint? What are the Performance Motorsport people running?
BTW, the ats clutch has a high engagement and not slipping I believe that to be another factor.
Any suggestions?
#2
My350z
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im still on stock axles, i pulled over 6 1.6 60 foots with them.
PM has been running the level 5 axles for a long time now with no issues. i will be running them very soon , i have been trying to break the stock ones, i keep launching harder and harder, i just cant break them...
i REALLY REALLY preload the clutch, where i keep my foot on the brake and the gas and the clutch at the same time, so i can launch a little harder, then i pretty much just drop it really fast...
sorry man, i need some times, did you get any runs in??
oh yeah, and get some ET drags man!!!!! hehehe there are even better...
PM has been running the level 5 axles for a long time now with no issues. i will be running them very soon , i have been trying to break the stock ones, i keep launching harder and harder, i just cant break them...
i REALLY REALLY preload the clutch, where i keep my foot on the brake and the gas and the clutch at the same time, so i can launch a little harder, then i pretty much just drop it really fast...
sorry man, i need some times, did you get any runs in??
oh yeah, and get some ET drags man!!!!! hehehe there are even better...
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Problem is that the ATS clutch is almost impossible to preload, there is so little engagement. Also note that the joint did not snap during launch but while shifting into 2nd. I think your slipping clutch is saving you right now.
Anyway, since it was the first time running the new setup I had to struggle with not hitting the limiter since it's now back to stock setting down from 7200 where I had it before. That is a huge adjustment and the tires I believe where just too big. On top of that running a way too rich map...bottomline my best run was a 12.06 at 120 mph which is pathetic since I ran 12.100 at 118 mph before I had the engine built.
Not happy about any of this
Anyway, since it was the first time running the new setup I had to struggle with not hitting the limiter since it's now back to stock setting down from 7200 where I had it before. That is a huge adjustment and the tires I believe where just too big. On top of that running a way too rich map...bottomline my best run was a 12.06 at 120 mph which is pathetic since I ran 12.100 at 118 mph before I had the engine built.
Not happy about any of this
#4
My350z
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yeah that sucks, it takes a few runs to get used to everything and work out the bugs, i havent driven a carbon clutch so i dont know exactly what i would do in this situation.
i think people are tuning these cars WAY too safe, i wish alberto would have gotten a clean run in to see where he was at.
what engine management you using Tom...??
i think people are tuning these cars WAY too safe, i wish alberto would have gotten a clean run in to see where he was at.
what engine management you using Tom...??
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well, the damage is worse, the cv joint ripped the inner ridge apart. I guess because it happened while driving so I need new axles as well. Since I am sooo out of money right now, I'll have them put my stock axles back on and just have to buy a new cv-joint. Then I need to figure out what to do next to avoid this from happening again.
Here's the odd thing: Performance nissan quoted me $650 for new axles $250 for the cv-joint (part of the $650)...that is almost as much as Driveshaft Stage II's...I thought oem axles are around $170...did I read this wrong in the past or is there something wrong with this picture?
Here's the odd thing: Performance nissan quoted me $650 for new axles $250 for the cv-joint (part of the $650)...that is almost as much as Driveshaft Stage II's...I thought oem axles are around $170...did I read this wrong in the past or is there something wrong with this picture?
#6
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Used axles can be had for cheaper. Im sorry to hear of this Tom, this is why I wont do axles I may just run stockers over and over and over, Id have to break them 5X to reach the price of the Stage 2's...I dont care what DSS says, you are now the 2nd guy to break the "super strong stock joints"
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Used axles can be had for cheaper. Im sorry to hear of this Tom, this is why I wont do axles I may just run stockers over and over and over, Id have to break them 5X to reach the price of the Stage 2's...I dont care what DSS says, you are now the 2nd guy to break the "super strong stock joints"
I wonder what performance motorsport runs in thei 8 second and 6 second Z's
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Originally Posted by Alberto
They run the Stage 5's with a welded CV joint(dont ask me exactly what they weld I wouldnt know)-a mod that Vinny Ten did to the PF Z...
#10
My350z
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i am thinking the part they weld would only be on a car WITH minimal suspension travel, its probably part that actuall lets the axle go up and down with the car.
i will be running Drive Shaft Shops level 5s here really soon and fully testing them out. we will see what happens, i am trying to break these damn axles... hehe
i will be running Drive Shaft Shops level 5s here really soon and fully testing them out. we will see what happens, i am trying to break these damn axles... hehe
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