Calling N/A Cars with TUNING or REFLASH and DATALOGS
#1
Calling N/A Cars with TUNING or REFLASH and DATALOGS
Whoever is tuned or reflashed N/A and has data logs (UTEC, EU, cipher, etc)
can I please see a chart of your ignition timing curves...?
It wouldn't hurt to see air/fuel ratios either. But I am really looking for timing charts.
I have tried searching and way too much crap comes up for me to be able to sift through all the posts.
Thanks
-Mike
Reason being, I'm trying to figure out what to do with my timing curve at WOT:
can I please see a chart of your ignition timing curves...?
It wouldn't hurt to see air/fuel ratios either. But I am really looking for timing charts.
I have tried searching and way too much crap comes up for me to be able to sift through all the posts.
Thanks
-Mike
Reason being, I'm trying to figure out what to do with my timing curve at WOT:
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 10-10-2006 at 10:33 AM.
#2
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Mike,
You have an 05' so the timing is already a little hotter than the 03's and 04's. What computer are you using to tune? I'd suggest increasing your timing in 1deg. increments and you should see the power increase slightly (this should be done on the dyno). When you increase another degree and the power either remains the same or drops, go back one degree and that is where it is optimum for your setup.
It has been my experience on the 05's that no more than +1 to +2deg. is needed for optimum performance.
Hope this helps,
You have an 05' so the timing is already a little hotter than the 03's and 04's. What computer are you using to tune? I'd suggest increasing your timing in 1deg. increments and you should see the power increase slightly (this should be done on the dyno). When you increase another degree and the power either remains the same or drops, go back one degree and that is where it is optimum for your setup.
It has been my experience on the 05's that no more than +1 to +2deg. is needed for optimum performance.
Hope this helps,
#3
Originally Posted by Mike@Altered
Mike,
You have an 05' so the timing is already a little hotter than the 03's and 04's. What computer are you using to tune? I'd suggest increasing your timing in 1deg. increments and you should see the power increase slightly (this should be done on the dyno). When you increase another degree and the power either remains the same or drops, go back one degree and that is where it is optimum for your setup.
It has been my experience on the 05's that no more than +1 to +2deg. is needed for optimum performance.
Hope this helps,
You have an 05' so the timing is already a little hotter than the 03's and 04's. What computer are you using to tune? I'd suggest increasing your timing in 1deg. increments and you should see the power increase slightly (this should be done on the dyno). When you increase another degree and the power either remains the same or drops, go back one degree and that is where it is optimum for your setup.
It has been my experience on the 05's that no more than +1 to +2deg. is needed for optimum performance.
Hope this helps,
Yes this helps.
I am using a greddy EU, which seems to be working great. Right now it's set to all Zero's for all maps.
My question is, you see how the timing curve increases, then decreases, then increases again?
Should it be a more gradual increase? I will be richening up the mixture to about 13 AFR up to 5000 rpm and 12.5 up to 6600 rpm.
I plan on ultimately doing the timing tune on the dyno, but I'm using cipher to tune the AFR on the street. I don't believe I will hurt anything by doing this, because I'm only going to ADD fuel, not cut... so there's no way I could see a lean condition.
Thanks, by the way Cipher kicks ***
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The Cipher does kick a@#!
If you want to get a few more ponies before the dyno you should not have a problem increasing the timing from 3500rpm on up a degree. Then, when you are on the dyno, you can add another degree and see how it reacts.
The timing chart you posted is normal.
If you want to get a few more ponies before the dyno you should not have a problem increasing the timing from 3500rpm on up a degree. Then, when you are on the dyno, you can add another degree and see how it reacts.
The timing chart you posted is normal.
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#9
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Hey Wired,
Here is pretty close to stock timing.
2500 23.4
2750 24.2
3000 25.3
3250 24.2
3500 24.3
3750 24.0
4000 24.0
4250 23.1
4500 21
4750 21
5000 23
5250 20.9
5500 20.7
5750 21.2
6000 21.8
6250 23.8
6500 26
6750 26.5
7000+ 27
I just have mine advanced 2 degrees the whole way up.
Hope this helps.
I might have some datalogs on my other laptop, need to dig them up.
Later
Aceman
Here is pretty close to stock timing.
2500 23.4
2750 24.2
3000 25.3
3250 24.2
3500 24.3
3750 24.0
4000 24.0
4250 23.1
4500 21
4750 21
5000 23
5250 20.9
5500 20.7
5750 21.2
6000 21.8
6250 23.8
6500 26
6750 26.5
7000+ 27
I just have mine advanced 2 degrees the whole way up.
Hope this helps.
I might have some datalogs on my other laptop, need to dig them up.
Later
Aceman
#11
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
Nice, thanks. I still don't get why stock timing increases, decreases, and increases again. Let me know if you figure it out
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