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Old May 23, 2008 | 07:10 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by daytona350z
indeed. especially after all the wrecks.

but i dont only drift my car, i take them to road courses, and i know if they see somehting t-ing into the factory lines like that, it would make them look twice. im sure they'd let you pass 90% of the time, but i'd rather make something like a dedicated caliper for this-a la rhys millen gto and solstice stuff.
oh man, ya a friend of mine just sent me the picture of Rhys millen solstice 2nd caliper set up......not bad...

here..i have a pic....

- j
Attached Thumbnails Hydro E-Brake-dsc_0277.jpg  
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 12:13 PM
  #22  
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Default Eureka !!!!

OKAY - I THINK I GOT IT!

THIS SET UP SHOULD NOT MESS WITH ABS?

This should work....the remote master cylinders and input from the hydro ebrake handle will provide the braking power to rears!

it will also force fluid back toward the abs unit, but that should be one way valved? shouldn't affect anything right???? --- thats about my only question???


DIAGRAM: 1ST PIC ATTACHED BELOW


WILWOOD TANDEM MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-7563: 2ND PIC ATTACHED BELOW


WILWOOD PEDAL ASSEMBLY - P/N 340-1290 3RD PIC ATTACHED BELOW
In this pic you can see where i super imposed (always wanted to do that....lol) the tandem master cylinder and showed my baller 8 ball handle to show how it would be a PULL instead of a push style!??

8 ball -



EDIT 11/12/10:
TO BE CLEAR!! WHAT I LISTED IS "NOT" AN IN-LINE SET UP!!!!

KSPORT, CNC EBRAKE HANDLES WILL NOT WORK AS CONFIGURED ABOVE!

THE ABOVE LISTED IS ADDING IN A 2ND MASTER WITH RESERVOIR!!! ONE WAY VALVED.


- J
Attached Thumbnails Hydro E-Brake-diagram.jpg   Hydro E-Brake-wilwood-tandem-master-cylinder.jpg   Hydro E-Brake-wilwood-pedal-assy.jpg  

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Nov 12, 2010 at 03:55 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 12:23 PM
  #23  
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^^ TO BE CLEAR!! WHAT I LISTED UP THERE IS "NOT" AN IN-LINE SET UP!!!!

KSPORT, CNC EBRAKE HANDLES WILL NOT WORK AS CONFIGURED ABOVE!

THE ABOVE LISTED IS ADDING IN A 2ND MASTER WITH RESERVOIR!!! ONE WAY VALVED.

Now, i know i know, just disable the abs.........which everyone else does......and believe me, im not one for trying to stay in warranty or any of that crap-o-la, but today was very slow at work, so i started reading the abs system section in the service manual, then the brake section, then i started searching online and wilwood web site had all the answers!

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Nov 12, 2010 at 03:55 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 12:47 PM
  #24  
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you my friend, are a genius. i've never learned this much info on here in two days.

looks like im def. gonna get a hydro e-brake. Shouldn't cost more then $150 right? Only thing is, im scared to **** it up
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by autodrifter4
you my friend, are a genius. i've never learned this much info on here in two days.

looks like im def. gonna get a hydro e-brake. Shouldn't cost more then $150 right? Only thing is, im scared to **** it up
lol....i doubt im genius material..........but i did spend a azz load of money and four f u k'n hard years to get my Engineering degree....



- J

wait, i just got sad........im still paying for that........

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Nov 20, 2008 at 12:55 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 12:56 PM
  #26  
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Cost: Well when i called wilwood they told me that the tandem master was $131, i havent called yet to find out the price on the pedal assembly....

Then adding in the lines, Y or T fittings, flare tool for flaring your existing factory hard lines, fittings for those flared lines, etc..then shipping.....i say your probably at the 250 mark...

-j
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 01:23 PM
  #27  
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ooohhh..........i figured out a better way on the hydro ebrake.........- to be continued......
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 05:06 AM
  #28  
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Default Option #2

Hi,

okay, here's another option. easier way to do this. It only required one more "T" or "Y" fitting.

MOST IMPORTANTLY - THIS SINGLE MASTER CYLINDER USES A SMALLER 5/8 BORE OVER THE ONE ABOVE WITH A 1 INCH BORE -

SOooo.: That means it will be easier to pull back and not require as long of a handle.

by my calculations you would need at least a 16 inch handle - 8 ball and all...lol

-J

DIAGRAM #2 - 1ST PIC ADDED BELOW:




WILWOOD SINGLE REMOTE RESERVOIR MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-10371 - 2ND PIC ADDED BELOW:





WILWOOD PEDAL ASSY - P/N 340-1290 - 3RD PIC ADDED BELOW:





*** Important - Its best you take a look at the pedal assy and how its built, i show two handle options because you would have to cut/notch out the top of the wilwood pedal assy in order for the pic of the handle on the right to work versus the pic on the left.

pic of handle on the LEFT is a handle with two arms coming forward so you wont have to cut the pedal assy.

4th pic shows the remote mounts and the dimension of tanks and master cylinder body - I like this one because its very small!!!

OH YEAH.:
WILWOOD SINGLE REMOTE RESERVOIR MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-10371 ONLY COST $81 BUCKS with both reservoirs and remote mounts and all.

-J
Attached Thumbnails Hydro E-Brake-diagram2.jpg   Hydro E-Brake-wilwood-single-resv2.jpg   Hydro E-Brake-wilwood-single-resv-with-handle.jpg   Hydro E-Brake-wilwood-single-resv3.jpg   Hydro E-Brake-rear-brake-lines.jpg  


Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jan 14, 2009 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 05:15 AM
  #29  
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Default PEDAL ASSEMBLY:

PEDAL ASSY:
Now if you look at the picture of the pedal assembly you can see that it provides a 7 to 1 ratio. - thats used as a foot pedal and obviously you have more strength in your legs.

So, you would need more like a 9 to 1 ratio for a handle activated use. that being said the easiest thing to do is to beat the 12.65 inches shown in the pic and increase it to about 16 inch long handle - 8 ball and all and you should be okay!

OR.:

you can eliminate the purchasing the pedal assy and make your own mount and pivot with a longer throw to gain a higher 9 to 1 ratio.

MOUNTING:
You can mount where ever you like, you can do off the side of the tranny tunnel like the one pictured in post 12, either passenger or drivers side.

I think i would like to cut straight into the center console and mount.
-J
Attached Thumbnails Hydro E-Brake-wilwood-pedal-assy2.jpg  

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Nov 24, 2008 at 06:33 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:19 PM
  #30  
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I just added this pic to above post. taken from courtesy parts dot com parts fish online.

It would be nice to have a fitting to replace the "to engine bay fitting" (46313) with one we can splice into...might be a better option to replace that guy with two "Y" fittings.
-J
Attached Thumbnails Hydro E-Brake-rear-brake-lines2.jpg  

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jan 15, 2009 at 07:49 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #31  
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Outstanding
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:01 AM
  #32  
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Nackers did exactly what you need here:
https://my350z.com/forum/7339286-post9.html

Remove the passenger wheel well liner and access the existing fitting:

here:


Then go to nackers blog, you can see the rest of how he connected it...
he did this:

Notice here how at 46313 connection he used the Tee fittings im talking about to merge to one line into your Ksport and one line back to the 46313 bottom two lines with another tee:


He (Nackers) however bought adapters and a hardline flare tool because he didnt have the proper metric fittings.


To make it easier, purchase from autozone "asian" hardlines with preinstalled M10x1.0 fittings and then purchase M10x1.0 tee fittings online.

Hint: The bottom left passenger rear of a Nissan 240 has a tee fitting that anyone can get at a local junk yard easy thats M10x1.0

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Nov 12, 2010 at 04:05 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 09:26 PM
  #33  
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coolness
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 02:28 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Hi,

okay, here's another option. easier way to do this. It only required one more "T" or "Y" fitting.

MOST IMPORTANTLY - THIS SINGLE MASTER CYLINDER USES A SMALLER 5/8 BORE OVER THE ONE ABOVE WITH A 1 INCH BORE -

SOooo.: That means it will be easier to pull back and not require as long of a handle.

by my calculations you would need at least a 16 inch handle - 8 ball and all...lol

-J

DIAGRAM #2 - 1ST PIC ADDED BELOW:




WILWOOD SINGLE REMOTE RESERVOIR MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-10371 - 2ND PIC ADDED BELOW:





WILWOOD PEDAL ASSY - P/N 340-1290 - 3RD PIC ADDED BELOW:





*** Important - Its best you take a look at the pedal assy and how its built, i show two handle options because you would have to cut/notch out the top of the wilwood pedal assy in order for the pic of the handle on the right to work versus the pic on the left.

pic of handle on the LEFT is a handle with two arms coming forward so you wont have to cut the pedal assy.

4th pic shows the remote mounts and the dimension of tanks and master cylinder body - I like this one because its very small!!!

OH YEAH.:
WILWOOD SINGLE REMOTE RESERVOIR MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-10371 ONLY COST $81 BUCKS with both reservoirs and remote mounts and all.

-J
Have you tried this yet did it work?
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #35  
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Yeah I did it the same way Nackers did... Mounted mine here

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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #36  
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I know the ksport way works while losing your abs... but I'd like to know if jason's way has been tried keeping abs
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 10:01 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by nismo_ninja
I know the ksport way works while losing your abs... but I'd like to know if jason's way has been tried keeping abs
yes it has, people have pm'd me on having it done, etc......I never did it, cause im working on a completely separate unit doing dual rear calipers....

Im doing this:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...rs-ebrake.html

I answered you here also:
https://my350z.com/forum/8962379-post114.html

-J
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #38  
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Royal- Does it not get annoying having to work around the handle when trying to use accessories on your dash, like the CD player and temp?
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #39  
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Nah not at all,,, shoot you could un-screw the handle and have free space when you are driving around the street and just screw it back on when you hit the track..
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #40  
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Ok so I'm having lines made for me to install this are the m10x1.0 line ends standard flare or a bubble flare
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