fLUIDAMPR
#22
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Originally Posted by Resolute
This has nothing to do with the crank being balanced. Its a damper, not a balancer. You're crank is balnced so that it rotates smoothly wihtout extra mass on one side or the other to cause it to "wobble" while rotating. The engine still applies power in surges though. Every time a power stroke occurs is when your torque is made around the crank, and this process is not smooth over the course of the engine cycle. It comes in surges for every individual cylinder and this occurs at set intervals. This is a frequency, and this damper is designed to offset the frequencies of each individual power stroke from hitting the natural frequency of the steel used to make the crank. Using this will increase longevity and smoothness rather than make power. For a stock or mildly modified engine I wouldn't bother, but for high rpm use like Z350 Lover's 8000rpm screamer, I would think it to be a neccessity.
Will
Will
as will said, power is delivered in pulses, these pulses tend to try and torque bend the crank, the harmonic balancer is designed to dampen these pulses to help slow the torque bend and change the frequency.
i would not say rpm is the reason to run one. it is the same theory someone would put dynamat on a panel to dampen sound transfer, to a point. the balancer is designed to help crank twist frequencies. the frequencies caused be the crank snapping back into shape again.
so basically, another twist on the same thing will said, lol.
#24
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Originally Posted by mchapman
Cool Richie, so you got it installed.
Where did you get it from?
Where did you get it from?
I got it from Summit Racing.... www.summitracing.com
cheers,
richie
#25
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im a little confused what does this part replace , does it avoid having to get ..lets say ur pulley kit , i know its a newb ? but its the first tthing i've heard of these things, cause i have some engine vibration when rps get lower in the 3-2k range
#28
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This part can be described as more of a safety/reliability enhancer rather than a power adder.
#29
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wow, i'm definitely bringing this one back from the dead! i finally installed it last week, just in time for raceday at buttonwillow.
anyway, here's a short review - it feels great! install was slightly more difficult than the UR because the Fluidampr is solid, no holes to put clamps or rope through to hold down while tightening. there are bolt holes, but i didn't have any bolts that would fit. so in order to get the crank bolt tightened down, i had to have someone hold down the brake really hard (while in 6th) while i tightened it 60 degrees (plus 36 ft-lbs).
during the install i also installed new belts. i did find that the alternator/ps belt was a little hard to get on. the diameter of the stock pulley and the fluidampr were the same. what i found surprising was that the fluidampr was actually about 0.5lb heavier than stock. i haven't had a chance to call fluidampr and ask about this, but i am sure it has something to do with the rotational "smoothness."
after the install, i turned it over a couple of times manually making sure there was no binding. after all was good, i started it and immediately i noticed a difference in the idle. it was much smoother than before. i did not get to test drive it however until track day. i was a little wary at first since the belts were brand new, but after a couple of warm up laps, i hammered it. even during the warm-up laps, i noticed how much smoother the engine felt throughout the rpm range. being a heavier pulley, i did not feel any increase in throttle response or power. i was not expecting it though since it is the same as the stock diameter and surprisingly a little heavier. however, i am very happy with it just with how much smoother the engine feels. i am sure it has added a few thousand miles to the life of the engine and maybe a few more track days (which was what i was looking for). i have seen a thread however which allowed an individual to boost about 3 more psi with a vortech supercharger and this damper. just thought i'd share...
anyway, here's a short review - it feels great! install was slightly more difficult than the UR because the Fluidampr is solid, no holes to put clamps or rope through to hold down while tightening. there are bolt holes, but i didn't have any bolts that would fit. so in order to get the crank bolt tightened down, i had to have someone hold down the brake really hard (while in 6th) while i tightened it 60 degrees (plus 36 ft-lbs).
during the install i also installed new belts. i did find that the alternator/ps belt was a little hard to get on. the diameter of the stock pulley and the fluidampr were the same. what i found surprising was that the fluidampr was actually about 0.5lb heavier than stock. i haven't had a chance to call fluidampr and ask about this, but i am sure it has something to do with the rotational "smoothness."
after the install, i turned it over a couple of times manually making sure there was no binding. after all was good, i started it and immediately i noticed a difference in the idle. it was much smoother than before. i did not get to test drive it however until track day. i was a little wary at first since the belts were brand new, but after a couple of warm up laps, i hammered it. even during the warm-up laps, i noticed how much smoother the engine felt throughout the rpm range. being a heavier pulley, i did not feel any increase in throttle response or power. i was not expecting it though since it is the same as the stock diameter and surprisingly a little heavier. however, i am very happy with it just with how much smoother the engine feels. i am sure it has added a few thousand miles to the life of the engine and maybe a few more track days (which was what i was looking for). i have seen a thread however which allowed an individual to boost about 3 more psi with a vortech supercharger and this damper. just thought i'd share...
#30
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At $350 it earns the distinguished Title of the most expensive pulley by ~twice!
My question is are these dampners supposed to absorb vibrations that would be harmful to the breaings or just the crank itself? Reason I ask is because if the rear cylinder fires the vibration would have to travel past every single bearing just to make it to the dampner. Is this a misconception? I could see it being used to keep vibrations from the accessories out of the engine.
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