When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You don't hook a switch up to the brake fuse. The point of the switch is to defeat the brake override without affecting VDC or your tail lights, so the fuse would need to be in-tact.
You simply cut the wire going into the ECM or do like I did and wire up a switch. I leave the switch in the 'open' position 24.7 anyways. The sole purpose of the wire going into the ECM is for the brake override otherwise known as 'brake always wins' function. This mod in no way affects VDC, brakelights or anything else. Only the ability to do burnouts.
Like mike said 28" is a bit tall. You need to heat them up alot more too. 1st gear barely does anything for me.
Also stay away from DR's if you care about your axles. Bias plys are far more forgiving on hard launches. I've gotten almost a dozen 1.6-1.7's and 50+ passes with my ET Streets and axles are fine. MT themselves actually recommend against DR's on manual cars.
Notes taken...I went with the slicks in hopes that they would forgive my drivetrain during launches. I do need to heat them up more since I notice I was chirping them on take off, 2nd and 3rd. Im going to give them another run and make the changes noted, before making the switch to the 26" tire. (M/T ET Streets) Thanks for the input...
Notes taken...I went with the slicks in hopes that they would forgive my drivetrain during launches. I do need to heat them up more since I notice I was chirping them on take off, 2nd and 3rd. Im going to give them another run and make the changes noted, before making the switch to the 26" tire. (M/T ET Streets) Thanks for the input...
Yup you shouldn't be hearing any chirping when they are hot enough. Unless the track sucks serious bawls. Whenever I thought my tires were hot enough they never were. you basically have to light them ***** on fire.
The only times I'd ever chirp my tires were when I was on street tires; never heard it on my slicks or my ET Streets. Chirping tires mean that you're spontaneously outputting more power than what the tires can handle at that time. Maybe the track has a lot of crap on it after the staging area, your tires aren't heated enough (or going bad), or you just need to reduce the pause between your shifts.
Here is an edited version of djamps vid of my car from Sat. There was no burnout this run, but it was the 3rd or 4th hot lap run. The car never stopped moving from the previous run until I hit the burnout box. You can hear in the beginning that the tires are sticky, etc. Even the first runs of the day with 10+ second burnouts and smoke all around they still did the same. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2zP2s0N_3U
Hot lapping is no better than a weak 1st gear burnout. 2nd gear or bust LOL. Guarantee if you lit them up like I did they wouldn't chirp. Let's not forget it was about 40deg this day, so nasty burnouts was more important than ever.
Can U send me a diagram or pic on how you did you brake overide mod with the switch?
Grab the service manual for your car and look for the ECM pinout -- I won't mention the color/pin # because it's different for G/Z/year. There is one wire usually green or pink that is the brake switch input. You cut that wire at the ECM and hook up a SPST switch in to open/close it.
Grab the service manual for your car and look for the ECM pinout -- I won't mention the color/pin # because it's different for G/Z/year. There is one wire usually green or pink that is the brake switch input. You cut that wire at the ECM and hook up a SPST switch in to open/close it.
12-13-2011, 02:46 PM
Chirping tires mean that you're spontaneously outputting more power than what the tires can handle at that time. Maybe the track has a lot of crap on it after the staging area, your tires aren't heated enough (or going bad), or you just need to reduce the pause between your shifts. 
I corrected it for ya.
